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When it comes to cultivating a thriving & happy home garden, there’s one easy practice we think everyone should try: cover cropping! It’s an easy technique that involves planting specific crops not for harvest, but to revitalise your garden soil. Cover crops (also known as green manure, green crops, or manure crops), are quick to grow, require very little maintenance, and improve soil structure & quality by replacing lost nutrients. Read on to learn about the benefits of cover crops, how to choose the right ones for your garden, and some simple steps you can follow to get started with cover crops in your garden. The Basics of Cover Crops Cover crops are typically planted during periods when the garden bed would otherwise be empty, such as after harvesting your main crops or during the ‘off’ season. Instead of leaving your soil bare, cover crops step in to protect and improve your soil. Once you’re done with your cover crops, they can be used as mulch and added back into the soil as valuable organic matter. The Benefits of Cover Crops Soil Enrichment: Cover crops act as natural fertilisers, enriching the soil with essential nutrients. Legumes, like clover and peas, even have the ability to fix nitrogen, providing an organic source of this vital nutrient for your plants. Weed Suppression: A well-established cover crop creates a living mulch that helps suppress weeds. By shading the soil, cover crops reduce the chances of weed germination. Erosion Prevention: The roots of cover crops help bind the soil together, preventing erosion. This is especially important in areas with heavy rainfall or sloping terrain. Pest Control: Some cover crops release natural compounds that can repel or inhibit the growth of certain pests. This can contribute to a healthier, more balanced garden ecosystem. Choosing the Right Cover Crops Selecting the right cover crops for your garden depends on various factors, including your location, climate, and specific needs in your garden (i.e. soil improvement or pest prevention). Here are a few popular cover crop varieties to consider: Legumes: Clover and peas are excellent choices for adding nitrogen into the soil, improving soil fertility, and attracting beneficial insects. Grasses: Annual grasses like rye and oats work well for suppressing weeds and adding organic matter to the soil. Brassicas: Plants like mustard and radishes have deep roots that help break up compacted soil while also providing pest-resistant qualities. Mixes: Plant a mix of cover crops to enjoy a combination of benefits. For example, a mix of clover and rye can provide both nitrogen fixation and weed suppression. You can buy cover crop seed mixes, or mix your own varieties depending on what your specific garden needs this season. Implementing Cover Crops in Your Garden When should I sow cover crops?Typically, cover crops are sown in late summer, or in autumn after harvesting your main crops. How do I sow cover crops?Spread the cover crop seeds evenly over the soil surface. Lightly rake or pat them into the soil to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. Maintaining your cover cropsOne of the best parts of cover cropping is the minimal maintenance required. Just keep an eye on your cover crops as they grow; if they become too tall or start flowering, mow or cut them down before they go to seed. Making way for your main cropsAbout 4-6 weeks before it's time to plant out your main crops again, chop down your cover crops and either dig/till them back into the soil or leave them as mulch. Make sure you chop them down while the stems are still soft and green. Giving the crops a few weeks to incorporate back into the soil before replanting is key! Cover cropping is a simple technique that can have a big impact. It’s a natural, easy, and affordable way to enhance soil fertility and contribute to a more sustainable and resilient garden ecosystem. So don’t leave any garden beds empty this “off” season, get some cover crops in to do the hard work for you! We have a pre-mixed Cover Crop blend available here. It has been created here in NZ to suit our environment, and contains a diverse seed mix that has been carefully selected for its nitrogen-fixing capabilities, robust defense against pests and diseases, and facilitation of organic matter breakdown.

IN THE EDIBLE GARDEN The last of the summer harvest! Tomatoes should be at their peak right now; other veggies such as beans, corn, carrots, cucumbers, melons, pumpkin, potatoes, eggplants & more will also be ready for harvesting. Regularly picking fruit and veg each day will encourage late fruiting & growth. Stone fruits (nectarines, peaches, plums) are ready to enjoy. Continue to plant lettuce and a variety of herbs. And it’s not too late to plant capsicum or eggplant, and plant or sow courgettes and corn in warmer areas! As we move further into February, start sowing your winter veg: spinach, cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, beetroot, kale, silverbeet, carrots, leeks, radish, rhubarb, parsnip etc.   IN THE FLOWER GARDEN Continue to deadhead your flowering annuals; this promotes more flowers for a longer period. For roses, continue to remove any diseased leaves and apply a rose fertiliser towards the end of the month. The end of February means summer is drawing to a close… But it also means we can cast our minds towards bulb planting! Early summer bulbs (tulips, daffodils, anemone, ranunculus etc.) will be arriving into garden stores. If you live in a warmer area it’s a good idea to pop your bulbs in the fridge for 4-8 weeks (depending on the variety) to chill before you plant them out. Some pre-chilling tips to keep in mind… > Keep your bulbs in the crisper drawer inside a paper bag (NOT plastic - the bulbs will sweat, causing rot). > Do not place them near the back of the fridge as it may be too cold. > Keep them well away from fruit, particularly apples and pears. These fruits emit a gas called ethylene as they ripen which can damage your bulbs. You can get your bulbs until late autumn; plant continuously throughout this time for continuous blooms in spring. Use a bulb planter for super efficient planting! For more in-depth bulb planting info, check out this blog: Planting spring-flowering bulbs in NZ OTHER TASKS THIS MONTH... > Keep pinching out those tomato laterals! This helps the plant direct it’s energy towards fruiting > Regularly mist the leaves of your indoor plants using a mister and some lukewarm water. Check the underside of leaves regularly; pests such as mealybugs are prolific at the moment! Spray with Enspray 99 as soon as you see the signs of an infestation.   > Make sure you're keeping on top of pests outside, too - check out our full range of Insect Pest Control to find a something that works for your garden.  > If you have excess fruit or veg harvests, get preserving! > Remove strawberry plants that are over two years old > Mulch! A good layer of mulch around the base of your plants conserves moisture in soil, and also suppresses weeds > Water in the morning or evening, making sure to water the roots (rather than the leaves). Check out our Iriso range for easy drip irrigation.   > Composting is key at the moment - make the most of the abundant organic material and warm temperatures! There's nothing better for improving your soil than fresh compost or worm castings. See our compost bin and worm farm ranges.

