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Dahlia flowers may have been considered old fashioned once upon a time, but these days many young gardeners are getting into bidding wars over these bold blooms. The blushy diva Cafe au Lait started the trend with brides-to-be, leaving florists and farmers flapping to keep up with demand. Now the everyday gardener is getting on board, and there seems to be no other flower that has captured our hearts quite like the dahlia has. Garden dahlias are unique in the flower world as they have the ability to come in such a range of colours and shapes. This is due to the fact that dahlias are octoploids, meaning they have eight sets of chromosomes, whereas most plants only have two. This great diversity has generated a collector's phenomenon among gardeners and a corresponding surge in tuber sales. If you're growing dahlias this year, you may be eager to try propagating them to increase your stock and save yourself some money. I promise it's not as hard or complicated as it seems; there are three main methods to propagate a dahlia, which I will demonstrate in this article. Propagation from division One of the easiest ways to propagate your dahlia is to divide the tubers. This requires you to dig up your dahlia tuber clumps in the winter, once the plant has gone dormant. Carefully lift your clump from the soil and leave it to dry before storing. In the spring, the tubers will naturally begin to 'wake up' with increased temperatures, and the eyes will begin to swell. At this time, you can begin to divide your tubers. To do this: Take your clump of tubers and use a sharp knife or secateurs to divide the clump. You may choose to cut the clump in half, quarters, or even individual tubers. Ensure each new clump of tubers or individual tuber has a section of the neck and crown intact. The neck connects the tubers together, while the crown is where the eye is located. A new shoot will grow from the eye, and if you are missing the neck or the crown from your division, it will not be viable. This is why dividing in the spring is the preferred option, as the eyes become more prominent and easier to see. Plant the tuber directly in the garden after the first frost or pre-sprout in potting mix. Propagation by Cutting The next way to propagate dahlias is by taking stem cuttings. Dahlias grown from cuttings will flower and form a new clump of tubers by the end of the season. Most competition show dahlias are propagated from stem cuttings, as it is much easier to control their growth when compared to a tuber propagated dahlia. The colour and vibrancy of the flower are said to be more intense when grown from cuttings. To do this: Take your clump of tubers or an individual tuber and lay them flat in a tray or pot. Cover with an aerated soil mix with added grit (pumice, sand or perlite). Dampen your soil mix but make sure it is not soaking wet. The tubers are prone to rotting and do not have the ability to use water until they grow roots and leaves. Place the tray indoors in a warm spot until the eye begins to sprout, this could take up to three weeks for some varieties. Check the moisture of the soil frequently. You can water lightly if it becomes too dry, but generally you will not need to water until the new shoot emerges. Once the shoot forms at least three sets of true leaves, you can take your cutting. Using a sharp pair of scissors, snip the stem at the base of the tuber. Remove the bottom set of leaves from your cutting, this is where the roots will grow. Dip in a rooting hormone if preferred, and place inside a pot using a cutting mix (potting soil with added grit). Water and place a clear bag over the top of the pot to keep up humidity and prevent the leaves from wilting. Leave in a warm area out of direct sunlight and keep moist. Your cutting should root in four to six weeks. During this time, it is important to be patient, I know it can feel tempting to pull the cutting out to see if roots have formed, but you could cause damage by doing this. Instead, check at the bottom of the pot to see if you can spot any roots. Once roots have formed, you can transplant the cutting to grow on before planting it in the garden. Propagation from seed Finally, there is propagation by seed. This has become an increasingly popular way to propagate dahlias thanks to flower farmer and breeder Erin Benzakein of Floret Farm, who has made information accessible and fun. Seed propagation will give you a brand new hybrid variety every time, and while some plants grown from seed may carry traits from the parent, this isn't a guarantee, and they can end up looking completely different. The added bonus of seed propagation is that it can be a cheaper option when compared to buying tubers. To do this: 1. Harvest dahlia seed heads in autumn once they turn brown and dry, or alternatively, purchase a packet of seed. 2. Sow directly on top of a good quality seed raising mix and sprinkle with a light layer of vermiculite, as dahlia seeds require light to germinate. 3. Place in a warm position indoors or on a heat mat until germination occurs, which should take 10–14 days. 4. Once germinated, carefully prick out seedlings into individual pots to grow on until established enough to be transferred into the garden in late spring. 5. Keep pots protected from frost as seedlings are tender. I hope you feel inspired to propagate your dahlias this spring. I'm sure you will be surprised by how little time and effort it takes to produce so many dahlia plants for you to enjoy in the garden. Happy propagating, friends! Thank you to Elly Keen @daydream.green for writing this blog for bugg®

