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Garlic is one of the most rewarding crops you can grow in a New Zealand garden. It's easy, relatively pest-free, stores well, and a single clove planted in autumn returns a full, flavoursome bulb by summer. Whether you have a large vege patch or a few pots on a balcony, garlic earns its place.

A guide for understanding your options and discovering the most effective soil mixes and amendments for your garden. It's winter, when the trees are stripped bare and the flowers have long since set seed and drifted on the wind, that we become most aware of the earth beneath our gardens.  Soil is often overlooked — sometimes considered a bit boring and, at this time of the year, muddy and messy. But, it is where life begins.  Soil is the living, breathing heart of the garden — without it, there is no garden. And so, at this time of year, when the layers of the land are peeled back, it becomes the perfect moment to look more closely at what lies beneath. For many home gardeners, winter is a season of enriching existing beds and also of starting fresh. Lawns can be transformed into borders, raised beds are built and pots are filled in readiness for spring.  With each new project comes a need for soil, and often a trip to the garden centre, where shelves brim with bags of compost, mulch and amendments — each promising something different.  The choice can be overwhelming. In this article, we’ll look at how to make sense of these options and explore the best soil mixes and amendments for the best results to improve the soil health and structure in your garden. Compost — what is it? The foundation of any good garden begins with compost. Whether you’re starting a new garden or converting lawn into beds, compost is the one amendment that benefits every soil type.  Nutrient-dense and rich in organic matter, compost sometimes resembles soil, but it isn’t soil. It’s the by-product of decomposed organic materials and plays a crucial role in feeding plants and improving soil structure. There are different types of compost available to buy, or ways to make your own compost pile! Bagged or bulk compost that is available from the garden centre or landscaping stores are usually made from materials like green waste, animal manures, bark, sawdust and fungi. Premium products can also include additional amendments like certified organic plant materials or gypsum. Mushroom compost is the spent substrate used to farm mushrooms. Once the mushrooms are harvested, the growing medium is collected and sufficiently aged until it can be bagged up and sold to gardeners. It usually contains a combination of straw, hay and chicken manure. It tends to be more alkaline so it could be a good option for gardens with acidic soil (rather than alkaline soils). How to use compost Compost is very dense and rich. Therefore, it should never be used on its own as a potting mix, for raising seedlings or for containers. The correct way to use compost is as an amendment, mixed into existing soil or together with other ingredients. When creating a new garden, you can mix compost through your native soil and it will help to improve the soil structure. If you have clay soil, the compost can help to break up the clay and improve drainage. If you have sandy soil, then the compost will add organic matter and improve moisture retention. Use this ratio as a guide for how much compost to use: 10cm of compost mixed through the top 20-30cm of surface soil for a new garden bed. Garden mix — what is it? If you are building a new raised bed this winter and need to fill it, then garden mix is the right soil for your needs.  Bagged garden mix is made up of topsoil + compost (and can include grit — sand or pumice — depending on the brand). There can also be added ingredients such as bark to improve water retention and synthetic fertilisers, or just natural nutrients in the form of manure. It’s important to check with your local landscaping supplies store what their “garden mix” contains. Some suppliers label compost as “garden mix,” which means you may need to purchase both topsoil and compost separately to create the right blend for filling raised beds or bottomless containers. In the following years, you can simply top up the bed with compost, as the organic matter will continue to break down over time.  For healthy plant growth, aim for a balanced mix of topsoil and compost — remember compost is too dense for plants to grow in alone, and this combination provides both structure and nutrients. How to use garden mix Garden mix is ideal for bottomless containers, raised beds or slightly raised garden edges — anywhere you’re creating a contained space for plants to thrive.  Specialty mixes such as Vegetable Mix, Citrus Mix, Bulb Mix etc. can be used in conjunction with Garden Mix as these have specific NPK ratios (fertiliser) to cater for their intended use. To calculate how much garden mix you need, measure the length x width x depth of the raised bed / container to work out the total cubic m2. For example, a 1m x 1m raised vegetable garden will require 7x bags of 40L Garden Mix and 7x bags of 40L Vegetable Mix to fill the area. Potting mix — what is it? Potting mix is a blend made for pots that have a base and drainage holes. It has special additives that sometimes include peat, bark, coco fibers, pumice, sand and wetting agents. There are also slow-release fertilisers that provide nutrients to the plant for a period of up to six months. How to use potting mix Potting mix is designed to be incredibly aerated and free draining. Do not use it in a garden or raised bed as it does not have the capacity to hold nutrients for a long duration of time. Best used for houseplants and outdoors pots or raising seedlings.  You will notice that potting mix generally has a life span of 3-6 months (depending on the brand). After this time, you will have to replace the tired potting mix altogether or ‘revive’ by adding in worm castings or compost. The best soil amendments Garden soil amendments are ingredients you can add to your soil to improve its structure, essential nutrients or moisture retention. These are especially helpful when dealing with more challenging soil types like clay or sand. For clay soils — This soil type is nutrient packed and has the ability to hold a lot of moisture which is however suffers from soil compaction. You need to loosen the compaction first in order to access those beneficial nutrients. Use gypsum to do this, which is a naturally occurring mineral containing calcium that helps to break up heavy clay soils and improve drainage. (It’s what GIB plasterboard is made from!) Lime is another amendment that can be added to clay soils to help bind the particles together, which improves the structure and drainage.  Both these amendments encourage worm activity which also helps to increase and break down organic matter. For sandy soils — This soil type is difficult to work with as it is incredibly free draining and does not hold a lot of nutrients. It requires a lot of organic matter to build moisture retention within the soil. Animal manures, like well-rotted horse, sheep, chicken or cow manure in particular, are extremely beneficial due to their high organic matter content. Aged manure is best, as opposed to fresh manure. Mulch is hugely important for sandy soil. It helps to lock in that moisture and also prevent erosion.  Choose an organic rich mulch, like aged wood chips or a thick chunky leaf mold mixed with decomposed seaweed.  Stay away from anything too fine, like pea straw or dry leaves as these are too light and will allow moisture to evaporate. It is in winter, when the soil is exposed, that we’re given the chance to reconnect with the foundations of our growing spaces. By understanding our soil and choosing the right blends for our garden’s needs, it’s the best time to lay the foundation for healthy plants and abundant growth in the seasons to come. Whether you’re filling a new raised bed, amending tired ground or refreshing your pots, every garden begins with healthy soil. ________________________________________________ The Sage Journal Winter Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.