If you want to lift your meals to the next level, start growing your own herbs. Dried herbs may be convenient but they simply don’t compare to being able to use fresh herbs in your food for both flavour and texture. How to start your own herb garden? Choose some reasonable sized pots, around the size of a bucket is a good size to aim for. I know that social media pictures have them thriving in adorable little terracotta pots on your windowsill but reality will have them struggling in too small pots, in too much heat and probably not enough light! The other option is to choose a small area of garden that is convenient to your kitchen. But before you start planting, there are some things to consider. What do you and your family enjoy eating? That’s a good place to start! You can just plant a whole lot of herbs but it’s better to start with what you will definitely use. After you have a list of favourites, you need to look at the eventual size, growth habit and the conditions it prefers. Let's look at the main contenders... Starting with the ‘soft herbs’ that you generally eat fresh, added at the end of cooking: Parsley – flat leaf (or Italian) or curly. Technically a biennial –meaning it lasts about 2 years before setting seed and dying. Good in the sun but it does take up quite a bit of room so give it space to grow. Will grow in part or full sun. Coriander – people love it or hate it but it is an essential in many Asian style recipes. Coriander grows best in a spot protected from the hot midday summer sun. If left to bake in the sun and dry out it will run straight to seed. It grows really well in the mild temps of spring and autumn. It’s an annual so it’s here for a good time, not a long time! Basil – the herb that tastes like summer. It needs to be planted after the frosts and will grow happily in the sun as long as it is watered regularly. It needs to be replanted every year. Mint – essential for drinks and new potatoes! Let’s not tiptoe around this one. Mint is a thug. It spreads like wildfire underground and it doesn’t play well with others in a pot. Don’t plant it in the garden unless you want mint everywhere or you have a way of successfully containing it. Ideally give it a big pot with a saucer that keeps the roots from spreading out the bottom and that you can keep filled with water as it loves damp soil and put it in a shady spot. There are also a multitude of mint varieties and flavours but they all behave the same! Chives (or garlic chives) – one tastes of onion, the other of garlic. These guys are perennials, so in colder areas they will die back in winter and resprout in spring. You can divide the clump up eventually. Pretty purple flowers that are edible. Loves sun. Then we have the ‘woody herbs’ that you need to cook. Rosemary – the classic herb for roast veges and meat. This is a shrub so it needs a spot in the garden or its own big pot. There are some different varieties, some are ground covers, some are tall upright shrubs, and some are in between. If you use it a lot, the best one is an upright variety like Tuscan blue. Think Mediterranean conditions, such a very sunny spot and free draining soil. Thyme – many different varieties all tasting slightly different. Some are ground covers and some are upright. Excellent border plant as long as it gets plenty of sun and has good drainage. Origanum / Marjoram – I view these as interchangeable so in my opinion only one is needed. Marjoram grows as a tight ground cover, Origanum grows as a loose sprawling plant. They both love full sun and good drainage. Sage - an attractive plant with 3 main varieties with different leaf colours. It can grow quite large, but don’t get too attached, it can die without warning! Again, full sun and good drainage. I know there are many more options but start with these basics and collect others as you need or want to. The best thing you can do to keep herbs bushy, compact and healthy is to use them! Picking them is the same as trimming them so it encourages lots of bushy growth which gives you plenty of herbs to use! In the beginning when plants are small, you can get away with mixing the herbs together in pots (as long as they like the same conditions! ) But over time stronger plants will dominate others and you’ll lose some so if they are herbs that you use regularly, it’s worth putting them in their own pot and giving them room to thrive. If they are short lived such as basil, plant a few plants in one pot to ensure you have plenty to use. Planting in pots, use a good quality potting mix and don’t forget to add some slow release fertiliser every few months once the initial fertiliser runs out in the potting mix. Applying liquid fertiliser is a good option but remember to wash the herbs well before using! Many of the soft herbs freely self seed so you can leave them to spread around the garden by leaving the seed head on to complete its life cycle or remove the seeds to prevent that (as a bonus you can then dry the seeds for use in cooking!) Herbs are a great investment for your garden and your future meals! Stop buying those lanky supermarket ones that you use once and then they wither on the kitchen bench. Plant your own and have them available whenever you need that flavour hit in your food!    Written for Gubba by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