Whether by necessity or for looks, container gardening has been around since people started living in cities. The container itself is really limited only by your imagination and drainage holes! You can choose from ceramic, metal, terracotta, plastic or even glass. The rule of thumb to follow for successful container gardening is choose the plant and get a suitable sized pot for it to grow into or choose a suitable sized plant to grow into the pot that you already have. Issues tend to occur when the pot is the right size for the plant right now but there is no room for the plant to grow. Small pots dry out very quickly and root bound plants (the roots have no space to grow so they grow round in circles, filling the pot) in small pots even more so. So please ensure that there is room for the plant to grow into the pot or be prepared to repot into the next size of pot each year or so. Some plants can even break the pot if they get too full of roots. There are plenty of options to plant in the pot, if you have a position in mind for your pots, select plants that thrive in those conditions. Is it full shade, part shade, full sun? Also choose plants that need similar living conditions and water requirements so they can live happily together in the same pot.   Do you want the planting to be permanent or is this a container that you want to change each season? If it is permanent, do you want it to be evergreen or deciduous (sheds its leaves in autumn)? Evergreen plants will shed a few leaves regularly but will look the same year-round. Deciduous plants shed all their leaves over the space of a week or so but there is generally the bonus of seasonal interest in the way of foliage changing colour in autumn and potentially spring blossom. A word on potting mix. You get what you pay for. If you are planting trees or shrubs that are going to be in the pots for years, I highly recommend that you invest in a premium potting mix. They have all the additions such as wetting crystals and coir fibre that help a plant thrive long term. The slow-release fertiliser will run out, generally in 9 months to 1 year. After that you are responsible for feeding your plants. If you are planting containers that will be changed every season, you have the opportunity to refresh and add new potting mix. In this situation you can use a middle range potting mix where the fertiliser won't last as long. The cheapest bags will have little to no slow-release fertiliser and no extras. If your potted plants aren't thriving it could be they are planted into cheap potting mix. Compost or garden soil shouldn't be used in pots in place of potting mix. Compost is too rich and is still breaking down so it can get quite warm in the process and shrinks down quite a lot. Soil is full of living organisms that need access to the other living organisms around them so when we contain them in a pot and cut off access, they die off and the soil structure becomes very compacted. Feeding and watering your potted plants is vital if you want a good display and healthy plants. As mentioned in the word about potting mix, the slow-release fertiliser will only last for so long, anywhere from 3 months to 1 year. After that time, there are nutrients in the mix to feed the plant. So ensure that you put a reminder on your calendar to top up slow-release fertiliser and during the warmer months, top up with a liquid fertiliser to give them a boost. Liquid seaweed and kelp pellets are a great health tonic, but they don't replace fertiliser. Granular fertiliser from Tui or Yates are too strong for use in pots and will state on the packet if they are not recommended for use in pots. If you have dogs, avoid using blood and bone or dried blood in your pots as you may come home to find the plants pulled out of the pot and potting mix everywhere.   Watering is particularly important in pots as the roots are contained and can't go searching deeper for water. Pots are generally free draining unless the pot has a saucer under it. With a saucer in place, they can stay quite damp so consider what you are planting into them. When planting larger shrubs or trees, you can mix up to one quarter of compost into the potting mix as this will help retain more water. This will help prevent stress during the warmer months. It's not uncommon to need to water larger potted plants twice in the hottest summer months.   