Winter might feel like a sleepy time in the garden, but it’s actually the perfect season to focus on your soil. With the summer rush behind us, there’s time to slow down, take stock, and give your soil the love it needs to bounce into spring full of life. In this guide, Sally Shaw from Gubba shares practical tips to help you understand your soil and boost its health with simple, natural inputs. First things first: soil is not just dirt “To be a successful farmer one must first know the nature of the soil.” – Xenophon, c. 430 BC Soil is alive. It’s teeming with microbes, rich with organic matter, and absolutely central to how well your garden grows. Whether you’re chasing bigger veg, more blooms, or plants with fewer pest problems, it all starts below ground. And the easiest way to improve your soil? Add organic matter. Why organic matter matters Adding organic matter (like compost, manure, or leaf litter) improves soil structure, feeds microbes, boosts moisture retention, and loads your garden up with nutrients. A healthy, thriving soil ecosystem means healthier plants—and fewer headaches for you. A 5cm layer dug into the top few inches is a great start. If your soil is heavy clay or super sandy, you might need to do this a few times throughout the year. What kind of soil do you have? Understanding your soil’s structure helps you know what it needs. Most gardeners are aiming for something close to loam—a rich, crumbly mix of about 40% sand, 40% silt and 20% clay. Loam drains well, holds nutrients, and lets roots spread freely. Here’s a quick way to test your soil at home: Roll a moist (not wet) handful of soil into a ball and give it a squeeze. Clay soil: sticky, holds its shape firmly Sandy soil: gritty, falls apart easily Silty soil: smooth, holds its shape but softer than clay Loamy soil: holds its shape, crumbles easily No matter your soil type, adding organic matter will help move it toward that ideal loamy texture. A quick soil health test (worms to the rescue!) Earthworms are great indicators of soil health. Dig a spadeful of soil (about 30cm x 30cm), place it on cardboard, and count the wrigglers. 10 or more worms = good soil health Fewer than 10 = time to add more organic matter Spring is ideal for this test, but you can do it anytime (as long as it hasn’t just rained). DIY organic matter: compost, bokashi & worms You can make rich, microbe-packed organic matter right at home with: Compost: Mix “greens” (kitchen scraps, clippings, manure) with “browns” (leaves, cardboard, prunings). Mature compost is dark, crumbly, and smells earthy. Bokashi: Great for small spaces, it ferments almost all kitchen waste (yes, even meat and dairy). You’ll need bokashi bran and two bins to rotate. Worm farms: These little legends munch through food scraps and produce worm castings and “worm wee”—liquid gold for your garden. Other ways to boost soil health While organic matter is your best bet, here are a few extras worth trying: Cover crops: Sow green manures in the off-season to add nutrients and improve soil structure. Crop rotation: Helps reduce pests and disease while balancing soil nutrients. Mulching: Retains moisture, regulates soil temp, and breaks down into more organic matter over time. Natural fertilisers: Fish emulsion, bone meal, and blood meal are all excellent additions without the downsides of synthetic fertilisers. Improving clay soils Clay soils can be tough—but not impossible. Break them up with regular applications of compost, aged manure, or gypsum. Over time, you’ll notice better drainage, looser soil, and happier plants. Getting to know your soil pH Soil pH affects how easily plants can absorb nutrients. Most garden plants prefer a slightly acidic soil—around 6 to 6.5. You can buy a pH test kit, or try this DIY version: You’ll need: 2 bowls 1 cup of soil ½ cup water ½ cup baking soda ½ cup vinegar What to do: Add 2 tablespoons of soil to each bowl. In one bowl, add water and vinegar. If it fizzes, your soil is alkaline. In the other, add water and baking soda. If it fizzes, your soil is acidic. No fizz? You’re sitting pretty with neutral soil. Raised garden beds to the rescue If your native soil is just not cutting it, raised beds give you full control. Fill them with a rich blend of compost, topsoil and aged manure, and you’ll have perfect planting conditions from day one. Raised beds also improve drainage and warm up faster in spring. The takeaway Healthy soil is the secret to a great garden. Whether you're reviving tired beds or building a new patch from scratch, it all starts with organic matter. Keep adding compost. Test your pH. Check for worms. And most importantly—give it time. Good soil doesn’t happen overnight, but if you feed it well and let the microbes do their thing, your plants will thank you in every season to come.