Everything. Actually. But I will make a disclaimer – that does depend on the type of mulch you use! They are not all created equal! We’ll get to that later in the blog though. Good mulch improves the quality of the soil, maintains soil moisture levels and helps to suppress weeds. It does take work as it needs to be renewed at least annually but the benefits definitely outweigh the negatives! With a hot dry summer forecast, in my view the best thing we can do for our garden is to ensure it has a thick layer of mulch spread all over it to help maintain that precious soil moisture and keep the plant roots cool which helps to make our plants more resilient to the stresses of drought. Applying mulch essentially mimics what happens in nature. Leaves and other plant material fall on the soil, creating a protective layer which breaks down over time and improves the soil. Soil that is left exposed to the elements is vulnerable to erosion from both wind and rainfall, soil moisture evaporates easily and plant roots are exposed to fluctuations in temperature. Weeds are also more likely to spring up and compete. None of these are helpful things. The usual mulch options have their pros and cons. Choose wisely! Bark - a favourite due to its natural look and the different grades and colours. It also has the benefit of eventually breaking down and improving the soil. Beware of using freshly chipped bark, the initial breaking down process actually draws nitrogen out of the soil, affecting your plants. Choose carefully and look for an already aged bark supply. If there are already perennial weeds in the garden before you lay the mulch, it is helpful to lay a layer of cardboard which will help to suppress the weeds from coming up and through the mulch. Bark is a convenient and economical option with bagged or bulk options freely available. Compost - You might think, isn’t that just soil? But no. Compost is green matter in its final stages of breaking down into Humus which is a super helpful type of organic matter to have in your soil. If you make your own compost, you have the benefit of controlling what goes into it. Ensure if you are buying it that you get it from a reputable source. Be wary of council collected green waste compost that can have noxious weeds or weed killer residues in it. Your soil will love you if you spread this around on a regular basis – even better if you make your own to use! Pea straw - Not always easy to get hold of in urban areas and not ideal for windy areas but if you have access and your spot is sheltered, it is an effective choice. Ensure that it is laid in a thick layer. Be aware that you may get pea seedlings popping up but these are easily removed. Pea straw absorbs water and holds it. Weed mat - it hit peak popularity when the stones and native grass ‘low maintenance’ gardens were popular in the late 90’s. Unfortunately, many people thought using black polythene was a cheaper and suitable substitute. Please don’t do this!!! Soil is a living organism so it needs to breathe and get food and water. Woven, permeable weed mat has its place in steep areas where mulch will just slide off or under stones for both weed suppression and water retention. But even if the soil can breathe and get rain water, it doesn’t get any organic matter to rebuild and refresh. This doesn’t leave the soil in the best condition over time. There are now more natural options available such as coir fibre (the fibre off the outside of a coconut) which holds soil moisture but will break down over time. This is a great option where new plants will eventually grow and cover the soil up but it just needs some cover in the short term. Stones - this is a decorative mulch rather than one that improves the soil. Ensure that you use a layer of permeable weed mat so the stones don’t work into the soil. Weeds will still drop into the stones but will pull out easily. The issue with stones is that they will absorb heat during the day and release it during the night. This can be a helpful thing for creating a microclimate for tender plants but it does also make a hot and dry spot, hotter and drier. Rainfall is more likely to evaporate off the rocks before it gets down to the soil. Choose its position carefully. Larger leaves are much easier to remove when they fall on the stones, rather than many small leaves that settle in amongst the stones. Commercial mulch products - These are the best of both worlds, combining food and protection for the soil. Expensive for large areas as you can usually only buy it as a bagged product. Convenient for getting home and moving around the garden because it is a bagged product. Can be used in large pots as well. Improves the soil as well as provides protection and retains moisture. A highly recommended option if the expense isn’t a barrier. Mulch, like the natural process it mimics, is best applied in several applications throughout the year, this gives the mulch a chance to breakdown before the next layer is laid. It is also vital that the soil is damp before the mulch is laid. As a general rule, the soil moisture level will stay the same after the mulch is laid, so thoroughly dampen or lay it after a decent rain. Apply it in spring or autumn when there is plenty of soil moisture and it will retain it throughout the drier months. In order for it to be truly effective, a thick layer of at least 5 cm is needed but ensure that you don’t bury the trunk or stem of the plants / trees. Keep the mulch back from touching it where possible. This helps avoid collar rot setting in and other issues that can keep a plant /tree from thriving. Help your plants stay happy and healthy and thrive through summer and save yourself time and money on watering! Mulch is a win-win situation.  Written for Gubba by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