Potted plants don't tend to need much watering over the cooler months as they don't physically require as much water and rain will generally provide ample moisture. Keep an eye on the pots though as you can get areas that are sheltered from rainfall by buildings or other plants, and these will need hand watered when necessary. Make sure you turn off any automated irrigation systems. As with any potted plants, the general rule of thumb is to water deeply, less often rather than a light sprinkle every day. Plants should be allowed to dry out (just not completely!) before watering again. It's best to water in the morning and if possible, only water the soil rather than over the foliage to help prevent fungal disease. If you have drippers or sprinklers set up in your pots, it's best if these are used in the morning so the plant has the moisture available during the heat of the day. But again, you need to keep an eye on your pots, especially if it is on an electronic timer, because it will water them on schedule regardless of whether they need it or not. After your pots have been planted for several months, it pays to take notice if the water you apply is running straight out the bottom of the pot. Or after you finish watering, when you scratch below the surface of the potting mix, it is still dry. Potting mix can become hydrophobic where it repels water. It also happens to soil in garden areas where it doesn't get rainfall such as under house eaves. In this situation you need to apply a soil 're-wetter' that will remedy the issue and get the mix absorbing water again. Saturaid and Yates 'Concentrated soil wetter' will both sort this issue out. Container gardening is hugely rewarding, particularly when you don't have a lot of garden space or a big section. Many plants can be grown very successfully in a container. The key to beautiful thriving pots is to put some thought into what you're going to plant beforehand, get the right stuff for planting them and keep a regular eye on them once they're planted! You can enjoy a garden wherever you live, and you can take it with you if you leave. That's a big bonus! By Kelly Jean Reyland of Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz) Images:"Container garden" by Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0."container garden on the patio" by thomas pix is licensed under CC BY 2.0.

Spring is on the horizon and with it, warm weather and planting your spring /summer veggie garden. While some people are itching to get their tomatoes planted at the first sign of warmth – please wait! For most of NZ, it’s still a while yet before the soil and air temperatures rise enough and the threat of frosts has passed. August is prep time in the vegetable garden. Time to look back at the previous garden and remember what was planted where. It’s always good to look at what went well and what didn’t when you are planning what to grow for this year. Keep in mind that best practice is to not plant the same plant in the same place year after year; this helps to prevent pests and diseases building up. Crop rotation also ensures the plants don’t all need the same nutrients year after year and enables the soil nutrients to be used or replenished strategically. If you are an avid veggie gardener and grow year round, it doesn’t hurt to give the soil a little rest before planting the summer garden. Turn the soil over, mix in some compost and fertiliser and leave it to settle for a few weeks before planting begins. If you are a summer gardener and the garden has been left over winter, you may need to remove some weeds before doing the same thing as above. A word on fertiliser – consider what you are planting and what grew in that spot the previous year. Plants need a combination of nutrients and minerals but broadly speaking, leafy plants need nitrogen for green leafy growth, root crops need phosphate for root development and flowering plants need potassium for flower/fruit development so choose an appropriate fertiliser to apply. An organic based fertiliser such as sheep pellets has the benefit of improving your soil as well as feeding the plant so that is always a good base to start from. There is more on improving the soil later in this blog. You can apply a specific granular fertiliser such as tomato fertiliser to ensure the correct mix of nutrients are present during the growing season. Good soil is the key to good harvests. Any improvement you can make to your soil will pay back in healthier plants and increased yields. In any soil, whether it is heavy clay right through to light and sandy, the best thing you can do is add compost and do it at least once or twice a year, every year. Compost is organic matter, which helps free draining sandy soil