The winter care guide for strawberries: How to grow, care for & propagate strawberries   Strawberries are much loved by home gardeners, and a must-have in any edible garden. They’re generous, low-maintenance fruiters — rewarding you with basket loads of delicious treats for very little effort. To set yourself up for summer harvests, the key time to begin is during winter months. If you’re in a warmer climate, aim to plant from June to September. In regions with colder temperatures, snow-prone areas, late August — September is the best time to plant strawberries.  This guide covers both planting your strawberry beds with new plants, and maintaining an existing strawberry patch to keep its fruit production optimal for seasons to come.   Winter strawberry care and cold weather protection During the winter months strawberry plants enter dormancy, but that doesn’t mean your patch should be ignored. Winter is a great time to inspect your strawberry beds for signs of winter injury, like blackened crowns or dying-off runners. Cold temperatures, especially a late spring frost arriving unexpectedly, can cause lasting winter damage. Protecting your young plants with row covers or applying a winter mulch helps buffer against frost damage and cold weather. While the plants aren’t actively growing, winter is also a good time to prepare for the following year. If you’re planning a new bed, check the area and you can even do a soil test before planting. Aim for loose, well-drained soil amended with compost. Keep drainage in mind so you can reduce the risk of fungal diseases like gray mould during wet weather.    Choosing the right variety for your garden It can feel a little overwhelming standing in front of rows of seemingly identical strawberry plants at the garden centre. But if you look close, you’ll find each variety offers something a little different — whether that’s a longer harvest season or a unique flavour profile. Strawberry cultivars generally fall into two categories: short-day and day-neutral. Short-day varieties, like Pajaro and Camarosa, fruit earlier in spring. Day-neutral varieties, like Monterey and Sweet As, aren’t influenced by daylight length, so they fruit over a longer period with multiple flushes. If your goal is an early, abundant spring harvest, opt for short-day types. If you’d prefer a steady supply of berries into the warmer months, day-neutral strawberries are the way to go. For something a little more whimsical, try White Alpine Strawberries. These dainty wild berries have a distinctive flavour — sweet fruit, with hints of white chocolate. Their pale colour also keeps them hidden from birds, you’ll just have to beat the children to them!   Location, soil type & watering Strawberries thrive in a sunny, sheltered spot. Though they love warmth, remember they are woodland natives at heart and appreciate a little afternoon shade. A lightweight netting can do double duty — offering shade from intense summer sun and keeping hungry birds away. It’s best to plant strawberries into rich, fertile soil. It’s important to choose a spot with well-drained soil too.  Before planting, dig in generous amounts of compost, aged sheep manure/pellets or other organic matter.  In containers, use good quality potting mix and stay on top of feeding and watering.  Watering is key. Strawberries don’t like too much water or wet feet (they need good drainage), but letting them dry out (especially during fruiting season) will reduce their productivity.  Strawberry roots are shallow, so planting on raised mounds improves drainage. Make sure the crown of each plant is sitting just above the soil surface to prevent rot.   How many strawberry plants should I grow? As many as you can fit! To enjoy strawberries fresh, in baking and still have enough to freeze, you may need upwards of 20+ plants per person. But if you’re short on space, just 5 plants per person will give you small daily pickings — a bowlful of sun-warmed berries for breakfast or dessert.   Tending to an existing strawberry patch If you already have strawberry plants in the ground, now’s the time for a winter tidy up.  Remove brown, dead leaves and weed around the crowns. If your plants are three years or older, it’s time to replace them — they’ll be past their prime. You can either buy new plants from the nursery, or propagate your own from runners or by division.   How to propagate strawberry plants There are two main methods: From runners – Young plantlets form on long stems sent out from the mother plant. These can be pegged down into pots to root before detaching.  By division – Dividing older strawberry plants (lifting and separating at the crown) can refresh their vigour, give you more plants, and keep your patch productive. You will know when your plant is ready for division when it is more than three years old, and you may notice the plant is becoming very overgrown and crowded. The crown of the plant may even have started to die off, this is a common sign that they are due for a refresh. Division is a good option in the winter if you find you need more plants quickly and have no more runners to propagate from.   How to divide a strawberry plant Lift the plant Gently dig around the base of the mature strawberry plant with a fork or trowel. Lift it out carefully, keeping as much root intact as possible. Examine the plant Shake or rinse away the soil to get a clear view of the crown. You may notice the central section is beginning to die back — a sign the plant is past its prime. Around the outside, you’ll see smaller, naturally formed offshoots known as offsets. Each one should have its own roots and a leafy growing point — these are what you’ll separate and replant. Divide the plant Using your hand or snips, split the crown into sections. Each division should have:— A good root system— A strong growing point with leaves You can usually get 2-4 plants from one healthy parent plant. Replant immediately Plant each division into a small pot or straight into the ground. Make sure the crown (where leaves meet roots) is just above the soil surface. Firm in gently and water plants well. These new plants will fruit reliably for another 2-3 years.   Fertilising & mulching Winter is not the time to fertilise. Wait until early spring to apply a slow-release fertiliser suitable for fruiting plants to help with plant growth and fruit production. After feeding, apply a straw mulch, pine needles, leaf litter or wood chips — anything that mimics the forest floor. This helps with weed control, lock in soil moisture, and keep ripening fruit from rotting on the soil. Once your strawberries are in production, a fortnightly liquid feed will keep them flowering and fruiting.   Companion plants for strawberries Companion planting is a lovely way to support your strawberry patch naturally. Nasturtiums are excellent — they help deter pests (and some dappled shade). Herbs like thyme and basil are good neighbours that can help improve taste. Flowers such as borage and marigold bring in the pollinators. Remember winter is the quiet groundwork that leads to an overflowing summer garden and growing season. With a bit of attention now, your healthy plants will be ready to burst into spring with new growth and reward you for your efforts.   Whether you’re planting new strawberry plants or refreshing what’s already there, these small jobs now will make a big difference later. ________________________________________________ The Sage Journal Winter Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.