There are many ways to feed your plants; the main thing to get right is to use the appropriate fertiliser for the results you want to achieve. In general, fertilisers are split into three categories: Organic based (animal manure, composted green waste, seaweed etc.), granular or compound (man made), and liquid fertiliser. Each has it's own pros and cons, so it's important to pick the right food for the right situation. Organic Based Improving your physical soil is always going to be a good thing - healthy soil = healthy plants. Organic based materials play a crucial role here. You're mimicking natures own process of improving the soil with plant debris, dead animals etc. breaking down into the soil. Organic matter breaks down to humus over time and humus improves soil fertility, holds on to nutrients, increases water holding capacity, improves soil structure and feeds soil organisms. Organic matter is better applied regularly in smaller amounts as it can be high in nitrogen - particularly animal manure. One thing to be aware of is organic matter generally needs to be aged. For example, fresh manure is very strong and can burn, and fresh bark chips actually take nitrogen from the soil to break down.   Granular or compound Granular or compound fertilisers are a helpful tool to help meet specific food requirements for growing plants. They have been formulated into tomato fertiliser or bulb fertiliser for example. They will have different NPK ratings stated on the packet which can direct your choice - we’ll talk more about these later in the blog. Within this category, granular fertiliser will release as soon as it comes into contact with water. Therefore it's important to follow guidelines for application as too much can burn delicate plant roots and get washed away. This is called leaching - where the fertiliser is washed away before the plant can use it, ending up in streams and rivers, contributing to pollution and wasting your money. Granular fertiliser is too strong to use in containers and will usually state it is not recommended on the packet. Compound or slow release fertiliser is a safer option in that it is formulated to release gradually over a stated time period, say 3 months, providing food ‘little and often’ so the plant can use it up and avoid leaching. It is also safe for use in pots. These man made fertilisers will feed the plant but will not improve your soil.   Liquid fertiliser Liquid fertiliser are a great tool to get nutrients into a plant quickly. Whether applied to the soil or directly over the leaves, plants will take it up as an instant boost. The downside is that while it is taken up quickly it is also used up quickly so you have to apply regularly, about every 2 weeks if that is the only way you are feeding. Also a safe option for plants in pots. If you are regularly adding organic materials to your garden, feeding with some man made fertiliser specific to what you are growing and supplementing with a liquid feed, you will have happy, healthy plants that produce well and flower well. What is NPK on my fertiliser bag and why is it important? NPK represent the 3 main micronutrients that plants require - Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) The numbers represent the percentages of these nutrients within the fertiliser. There will often be macronutrients and trace elements also added, depending on the plants requirements. Macro nutrients (sulphur, calcium, magnesium etc.) are crucial but generally in tiny amounts compared to the NPK. What do they do? Nitrogen The building block for growing new stems and leaves It helps to make leaves green and helps them photosynthesize Phosphate Root development It helps a plant convert nutrients into growth Aids in fruit and flower development Potash Helps fruit and flower development Helps plants resist drought and tolerate stress Encourages strong stems and well developed flowers Regulates plant growth so harvested fruit is fully formed, high quality and lasts longer It hardens up cell walls of soft, young growth It accelerates ripening, increasing flavour and sweetness It is vital to remember that plants need a combination of all of these nutrients, don’t just look at one as ‘most important’. You can have too much of a good thing so while you can apply nutrients separately, it is safest to apply a balanced fertiliser that has been formulated to tick all the boxes. What to choose? Look at what you are growing, what you want to achieve, and whether it's growing in a container or pot. If you’re growing in the garden, you can use any options. If you are in a pot, you need to look at a slow release or a liquid option. If you want lots of flowers, rose fertiliser is a good option. If you are growing fruit, there are specific citrus and berry fruit formulations and if you are growing a lot of each, it’s worthwhile having them but you can get by using a general fruit fertiliser. With vegetables, it depends on what you’re growing - green leafy veges need mainly nitrogen but veges like cauliflower and broccoli are actually a flower head and need some potassium in the soil. Using a crop rotation system is a helpful way to manage the nutrient use by the plants, see last months blog for more info. Feeding is incredibly important for growing a strong healthy garden. Be strategic and work at improving your soil over time with organic matter, using man made options to target nutrients when needed. Written for Gubba by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