retain more moisture and nutrients. It will also help break up the very small and tightly packed clay particles to improve the soil structure, drainage and access to nutrients in clay soils. Every time you harvest vegetables and are about to plant something new in that spot, dig some compost into the soil before planting. Spread a layer around as mulch to help conserve soil moisture if it’s in a garden that you don’t dig over. It will get incorporated into the soil by the earthworms, it just takes a little longer than digging it in. Compost has the ability - over time - to turn rubbish or average soil into excellent soil. Another way you can add organic matter to the soil is to plant a ‘green manure crop’ in spaces that will be empty for a while, the winter vegetable garden can be a prime example. Sow a crop of lupin, mustard or oats, let them grow for a minimum of 6 weeks or you can let them grow until they are about to flower. At this stage you cut them down - the finer the better- with hedge shears and then dig them into the soil. You need to give them time to break down into the soil before replanting so allow plenty of time if you’re going to do this. Don’t pull them out by the roots. The entire plant with the top (cut up finely) needs to be dug into the soil. The finer the top is chopped, the faster it will break down into the soil. There are other benefits to a green manure crop than just improving the soil. Lupins take nitrogen out of the air and fix it as nodules on the plant's roots, natural fertiliser at its best! Mustard is a natural soil cleanser, and an effective remedy if you find wireworms in your potatoes. As Alexander Graham Bell once said, “before anything else, preparation is the key to success”. So spend some time planning and preparing your veggie garden and the rewards will follow! By Kelly Jean Reyland of Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

Gardeners around the globe have harnessed the power of seaweed for thousands of years, using this rich source of nutrients to improve soil quality and promote healthy plant growth. Today, there are plenty of amazing, organic seaweed fertilisers available (in fact, you can find a few right here), but did you know that you can easily make your own seaweed tonic at home? Seaweed is packed full of minerals, trace elements, and growth-promoting hormones, making it an excellent organic fertiliser. If you live near the coast and have access to seaweed, get ready to roll up your sleeves and get gathering: Step 1: Harvest This can be a fun weekend activity (especially with the kids in tow), or get your gumboots on and brave a stormy, wintery day. Here in NZ we are lucky to have such an accessible coastline - most of us are never too far from the sea! You can collect various different types of seaweed, but the main variety you’ll find here is kelp. It's best to collect seaweed that has washed up on the shore and is no longer submerged in saltwater. Take a cart (like the one pictured), or a garden bag to collect your seaweed spoils. Step 2: Rinse After collecting your seaweed, rinse it thoroughly with fresh water to remove excess salt, sand, and any other debris. This step is essential! Step 3: Chop Cut or chop your seaweed into small-ish pieces using scissors or a knife. This will make it easier to handle, and also accelerates the decomposition process. Step 4: Soak Now to create your Seaweed Solution! Place the chopped seaweed in a large container or bucket, then add water to completely submerge it. Let the seaweed soak in water for about 8 weeks. Stir the mixture occasionally, and watch water turn brown as the nutrients from the seaweed leach into the solution. Step 5: Dilute The resulting liquid fertiliser will need to be diluted with water before using it on your plants. A common dilution ratio is 1 part seaweed fertiliser to 3-4 parts water. Step 6: Apply Once you’ve diluted your seaweed fertiliser, you can use it to water your plants or as a foliar spray. Both methods are beneficial for providing nutrients and improving plant health. Apply the fertiliser every 2-4 weeks during the growing season, and watch as your garden blooms! It’s really as easy as that; your resulting seaweed potion will be packed full of potassium, nitrogen, and other micronutrients, all of which promote healthy root growth and overall plant vigour. It’ll also enhance soil structure, water retention, and microbial activity in the soil. Make the most of this natural, readily available resource if you can - your garden will thank you! If you don't have 8 weeks up your sleeve, or perhaps you don't live near a beach with plentiful seaweed, you can find some excellent organic seaweed fertilisers & tonics in our Organic Garden range. An important note; always ensure to check local regulations before harvesting seaweed from natural environments, as some areas may have restrictions or guidelines for collecting seaweed.