Composting isn’t complicated — it’s a key part of a healthy garden. This step-by-step guide covers the basics of compost bins, the difference between hot and cold methods, and simple tips for turning garden and kitchen waste into rich, usable compost.   There is no better time than autumn to get started on a compost pile. As the daylight hours dwindle and the temperatures drop, you’ll notice the garden shedding all signs of summer.  The leaves on the trees turn amber while the flowers blacken with seed heads, and we are compelled to ‘tidy up’ and put the garden to bed for winter. Amid this, we are consequently left with piles of prunings and deadheads which, if treated appropriately, can be transformed into garden gold come springtime.  Composting shouldn’t be seen as a daunting task, but rather an integral part of a flourishing garden. The trick to success with your compost pile is by simplifying it. Compost bins The simplest way to compost is to use a simple and purpose-designed compost bin. Many bins are a practical solution for small gardens where a ‘compost bay’ is not possible due to lack of space. While these bins can be a bit of an eye sore, if tucked behind a garden shed or fence, they are ideal for beginners who feel intimidated by a traditional pile.  Choose a compost bin with a strong, secure lid and can be rat-proofed by adding some reinforced steel mesh or chicken wire down the bottom and securing with cable ties. Rats can be a common problem and are usually one of the biggest hurdles for people when it comes to composting, so taking this step can make all the difference!  How to use a compost bin - Compost bins function like a giant soup pot – add in the ingredients (brown and green waste) and stir it until it breaks down.   Cold compost - Add ingredients gradually as materials become available.  This is the preferred method by many as storing materials can be difficult if you don’t have the space. This method is perfectly fine, especially if you are just trying to minimise your food waste and don’t intend to use the compost you make quickly.  The cold composting method takes a lot longer to produce usable compost but is a good way to continually break down the materials around your garden throughout the year.  Another point about cold compost is that because the pile doesn’t heat up quickly, you must be careful about what kind of food you put in. Meat, dairy and citrus can attract rodents and take a long time to break down in the bin.  Hot compost - Add ingredients all in one go.  This process is much faster to break down the materials. You can collect bags of brown  waste like leaves, wood chips and paper waste and store in an area like a garage or shed.  Designate a wheelie bin outside for green waste, like clean garden prunings and lawn clippings. Food scraps can be fermented inside a bokashi bin until you are ready to use. How to: hot compost for beginners   Collect materials – brown waste = dried leaves, paper waste, wood chips + green waste = lawn clippings, garden waste, bokashi.   Store in bags / bins until you are ready to build the pile.  When you’re ready, start by adding a good layer of wood chips. This will help with drainage.  Then begin to layer the green and brown waste until you have reached the top.   A good ratio is 40% green and 60% brown. If you don’t have enough greens your pile will fail to heat up but if you don’t have enough browns there will be lack of airflow and structure.   Add a bucket full of water into the bin at the halfway point, and once again when you reach the top.  Keep pushing the materials down as you build the pile. The pile won’t heat up if the volume of materials is too low.  Once full, close the lid and wait a few days.   After three days, use an aerator to turn the pile. This will be difficult the first time you  do this as the bin is so full and compacted. Go slowly and take your time.  A week later, check on your bin. The materials should be a lot more condensed and looking broken down. The pile should also be steaming – this is a good indication you have made a hot compost pile.  To keep the temperature up you must turn the pile again.  The purpose of turning the pile is that the centre will always be the hottest, so you must  move the cooler materials on the outside into the middle. This also helps to add oxygen into the pile.  Keep turning every few days from now on until the pile stops heating up.  Your pile must remain at a high temperature of 55 degrees for 1-2 weeks to kill  pathogens and weed seeds.  Once the temperature of the pile lowers, leave to cure for 12 weeks. This is an important step as using hot compost too early can risk burning your plants.  When worms return to the bin and soil appears crumbly and loose you may use the  compost in the garden.  This is when having two bins comes in handy, one can be left to cure while you build the next one.   ________________________________________________   The Sage Journal Autumn Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.