The physical prep work is done! Hopefully, if you've read our blogs on crop rotation and successional planting, you'll be inspired to do some planning before you start planting. Plan out the plants you want to grow, where you will plant them in your garden, when to plant them so they will be ready when you want them, if there is preserving you want to do, and how many plants you need to get your necessary harvest.  Before you set foot in a garden centre, I highly recommend that you have the list of plant varieties and numbers you need in your hand and stick to it! I say this because when you are surrounded by all sorts of different seedlings and varieties, it's very easy to get carried away and over enthusiastic and end up with a trolley of plants you do not have space for or were not planning to grow. The same has to be said for scrolling through seed catalogues. The gardeners equivalent of a candy store!  It’s a really good idea to check out the maturity times for the vegetables that you want to plant. Particularly if you are planting from seed or if you want a specific crop ready at a specific time. New potatoes ready for Christmas dinner is a good example. The fastest waxy potatoes take approx. 70 days, the slower growers 90-100 days. Check the variety you want to grow and plan backwards from your date. Allow a few extra weeks to allow for unforeseen circumstances. Waiting for Labour weekend to plant spuds for Christmas dinner leaves no margin for error!  If you are planting from seed you need to allow for a few more weeks before you can plant out. You have more flexibility in how many you sow at a time (which is great for successional planting) but you need to allow for losses. You can start earlier if you are starting your seeds inside or in a glasshouse which is a bonus.  The main cause of drama when planting your summer garden, is the timing of when you can start to get your plants in the ground. At the first sign of sunshine in August some people are in to buy their tomatoes and other tender veges to get them planted. In warmer, temperate areas that is a safe option but in most areas of NZ, the soil is still too cold and there is too much of a risk of frost and cold, windy weather. Planting outside too early generally means being very careful and intentional about covering plants up at any sign of bad weather or more commonly, a repeat trip to the garden centre for replacement seedlings.  Labour weekend has for a long time been the time to get your vege garden planted. The risk of frost is then minimal, soil and overnight temperatures are much warmer and there are longer daylight hours to get out in the garden to plant and tend to it. On the topic of successional planting again, it’s a good plan to avoid planting everything at Labour weekend. Plant some seedlings and then wait 2 or 3 weeks and plant some more so you can have a consistent supply of vegetables coming ready throughout summer. You can keep planting every few weeks up until the start of Autumn with some of the faster growing plant varieties.  A few tips when planting out your garden...  When buying seedlings or sowing seeds, it's always a good idea to ‘harden off’ your seedlings. If seedlings have been inside or in a warm, sheltered spot, they can be very soft and not able to withstand wind and colder temperatures. Put them outside in a semi sheltered spot during the day for a few days for their outer layer to harden up before planting them out.  Stake tall growing plants such as tomatoes and support climbers such as peas and beans so you avoid plants snapping or plants sprawling over other plants. You can also make the most of vertical spaces and climb cucumbers, pumpkins and melons vertically over archways or up support panels.  When planting seeds, the general rule is to sow them at double the diameter of the seed, deep. It also pays to cover with netting as birds love to pull out young seedlings.  Thinning your plants is well worth the effort to get good results for your harvest.  Root crops are always best to sow directly into the ground where you will grow them. They tend to grow wonky if they are transplanted.  It can be very tempting to try different and unusual varieties, and it is great to try new things, but for the majority of your plants, stick to your tried and true varieties and just introduce a few new ones to test out each year before you commit to a large harvest that you might not like the flavour or texture of.  If you are impatient or kids are helping with the gardening, the smaller varieties will be ready to harvest much sooner. Cherry tomatoes and lunchbox or bullhorn peppers instead of regular tomatoes and capsicums are good examples of these. They are also good to snack on when out in the garden!  Be prepared to protect your plants in the event of unseasonal cold, windy or very wet weather. It doesn’t have to be pretty - just protective!  Don’t forget to follow a crop rotation - read this blog for more details.  Written for Gubba by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

You may have heard the term “no-dig gardening” being bandied about recently. Also known as “no-till” or “lasagne” gardening, this method is certainly becoming popular among garden enthusiasts and even farmers around the globe - and we can understand why. No-dig gardening is rooted in ecological principles and sustainable practices; but it also offers a host of practical benefits to the gardener, from less groundwork & maintenance, to healthier soil and reduced weed growth. If you’re curious about this method, and perhaps want to give it a go in your own garden, this guide is for you.What is it?As the name suggests, no-dig gardening involves growing plants without disturbing the existing soil structure. No digging or tilling required! Once you’ve set up your no-dig garden bed it can be left undisturbed (aside from planting new seeds & plants, and topping up the surface with mulch as it breaks down over time). Unlike traditional gardening methods that require turning the soil, no-dig gardening focuses on creating and nurturing healthy, biodiverse soil ecosystems through the layering of organic matter. This method mimics nature's way of composting, allowing the soil to develop naturally and sustainably.A few key benefits of no-dig gardening include…Enhanced Soil Health: Leaving your soil undisturbed allows beneficial soil organisms to thrive. Healthy soil structure creates the foundation for good microorganism and earthworm activity. The subsequent improved nutrient cycling and better water retention = more robust and productive plants.Reduced Weed Growth: By layering organic mulch or compost on top