You may have heard the term “no-dig gardening” being bandied about recently. Also known as “no-till” or “lasagne” gardening, this method is certainly becoming popular among garden enthusiasts and even farmers around the globe - and we can understand why. No-dig gardening is rooted in ecological principles and sustainable practices; but it also offers a host of practical benefits to the gardener, from less groundwork & maintenance, to healthier soil and reduced weed growth. If you’re curious about this method, and perhaps want to give it a go in your own garden, this guide is for you.What is it?As the name suggests, no-dig gardening involves growing plants without disturbing the existing soil structure. No digging or tilling required! Once you’ve set up your no-dig garden bed it can be left undisturbed (aside from planting new seeds & plants, and topping up the surface with mulch as it breaks down over time). Unlike traditional gardening methods that require turning the soil, no-dig gardening focuses on creating and nurturing healthy, biodiverse soil ecosystems through the layering of organic matter. This method mimics nature's way of composting, allowing the soil to develop naturally and sustainably.A few key benefits of no-dig gardening include…Enhanced Soil Health: Leaving your soil undisturbed allows beneficial soil organisms to thrive. Healthy soil structure creates the foundation for good microorganism and earthworm activity. The subsequent improved nutrient cycling and better water retention = more robust and productive plants.Reduced Weed Growth: By layering organic mulch or compost on top of the soil, no-dig gardening suppresses weed growth.Natural aeration & drainage: Microbes, earthworms & other beneficial bugs create tunnels in your soil, resulting in better aeration and drainage. Biodiversity: A more balanced ecosystem within your soil attracts beneficial insects and wildlife. This in turn helps control pests and diseases, reducing the need for chemical interventions.Slower nutrient release: As organic matter in your soil breaks down, essential nutrients are released to your plants. Digging into your soil increases the speed these nutrients are released. The no-dig method allows nutrients to be released naturally at a slower, steadier rate, which is better for plant growth.Sustainability: No-dig gardening reduces soil erosion, and increased water retention allows you to conserve water.All of this results in less manual intervention from you, and better plant growth, health & productivity.Get started with no-dig gardening Choose a sunny site (at least 6 hours of sunlight per day). Avoid areas prone to waterlogging or heavy shade. You can create your no-dig garden bed over grass, dirt, or even concrete. You can also use a raised bed or container. You’ll need to gather a range of organic materials: compost, straw, leaves, grass clippings, newspaper, twigs & branches, woodchips, aged manure, seaweed, coffee grounds, etc. You can use store-bought compost, but as always we recommend home-made compost if you have it, as it contains a broader range of nutrients. Clear any existing weeds or vegetation in your chosen area. If you’re creating your garden bed over lawn or dirt, use a thick layer of cardboard or several layers of newspaper to smother grass and weeds. Remember to wet it down with water before layering on your organic material in the next step. Spread a 10-15 cm layer of compost, well-rotted manure or wood chips over the cardboard / newspaper base. Top this with alternating layers of your organic matter - straw, leaves, grass clippings, more compost etc. (You can see why it’s also called the ‘lasagne’ method!). Water each layer as you build to encourage decomposition and settling. Top your no-dig garden bed with a generous layer of compost, and plant in your seeds / seedlings. Finish with some pea straw mulch around your plants. Over time, the layers in your garden bed will gradually break down and create a nutrient-rich growing medium. As this happens, you’ll notice the height will start to drop - keep it topped up with alternating layers of organic matter to keep the process going. Tips for maintaining Your no-dig garden Mulch, mulch, and more mulch! Mulching is going to replace digging. This is the key to successful no-dig gardening, and is how you enrich soil, suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Regularly add layers of mulch, including leaf litter, wood chips, straw, grass clippings and compost. Keep mulch pulled back from plant stems, especially seedlings. Rotate your crops each season to prevent nutrient depletion, and minimise the risk of disease and pests building up in the soil. Don’t overwater your garden. As your soil will retain more moisture, you won’t need to water as often - overwatering could cause the soil to compact down. Continue composting kitchen scraps and garden waste to maintain a steady supply of compost for your no-dig garden. Your organic waste is such a valuable resource - don’t throw it out, compost it yourself to make the most of all those nutrients! Images:Image1 by woodleywonderworks (licensed under CC BY 2.0.)Image 2 & 3 by Samuel Mann (licensed under CC BY 2.0.)Image 3 by hardworkinghippy : La Ferme de Sourrou (licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0.)

Learn which plants help each other and which don't. A practical guide to companion planting for NZ home gardeners. Bugg.