An autumn guide to harvesting, sorting, seed-saving and storing pumpkins and potatoes. As autumn approaches, gardeners are finally rewarded with the fruits of their labour. Autumnin the garden means harvest season, with pumpkins and potatoes, for many, being high on thelist. Understanding the right time to pick and how to store these crops can make a big differencein your winter pantry. Here are some straightforward tips to help you make the most of your precious harvests thisautumn. Harvesting pumpkinsYou’ll know it’s time to harvest pumpkins when they’re at a decent size, and the skin deepens in colour and hardens off. You will notice the vine begin to shrivel and dry too, and the tendrils closest to the pumpkin will die back completely.   At this point it’s ok to cut the pumpkin from the vine, leaving about 10cm of stem which helps the pumpkin to cure and prevent rot. A withered stem also prevents insects from entering and causing damage.  Once inside, don’t store on a cold, concrete floor or similar which can lead to rot. Store on top of cardboard, a piece of wood or even hang up inside a fabric or mesh bag.  Saving pumpkin seedsWhen the time comes to use your pumpkin, select the best-looking ones to save seeds from. You can simply scoop the seeds out and wash in a colander before leaving out on a paper towel to dry off. Once dried completely, you can store in a paper envelope to sow the following year. Pumpkin seeds can last for up to six years if stored correctly – in a cool, dry place away fromdirect sunlight. Harvesting potatoesYou can eat potatoes straight out of the ground after they’ve flowered, but if your intention is to store them over the winter, you need to wait until the potato plant yellows and dies back. Waiting 2-3 weeks after foliage die-back for the skins to harden can increase their storage ability. Waiting for a period of dry weather, if possible, will make the process easier. And leaving the soil on the potato to dry off before storing is best to avoid rot. Sorting & saving seed potatoesOnce harvested, you can sort the potatoes out into piles – for storage, to be eaten straight away or thrown away.  Any potatoes that have gone green or are rotting will have to be discarded. There will be potatoes that should be put into an ‘eat now’ pile. This mayinclude potatoes that have minor skin damage or feel a bit soft. Potatoes for storing will feel firm, with no wounds.  Harvest stage is a good time to save your seed potatoes for spring. To do this, pile each crop(all potatoes per plant) and select the healthiest looking potatoes from each pile. Store in asack in a cool, dark place to stop them from sprouting until next planting season. Winter storagePumpkins usually last three months in a cool, dry place but can store up to six months if you are lucky. Pumpkins continue to ripen after they are picked so storing upside down can aid in this process, and is said to make the pumpkin taste even sweeter. (Be careful not to damage the stalk if you choose to do this.) Potatoes prefer cool, slightly humid conditions, stored in the dark to prevent sprouting. A cardboard box with newspaper at the bottom or a sack below the pantry should be sufficient for most gardeners. The main thing to remember is that warmth and light will trigger sprouting in potatoes, so keeping them cool and dark is the main thing.________________________________________________The Sage Journal Autumn Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.

Everything you need to know to prolong your dahlia flowers and prep your tubers for next season  Flowers are so fleeting. They’re such a good reminder to us to live in the present moment. And everyone’s (well, lots of peoples’!) favourite flower, the dahlia, is the perfect reminder of this in autumn at the end of the growing season.  Dahlias are beautiful flowers and long-lasting cut flowers — a must have in your garden beds. These late summer showstoppers take so many months of growing lush, leafy foliage with buds that seemingly take weeks to unfurl when they are young plants in your early summer garden. Finally, by the time we are blessed with abundant blooms, the risk of frost is threatening to end it all for us too soon. But before you start rushing out into the garden to call it a day on their showy blooms, there is still plenty more time left in the season to extend your harvests and prep for next season (as long as the frost-fairy stays away!).  In this article, you’ll find out what tasks you should be doing in early, mid and late autumn in the dahlia patch.  Frost & flowers Dahlias are frost tender perennials. Meaning they will be damaged by a heavy frost, where their foliage will blacken and die back to the underground tuber.   In New Zealand, the warmer climates (areas north of Christchurch) should remain frost-free throughout March and into April. By late April you may have experienced one or two light frosts, depending on your location.  For south of Christchurch, your summer season is typically shorter and, unfortunately, you may experience your first frost as early as the beginning of autumn. So, it pays to be vigilant and have your dahlias prepared for this (more on this below).  Early autumn: Keeping dahlias blooming Extend your harvest If you’re north of Christchurch, you’re in luck — there’s still time to enjoy bucket loads of dahlias! Keep deadheading spent flower heads, and your plants will continue their flower production.  When cutting, go deep into the plant to prevent it from becoming top-heavy.  Prevent disease As temperatures cool, pests and diseases become more active. Powdery mildew is a common issue for dahlias, but you can minimise its spread by removing lower leaves to for good air circulation and improve airflow. If powdery mildew appears on upper leaves, treat it quickly with a homemade milk tea spray. Watch for pests Katydids, caterpillars and earwigs love dahlias — and not in a good way! It’s a good idea to clear away dead plant material to avoid attracting these unwanted visitors. Think of it this way: a tidy garden means fewer pests looking for an easy meal.  Fertilising for continued blooms  If frost isn’t a concern in your area, you can give your dahlias one last feeding to encourage flowering into the winter months. Choose a phosphorus and potassium-rich fertiliser to support strong stems and blooms — avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilisers, as too much nitrogen can weaken tubers. A sprinkle of natural potash at the base of the plants before mulching works wonders for those floppy late-season blooms. Mid autumn: Prepping for the seasonal shift Reduce plant stress With warm days and cool nights, your dahlias plants will appreciate a little extra care. Start a fortnightly seaweed application — either as a soil drench to get beneath the soil surface or foliage spray — to give them a natural resilience boost.  Mulch for protection A layer of compost mulch not only insulates the soil on chilly nights but also helps the soil retain moisture during warmer autumn days. If you lift your tubers later, this mulch will mix nicely into the soil when the time comes.  