of the soil, no-dig gardening suppresses weed growth.Natural aeration & drainage: Microbes, earthworms & other beneficial bugs create tunnels in your soil, resulting in better aeration and drainage. Biodiversity: A more balanced ecosystem within your soil attracts beneficial insects and wildlife. This in turn helps control pests and diseases, reducing the need for chemical interventions.Slower nutrient release: As organic matter in your soil breaks down, essential nutrients are released to your plants. Digging into your soil increases the speed these nutrients are released. The no-dig method allows nutrients to be released naturally at a slower, steadier rate, which is better for plant growth.Sustainability: No-dig gardening reduces soil erosion, and increased water retention allows you to conserve water.All of this results in less manual intervention from you, and better plant growth, health & productivity.Get started with no-dig gardening Choose a sunny site (at least 6 hours of sunlight per day). Avoid areas prone to waterlogging or heavy shade. You can create your no-dig garden bed over grass, dirt, or even concrete. You can also use a raised bed or container. You’ll need to gather a range of organic materials: compost, straw, leaves, grass clippings, newspaper, twigs & branches, woodchips, aged manure, seaweed, coffee grounds, etc. You can use store-bought compost, but as always we recommend home-made compost if you have it, as it contains a broader range of nutrients. Clear any existing weeds or vegetation in your chosen area. If you’re creating your garden bed over lawn or dirt, use a thick layer of cardboard or several layers of newspaper to smother grass and weeds. Remember to wet it down with water before layering on your organic material in the next step. Spread a 10-15 cm layer of compost, well-rotted manure or wood chips over the cardboard / newspaper base. Top this with alternating layers of your organic matter - straw, leaves, grass clippings, more compost etc. (You can see why it’s also called the ‘lasagne’ method!). Water each layer as you build to encourage decomposition and settling. Top your no-dig garden bed with a generous layer of compost, and plant in your seeds / seedlings. Finish with some pea straw mulch around your plants. Over time, the layers in your garden bed will gradually break down and create a nutrient-rich growing medium. As this happens, you’ll notice the height will start to drop - keep it topped up with alternating layers of organic matter to keep the process going. Tips for maintaining Your no-dig garden Mulch, mulch, and more mulch! Mulching is going to replace digging. This is the key to successful no-dig gardening, and is how you enrich soil, suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Regularly add layers of mulch, including leaf litter, wood chips, straw, grass clippings and compost. Keep mulch pulled back from plant stems, especially seedlings. Rotate your crops each season to prevent nutrient depletion, and minimise the risk of disease and pests building up in the soil. Don’t overwater your garden. As your soil will retain more moisture, you won’t need to water as often - overwatering could cause the soil to compact down. Continue composting kitchen scraps and garden waste to maintain a steady supply of compost for your no-dig garden. Your organic waste is such a valuable resource - don’t throw it out, compost it yourself to make the most of all those nutrients! Images:Image1 by woodleywonderworks (licensed under CC BY 2.0.)Image 2 & 3 by Samuel Mann (licensed under CC BY 2.0.)Image 3 by hardworkinghippy : La Ferme de Sourrou (licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0.)

Growing your own fruit is such a pleasure. The flavour and texture of sun ripened fruit, picked at peak ripeness and eaten within a few days just cannot be beaten. The flavour of supermarket purchased fruit simply does not compare.Eating home grown fruit brings us back in touch with the seasons too. We are so used to being able to get what we want when we want it, we don’t stop to think about the cost of transporting fruit around the world. We start to think that fruit that was picked unripe and shipped or flown chilled from a distant country, treated with sprays to prevent pests and diseases coming into our country, to be transported around the country in trucks and finally arriving in the supermarket, mealy textured and bland flavoured is the best it can be. No. It’s not! Local fruit in season and picked at its peak and enjoyed quickly is the way nature intended it.There are plenty of options available for you to grow your own fruit. A small section or even a balcony is not a problem, as long as it gets a good amount of sun. If you live in a part of NZ with a cooler climate, this will restrict your choices but won’t stop you.What are the options available?Citrus family – excellent source of fruit, particularly in autumn and winter when options are few. They are excellent options for a pot or in the ground. All of them are frost tender when young but many will harden with age so they can tolerate a reasonable frost. Even so, citrus are generally restricted to glass house growing in the southern regions of NZ. Lemons, mandarins, oranges, limes, grapefruit, tangelo... the list goes on.Stone fruit – the summer fruit we look forward to with anticipation every year. Peaches, plums, apricots, nectarines, cherries. Many of these need a number of chilling hours below a certain temperature and then a long hot summer but there are options available that have a low chill requirement.Pip fruit – the fruit bowl stalwarts – Apples and pears, and the less common Quince and Nashi. Berry fruit – The delicate soft fruits we pay a fortune for every Christmas time and we have frozen in the freezer year-round. The pay back on one of