They are a favourite flower of many and for good reason. With some care and strategic pruning, a rose bush will reward you with bloom after bloom year after year.Winter cleanupThere are a number of pests and diseases that can affect roses and the old saying ‘a pinch of prevention is worth a pound of cure’ is as true now as it was then. Garden hygiene plays an important role in prevention. Picking up the affected leaves once they have dropped or even better, picking them off the plant at the first sign can prevent reinfection the next growing season or stop an infection or infestation spreading.For deciduous trees and shrubs – like roses – winter dormancy when the leaves are dropped, gives us an opportunity to get rid of any overwintering pests or disease spores that may be lingering. Scale, fungal spores and insect eggs are the main culprits we are targeting with winter sprays.Lime Sulphur is useful if your roses are refusing to drop their leaves and go dormant. Be warned it is messy and smelly and you have to take care to avoid getting it on any surrounding evergreen plants as it works by burning. It’s very important to apply it 2-3 weeks before or after any other sprays as it can react with other spray residue and cause damage.The standard winter sprays are a mineral spraying oil and a copper fungicide. The oil smothers any scale and insect eggs still present and the copper kills any fungal spores and acts as a protectant, especially following pruning. In the past, it was recommended to mix and apply the two sprays together but current best practice is to spray them separately, 1 week apart.Reapply once a month from June – August.PruningIt’s best to give your roses a prune after they are completely dormant, so we recommend to carry it out in July – mid AugustBefore you start pruning – run through your checklist:Is it a sunny dry day (a day that you would hang out your washing is a good indicator!) -It’s really important to avoid damp, overcast days because the cuts won’t seal and disease is more likely to enter through the wounds.Are your secateurs clean and sharp? Starting with sharp secateurs and resharpening as you go will make the job much easier on you and clean cuts will heal faster.Do you have some gloves and arm protection? Rose thorns can cause damage and infection so please cover up.When it’s time to prune – it can be hard to know where to start! For bush roses and standard roses:Start with the 3 D’s -dead, damaged or diseased branches.Once you have removed all of those, look at the overall structure. You are aiming for an open vase shape where plenty of light can get into the middle. Aim to remove any weak or spindly branches and any branches that cross over other branches. Aim to reduce the overall height of the bush by one third. Cut your remaining branches back to a viable bud that is outward facing. When you cut, make them at a 45 degree angle just above the bud. Ideally the bottom of the angled cut should be level with the top of the bud and angled away from the bud.If you are cutting any branches thicker than a pencil, we recommend that you apply a pruning paste to seal the cut.For climbing roses:Remove the 3-D's, the weak and spindly and the crossing branches. The aim is always to get the branches to run as horizontal as possible as the rose will produce flowers right along the length of the stem, rather than just at the tip.After pruning apply a copper spray to help seal and protect the cuts.When the rose starts to come into leaf, apply a rose spray to protect the soft young foliage from aphids and Black spot. This can be applied as a preventative regularly through the growing season or as a treatment at the first sign of pest or disease.Good healthA healthy rose is less likely to be infected by fungal diseases and insects. These will often arrive when a plant is stressed. Environmental stresses include too much or too little water and food so choose a slow release food that is appropriate for a flowering plant (these will have a higher K or potassium level than a general fert) that will provide a small dose of food regularly and ensure you follow instructions for when to reapply.If you have an irrigation system, it is better to water deeply two or three times a week than a small amount every day. Choose an irrigation system that directs the water onto the surrounding soil rather than over the foliage. Spread mulch around the rose to help prevent moisture loss. Utilise products like liquid seaweed or kelp pellets to help improve the health of the rose plant and the soil it grows in. These should be used in conjunction with food, not as a replacement for it.When a rose is in bloom, remove the spent blooms regularly to encourage more flowers to form.Keep your rose happy and healthy and it can live for many years, providing blooms for you to enjoy.Written for bugg® by Kelly Jean Reyland of Garden Advice NZwww.gardenadvice.co.nzShop the collectionSecateurs & Pruning Shears