Label before it’s too late The danger of frost is just around the corner, so autumn is the best time to label your plants! Whether you use tags or flagging tape, having clear labels will be invaluable when lifting and storing tubers.  Save dahlia seeds for a surprise Growing dahlia plants from seed is an exciting experiment, since they never grow back exactly the same as their parent plant. If you want to try breeding your own varieties of dahlias, allow some flowers to go to seed. Ideally, wait until the seed heads turn brown before harvesting, but if rain or frost threatens, pick them early and dry them indoors in a glass of water until they’re crisp.Late autumn: Wrapping up the season Cut back after frost  Once the first hard frost hits, your dahlia foliage will turn black. This is your cue to cut it back and compost the remains. If you don’t get hard frosts, mimic the process by trimming plants to about 20cm above the ground. If you’re leaving the tubers in the soil, mulch heavily around the base of the plants to protect the tuberous roots. If lifting, wait about two weeks to let the tubers harden before storage.  Lifting & cleaning tubers  Carefully dig around each clump, leaving a 10cm margin to avoid damaging the tubers. If your soil is heavy or wet, lift gently and use your hands if needed. Shake off excess soil or rinse lightly to check for disease, though leaving a bit of soil can help prevent drying out. Let them dry in a sunny location for a day or two before brushing off any remaining dirt.  Check for crown gall  While handling tubers, inspect for crown gall — a bacterial infection that appears as white, cauliflower-like growths on the crown or neck. If you spot it, the best thing is to discard affected tubers immediately — do not compost them.  Proper storage for healthy tubers  Store tubers in a frost-free, dry area. The best way to store dahlia tubers is in crates or cardboard boxes to allow good air circulation — airtight containers can trap moisture and cause rot. Keep them off concrete to prevent moisture loss, placing them on a shelf or table instead.  Monitor throughout the season  Check tubers regularly. If they start shrivelling, add damp potting mix. If mould appears, mix in vermiculite to absorb excess moisture. A little attention now ensures strong, healthy plants next spring! —   As autumn settles in, tending to your dahlias at the end of the season will set you up for success next season. Whether you're trying to extend their bloom cycle, preparing to store tubers or saving seeds, these simple steps ensure strong, healthy growth for your dahlias plants for next spring. A little effort now means you'll be rewarded with another season of abundant blooms — ready to steal the show all over again.   The Sage Journal Autumn Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.

A guide to harvesting and saving seeds from your most treasured plants, flowers and vegetables in autumn. The autumn garden may seem daunting to some… Plants tower and flop, pests are plentiful and rusty seed heads seem to outnumber the blooms. It’s at this time of year that we can feel a tad agitated as we wander the garden.  There is an urge to cut everything back and start fresh. If you, too, feel compelled to wipe the slate clean, don’t rush to toss it all into the compost bin and close the lid on the season.  Instead, muster that last bit of energy to save a few seed heads from your most treasured plants. We promise your energy will return, along with the promise of spring, and those little gems are the ticket to a flourishing garden once again.  Tips for saving seeds Select the healthiest plant(s) for seed saving. This is usually the first to flower or fruit, the tallest, tastiest, or most unique colour variation.  Do not cut off the flower or vegetable until the seed is ready for harvest.  If you’re saving seed from a flower, wait until the seed pod turns brown.  For fruits like tomatoes or pumpkins, wait until they ripen on the vine.  Protect the seed pod with a mesh bag if worried about birds or animals getting to it first. How to harvest seeds for saving Harvest on a sunny day, preferably in the afternoon or once morning dew has dried.  Cut off the seed pod and store in a breathable container (like a cardboard box or bag) in a cool, dry area for two weeks.  You can begin to separate seeds from the chaff after this time. How to sort seeds for saving There are several methods to use for separating out the seed from the chaff:  Manual removalSome seeds are large and can be easily removed from the pod. This is the case for the legume family like sweet peas, peas, beans and lupin, or flowers like calendula, sunflowers or cornflowers.  Shaking in a bagSome seed pods can be placed into a sealed ziplock bag and given a good shake to loosen the seed. This is a helpful method for flowers such as hyssop, foxglove, nigella or poppy.   Blowing or winnowingOther pods, like cosmos, can be broken apart and given a gentle blow to separate the chaff from the seed. ColanderBreak up seed heads and let the seed fall through the gaps with the remaining chaff left at the top. This technique is helpful for brassicas, leek, parsleyor coriander seed.  Paper towelSeeds inside fleshy fruit like tomatoes or pumpkins can be washed and drained inside a sieve and left to dry on top of a paper towel.  Tomato seeds will stick to the paper towel but remain viable. Simply sow the paper towel when the time comes to germinate.   How to store your harvested seeds Store in an airtight container or ziplock bag and label with the plant name and harvest date.  Freshness matters. Use within one year for optimal viability. (Seeds can last for up to six years if stored correctly, although you may notice germination rates decrease the older the seed is.) Store in a dark, cool place away from direct sunlight and extreme heat to prolong seed life. Cross-pollination of seeds Some types of vegetables and flowers can cross-pollinate, resulting in offspring different from the parent. This is more common in flowers than it is in vegetables. Flowers that are known to cross-pollinate are: Dahlias, cosmos, poppies and zinnias.  Legumes like sweet peas, beans and peasall self-pollinate, ensuring consistent traits in saved seeds.  Tomatoes are mainly self-pollinating but can be cross-pollinated by manually transferring pollen.  Experimentation with cross-pollination can lead to new cultivars and exciting discoveries in your garden! —Once you have squirrelled away some seeds, you can choose to scatter them around the  garden in autumn (only if they are hardy) or wait until spring.  — Saving seeds is an easy and cost effective way of increasing the stock of the vegetables and flowers you love in your garden. There are many benefits to saving seed. It opens the door for you to appreciate the life cycle of plants and the possibilities of plant breeding.  Seeds harvested from your own garden will be more suited to your garden’s climate and as a result, you will notice that the plants adapt and become more resilient to the environmental conditions and pests in your area.   The Sage Journal Autumn Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.