these plants is pretty short once they kick into fruit production. They are fragile to handle and have a short shelf life which explains their hefty price tag. Raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, currants, grapes and more.Sub-tropical fruit – these are definitely restricted by climate, being frost tender but well worth the effort if you can grow them at your place. Passionfruit, Avocado, Tamarillo, Feijoa and more.You can always try planting in a warm microclimate; on a north facing wall, under the eaves and covered with frost cloth if you are really keen but your winters are colder. Or make use of a glass house if you have one.Where to plant?Any fruiting plant needs ideally full day sun. Half day of afternoon sun will do in a worst-case scenario but the number of fruit produced will be reduced. Soil needs to be well drained with plenty of organic matter such as compost. If you have sandy soil, a generous amount of organic matter mixed into the hole and regular -at least annual- application as a mulch surrounding the tree will help improve the nutrient value within the soil and the water holding capacity.If you have heavy clay soil or a clay pan layer, the same applies. In this case organic matter helps the tiny clay particles clump together creating more spaces for air and water to move through the soil.In the case of a clay pan layer, I would definitely recommend planting the tree up on a raised soil mound to help keep the main roots above where water will collect on top of the pan layer. Alternatively, you can look at your options for planting in pots.In any garden situation – adding organic matter regularly will help improve your soil condition.You might think in the small sections that are so common these days, there is no room for fruit trees. Think again! You have a few options available to you.If you have some limited garden beds available to you, there is quite a reasonable range of naturally smaller growing fruit trees that lend themselves to small spaces. Apple Croquella, a naturally topiary shaped tree, Apple Crimson Spire, a columnar growing tree that is very narrow and upright in form or Peach Pix-zee, a dwarf Peach on a 60cm standard trunk are some options for you to look into.Growing in pots is a great option with plenty of choices for colours, shapes and finishes. Where garden spaces are limited, pots increase where you can grow. There are compact varieties of fruit trees, and some traditional varieties are available grown on dwarf rootstocks which are better suited to container growing. When choosing a pot, bigger is better. A 40 or 50L (big enough to hold a big bag of potting mix) pot is a practical choice avoiding the need to pot on to a bigger size in the near future. During the warmer months you may need to water every day. A smaller pot will dry out faster.When planting a fruit tree in a pot you can add up to a quarter of the overall amount of compost to the premium potting mix in order to help improve water retention. This is better for the tree and helps save you time.Root restriction bags are relatively new on the market. Available in different sizes, these specially designed bags create a fibrous root ball rather than the traditional widespread root ball and it helps to dwarf the trees' growth and prevent any damage by roots to buildings or infrastructure. These bags also have the bonus of enabling you to safely dig the tree up and relocate it if you move. Excellent news for renters!If space is limited, look at your vertical spaces. Is there a sturdy wall or fence in a sunny position that you can espalier a tree against? This art of training the trees to grow horizontally or in a fan shape has been practiced for centuries. It not only looks great but is a very efficient way to grow fruit.If you are wondering when to plant fruit trees, most garden centres will get their new seasons open ground grown trees in winter when the trees are dormant and can safely be lifted, bagged and transported. Container grown trees are becoming more available in autumn which tend to be smaller and easier to get home. Ideally anytime that isn’t during the heat of summer is fine for planting.It’s worth doing some research first before you buy a tree or plant. Ensure the intended position gets enough sun, improve the soil if you need to and ensure you have enough space for the tree or plant to grow to its potential size. Some fruit trees need a little more care than others in the form of a spray program to keep pests and diseases under control. If you aren’t prepared to do that, look for varieties of fruit that have a higher natural resistance to pests and diseases. If you are interested in growing your own fruit, I highly recommend that you go into your local garden centre and have a chat with a knowledgeable staff member who can start you on your journey to delicious, sun-ripened home-grown fruit.By Kelly Jean Reylandwww.gardenadvice.co.nz

Autumn means it’s time to get those spring-flowering bulbs in the ground! We’re already anticipating those beautiful spring & summer blooms. If you’re new to bulb growing, or still wondering what to plant this year, read on for some bulb planting tips & inspiration.Which bulbs should I choose?There are plenty of spring flowering bulbs to choose from; here are some popular varieties grown here in NZ:Crocus [early bloom]This hardy flower does well in colder regions, but can be grown successfully all across the country. Crocus are early bloomers, providing some welcome colour from late winter to early spring. Plant them somewhere with full sun if possible (although they will also tolerate partial shade), and ensure they are in an area with well-draining soil. These bulbs multiply quickly, meaning you’ll have more and more each year.Ranunculus [mid bloom]Technically a corm (not a bulb), this