  As the seasons shift from late summer into autumn and the garden begins to wind down, it's the best time to look ahead and set the groundwork for next spring.  While spring flowers may feel like a distant dream, the work we do in autumn plays a crucial role in bringing them to life. Among the most rewarding tasks is selecting, chilling and planting spring-flowering bulbs — small but powerful packets of potential that will transform a grey, lifeless garden after the winter months.  In this guide, we’ll walk through everything you need to know, from where to source the best bulbs and which varieties best suit your space. To essential planting techniques, chilling requirements and aftercare tips to ensure a garden popping with joy when spring arrives. Where to order spring-blooming bulbs In the autumn time, you will see spring bulbs popping up for sale everywhere online and in the garden centres. There are a range of different suppliers who sell bulbs, and it can really depends on how many you would like to buy which will determine where you source your bulbs from.  If you are interested in starting small, with a pot or two for springtime, then your local garden centre will have everything you need.  But if you are in the market for a larger quantity of bulbs, you will find better deals online with suppliers who sell in bulk, like NZ Bulbs or Bulbs Direct.  Then there are boutique growers who offer specialty spring bulbs and corms. These growers carefully select varieties based on their strength and reliability as a cut flower. If you are interested in growing spring bulbs as cut flowers, then check out retailers such as Gray Floral and Emerden for their range of the most gorgeous ranunculus, anemone, tulips and daffodil bulbs. What variety of bulbs are best  When it comes to selecting the varieties of bulbs, there are some that are suited more towards growing in pots versus growing in the garden, some that you will treat as annual plants versus perennials, and some that grow better in shade or partial shade versus full sun. When selecting your bulbs, think about the intended growing conditions to find the most suitable candidates.  Bulbs for pots Peony tulips ‘Foxtrot’ and ‘Double Price’  Dwarf daffodils ‘Tete-a-Tete' and ‘Thalia’  Hyacinth Iris reticulata (aka Dwarf Iris) Bulbs for cut flowers  Daffodil ‘Ice Follies’ and ‘Bridal Crown’  Tulip single ‘Clearwater,’ Peony tulips ‘Verona’   Fringed tulip ‘Mascotte’  Parrot tulip ‘Cabanna’  Anemone ‘Rosa Chiaro,’ 'Lavender’ and ‘Bianco’  Dutch iris  Ranunculus Bulbs for naturalising  'Naturalising' means planting bulbs with the intention of leaving them in the ground for several  years — or even indefinitely — allowing them to multiply naturally and bloom each season. While some bulbs naturalise easily, others are less suited to this approach. Here are some bulbs that will easily ‘naturalise’ in a New Zealand garden.  Muscari  Tulip Darwin hybrid series — eg. ‘Triple A’, ‘Hakuun’ or ‘Pink Impression’  Daffodil Leucojum (aka Snowflake narcissus)  Daffodil ‘King Alfred’ Bulbs for shade  Bluebells Crocus Convallaria majalis (aka Lily of the valley) Please note: depending on your climate zone, some of these bulbs may be more suited to your garden than others. Those in warmer climates may struggle to grow bulbs that require a cold winter. What to do when your bulbs arrive  Once you have ordered or purchased your bulbs, open the packet straight away and inspect the bulbs to make sure there are no signs of rot or mould. Rot and mould can easily spread to other healthy tulip bulbs, so it is important to promptly remove and bin them. Visually check for signs and give each bulb a nice squeeze — they should be hard and firm, not soft and squidgy.  Once you have inspected your bulbs you can move them into a clean brown paper bag (clearly labelled) and continue to store until planting time.  Prechilling - for tulip bulbs only For areas North of Christchurch, it is recommended to prechill your tulip bulbs in the fridge for 6-8 weeks before planting. This period of prechilling mimics the freezing temperatures that tulips require to form long stems that are suitable for cutting. Without this chilling time, you will likely have very stumpy and short tulips. You can start this process of chilling your bulbs from mid March to early April.  To chill your bulbs, it is best to store them in a clean paper bag with a temperature of around 4 degrees Celcius. Care must be taken not to freeze the bulbs, or they will not survive. During this time, do not store fruit in the fridge (or if you must try an airtight container) to protect the bulbs from ethylene gas, which can destroy the forming flower. Periodically check on your bulbs to ensure they are not frozen or developing mould.  If you live South of Christchurch, you can skip this process, as the soil temperature over winter is cold enough. When is the right time to plant spring bulbs For areas South of Christchurch, you want the longest possible chilling period for tulips to develop long stems. You may also need to get the rest of your spring bulbs in the ground before it hardens or there is snow (if that is your kind of climate). However, waiting until the weather cools is recommended so when you do plant your bulbs, they can begin this ‘chilling’ process immediately. Therefore, planting spring bulbs can begin as early as April through to May, depending on your location.  