colourful flower can be planted from as early as mid-January, all the way until mid-May. Planting early will result in flowers from mid to late winter, while planting later will produce flowers from mid spring. Plant them in either full sun or partial shade, and ensure soil is well-draining. Ranunculus will also grow well in pots or containers.Tulip [early bloom]Possibly one of the most well-known & loved spring bulbs, these bright, colourful flowers are a welcome sight when they bloom in spring. They are quite a hardy plant and can be grown across NZ; however, if you live in a warmer region you’ll need to “chill” your tulip bulbs in the fridge for 6-8 weeks before planting. Place them in the fridge around late March, ready for planting in late May. They can be grown in either full sun or partial shade, and like good well-draining soil.Bluebell (Scilla) [late bloom]The two most common bluebell varieties are English Bluebells and Spanish Bluebells. Here in NZ, our climate is more suited to Spanish Bluebells - hence this is the most common variety you’ll see around. These are one of the easiest bulbs to grow, and will multiply quite quickly once you get them started. Plant in autumn to enjoy flowers throughout spring & summer. Bluebells like partial shade, making them great flowers to position beneath trees. Daffodil [early - mid bloom]This iconic yellow flower provides some welcome spring cheer! You can’t go too wrong with daffodils; plant these easy bulbs between mid-March and late May to enjoy flowers throughout spring. Daffodils like full to partial sun, and need good well-draining soil. They’ll also grow happily in containers or pots. There are so many varieties to choose from these days when it comes to both colour and bloom time, making them a great choice when considering succession planting!Hyacinth [mid bloom]This lovely bloom is known for its sweet, fragrant scent. This is a bulb that needs a decent period of cold to bloom properly - if you live in an area with warmer winters, you will need to chill hyacinth bulbs in the fridge for about 6 weeks prior to planting. Plant your hyacinth bulbs from early March right through to the end of May for spring blooms. Choose a well-draining spot in full sun. Remember to wear gloves when handling hyacinth bulbs! They are toxic and could cause irritation to the skin.Chilling your bulbsMost spring-flowering bulbs need consistent cool temperatures (below 10°C during the day) in order to produce a flower bud. This period of dormancy over winter is essential for them to complete their development. Come spring-time, rising temperatures signal to the plant that it’s time to bloom! This means in areas with warmer winters (most of the North Island here in NZ), certain bulbs will need a bit of help; particularly bulbs that are native to cooler regions such as hyacinths and tulips. You can do this by popping them in the fridge for a period of time before planting - what gardeners call “pre-chilling” their bulbs.The length of time you need to chill each type of bulb will vary, but usually around 8 weeks is sufficient. If you live in an area that doesn’t see many frosts, you should pre-chill your Daffodil, Tulip, Crocus and Hyacinth bulbs.If your bulbs don’t have a sufficient chilling period (whether that be naturally in the ground over winter, or in the fridge before planting), you’re likely to see plants with stunted growth and small flowers.Some pre-chilling tips to keep in mind… Keep your bulbs in the crisper drawer inside a paper bag (NOT plastic - the bulbs will sweat, causing rot). Do not place them near the back of the fridge as it may be too cold. Keep them well away from fruit, particularly apples and pears. These fruits emit a gas called ethylene as they ripen which can damage your bulbs. Planting your bulbsIdeal planting depth depends on the type of bulb. The packaging your bulbs come in should provide specific details. However, you can use this general rule of thumb: plant the bulb 2-3 times the height of the bulb. For example, if your bulb is 2cm tall you should plant it about 4-6cm deep. And if in doubt, too deep is generally better than too shallow!It’s also important to plant your bulbs the right way up - with the pointed end facing upwards towards the sky. You’ll be able to identify the pointed end easily with ‘true’ bulbs such as daffodils and tulips, however it can be a bit harder with bulbs such as ranunculus or anemone. Plant these bulbs on their sides - they’ll grow towards the light and straighten out themselves. Prepare your soil for planting by loosening it up and mixing in some bulb food (such as the Tui Bulb Food) and compost. Spring-flowering bulbs like well-draining, loamy soils. When planting, you can use a bulb planter to save time and avoid bending - a game changer when you’re planting out lots! We recommend the Sneeboer Stainless Bulb Planter or Sneeboer Great Dixter Bulb Planter. Feed with bulb food again when stems start appearing, and then again when flowering starts. Succession & Stagger PlantingTo enjoy continuous flowering throughout spring and summer, make sure you’re planting an assortment of bulbs: you want your garden to be made up of early blooms, mid blooms and late blooms. Succession planting is essentially choosing bulbs that bloom at different times. The packaging of your bulbs should give you the relevant details for the specific variety you have. Don’t forget to take bloom time & height into consideration when planning your garden, too! You can get really creative - with some pre-planning, you’ll enjoy a colourful garden all season long.Stagger planting is another way to enjoy your flowers for longer. Simply plant your bulbs (of the same variety) in groupings two weeks apart, for a period of 6-8 weeks. This way your bulbs should bloom at staggered times throughout the season.