For our warmer climate areas, you will find after prechilling in the fridge for 6-8 weeks that your tulip bulbs will not be ready to plant out until late May (late autumn). Don't panic if you see others planting their tulip bulbs earlier. As long as you know you have given your bulbs a period of 6-8 weeks in the fridge, you will be rewarded with quality, long stemmed flowers come spring. The remainder of your spring bulbs can also be planted out around this time (or earlier if preferred) as they don’t require prechilling. How to plant bulbs in pots  Choose a large pot — something at least 30cm x 30cm is best. Good drainage is one of the most important components with bulbs as they do rot easily. To avoid this, make sure the pot has a few drainage holes, and cover with broken pieces of pottery or pebbles in the base to prevent the holes from becoming clogged with soil.  Choose a specialty bulb potting mix which has all the added nutrients the bulbs will need.  You can plant your bulbs closer in pots than in the garden. Just make sure they are not touching each other or the side of the pot. A good rule of thumb for planting depth is twice the height of the bulb — 0-10cm for smaller bulbs and 10-20cm for larger bulbs.  It's a good idea to cover the pots with some form of protection from birds or other pests (like rats!) that will dig up the bulbs and eat them. Netting, chicken wire or an upside-down wire basket can work well to deter them. How to plant spring bulbs in the garden Select a suitable planting area in the garden for your bulbs — whether that is full sun, partial shade or full shade — and work in a decent amount of organic matter like compost or sheep pellets into the garden soil. If you have heavy clay soil, you may need to add coarse sand or potting mix into the hole to aid drainage. Bulbs like well-drained soil. To achieve a full look in the garden, plant bulbs in drifts or clusters of 10-25 bulbs — this will give you maximum impact. Most bulbs have a flat end where the roots grow from and a pointed end which is where the flower appears from. Therefore, make sure to plant the pointed end facing upwards.  Like with pots, you want to plant the bulbs at least twice their own depth. Dig a planting hole or trench, and if your soil is heavy clay this is when you can add a 5cm layer of coarse sand or spent potting mix to improve drainage. Position the bulbs at the base, ensuring there is a gap of at least three times the bulb’s width between each one. Cover them with soil, mixing in potting mix if needed. Once planted, water them to help settle them in and remove air pockets.  If you are planting a large number of bulbs in the garden or paddocks, the Sneeboer Great Dixter Bulb Planter is a must. Otherwise try hand tools like this planting trowel or a hori hori.Watering & fertilising   In the first few weeks, you want to be watering more frequently as the roots are developing — being especially mindful with the pots, not to let the potting mix dry out but also not to be so heavy handed that you rot the bulbs.  Bulbs do not need any fertiliser at planting time. Wait until spring when the growth of the bulb foliage speeds up and flowering is imminent. This is when the bulbs are expending the most energy and will benefit from fertilising to encourage more spectacular blooms. This also helps to form the flowers for next season.  You can use quality seaweed mix, bulb fertiliser or slow-release potash fertiliser.   Bulb planting aftercare Picking flowers For most spring bulbs, it is best to leave as much of the foliage as possible when cutting the flowers as this is how the bulb gathers its energy to store over the dormant cold period. Therefore, it is best to be mindful of your expectations for the coming year.  For tulips, most cut flower growers will treat these bulbs as an annual plant, pulling the entire bulb up when harvesting to increase the stem length. But if you would prefer to leave the flowers to enjoy them in the garden, once the flowers fade and seedheads start to form it is important to snip these off quickly, so the bulb does not expend its energy. Leave all the foliage to go brown and die back naturally. This can be difficult for the tidy gardener who wants to clean up an unsightly mess! But, if you want flowers for the following year this is crucial. If you don't like the look of this, plant seedlings like cosmos, hyssop or Shirley poppies, which will grow quickly and conceal the undergrowth.  Once everything has died back you can go ahead and tidy up before mulching with a quality compost (if in the garden).  For pots, you may choose to lift your bulbs and store over summer. Store in a cardboard box, somewhere cool and dry where they are not exposed to damp.  Planting spring bulbs is a pretty easy way to bring colour and life to your garden after the winter months. Though there is a little planning with choosing different bulbs and the right varieties, and taking time to prepare pots or soil correctly, you will be rewarded with beautiful spring blooms.  Whether you are filling pots on your patio, creating swathes of colour in the garden, or experimenting with growing cut flowers for the garden, bulbs are an easy, reliable way to welcome spring. Plant them in autumn, and let nature take care of the rest. ________________________________________________   The Sage Journal Autumn Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.