Growing your own fruit is such a pleasure. The flavour and texture of sun ripened fruit, picked at peak ripeness and eaten within a few days just cannot be beaten. The flavour of supermarket purchased fruit simply does not compare.Eating home grown fruit brings us back in touch with the seasons too. We are so used to being able to get what we want when we want it, we don’t stop to think about the cost of transporting fruit around the world. We start to think that fruit that was picked unripe and shipped or flown chilled from a distant country, treated with sprays to prevent pests and diseases coming into our country, to be transported around the country in trucks and finally arriving in the supermarket, mealy textured and bland flavoured is the best it can be. No. It’s not! Local fruit in season and picked at its peak and enjoyed quickly is the way nature intended it.There are plenty of options available for you to grow your own fruit. A small section or even a balcony is not a problem, as long as it gets a good amount of sun. If you live in a part of NZ with a cooler climate, this will restrict your choices but won’t stop you.What are the options available?Citrus family – excellent source of fruit, particularly in autumn and winter when options are few. They are excellent options for a pot or in the ground. All of them are frost tender when young but many will harden with age so they can tolerate a reasonable frost. Even so, citrus are generally restricted to glass house growing in the southern regions of NZ. Lemons, mandarins, oranges, limes, grapefruit, tangelo... the list goes on.Stone fruit – the summer fruit we look forward to with anticipation every year. Peaches, plums, apricots, nectarines, cherries. Many of these need a number of chilling hours below a certain temperature and then a long hot summer but there are options available that have a low chill requirement.Pip fruit – the fruit bowl stalwarts – Apples and pears, and the less common Quince and Nashi. Berry fruit – The delicate soft fruits we pay a fortune for every Christmas time and we have frozen in the freezer year-round. The pay back on one of these plants is pretty short once they kick into fruit production. They are fragile to handle and have a short shelf life which explains their hefty price tag. Raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, currants, grapes and more.Sub-tropical fruit – these are definitely restricted by climate, being frost tender but well worth the effort if you can grow them at your place. Passionfruit, Avocado, Tamarillo, Feijoa and more.You can always try planting in a warm microclimate; on a north facing wall, under the eaves and covered with frost cloth if you are really keen but your winters are colder. Or make use of a glass house if you have one.Where to plant?Any fruiting plant needs ideally full day sun. Half day of afternoon sun will do in a worst-case scenario but the number of fruit produced will be reduced. Soil needs to be well drained with plenty of organic matter such as compost. If you have sandy soil, a generous amount of organic matter mixed into the hole and regular -at least annual- application as a mulch surrounding the tree will help improve the nutrient value within the soil and the water holding capacity.If you have heavy clay soil or a clay pan layer, the same applies. In this case organic matter helps the tiny clay particles clump together creating more spaces for air and water to move through the soil.In the case of a clay pan layer, I would definitely recommend planting the tree up on a raised soil mound to help keep the main roots above where water will collect on top of the pan layer. Alternatively, you can look at your options for planting in pots.In any garden situation – adding organic matter regularly will help improve your soil condition.You might think in the small sections that are so common these days, there is no room for fruit trees. Think again! You have a few options available to you.If you have some limited garden beds available to you, there is quite a reasonable range of naturally smaller growing fruit trees that lend themselves to small spaces. Apple Croquella, a naturally topiary shaped tree, Apple Crimson Spire, a columnar growing tree that is very narrow and upright in form or Peach Pix-zee, a dwarf Peach on a 60cm standard trunk are some options for you to look into.Growing in pots is a great option with plenty of choices for colours, shapes and finishes. Where garden spaces are limited, pots increase where you can grow. There are compact varieties of fruit trees, and some traditional varieties are available grown on dwarf rootstocks which are better suited to container growing. When choosing a pot, bigger is better. A 40 or 50L (big enough to hold a big bag of potting mix) pot is a practical choice avoiding the need to pot on to a bigger size in the near future. During the warmer months you may need to water every day. A smaller pot will dry out faster.When planting a fruit tree in a pot you can add up to a quarter of the overall amount of compost to the premium potting mix in order to help improve water retention. This is better for the tree and helps save you time.Root restriction bags are relatively new on the market. Available in different sizes, these specially designed bags create a fibrous root ball rather than the traditional widespread root ball and it helps to dwarf the trees' growth and prevent any damage by roots to buildings or infrastructure. These bags also have the bonus of enabling you to safely dig the tree up and relocate it if you move. Excellent news for renters!If space is limited, look at your vertical spaces. Is there a sturdy wall or fence in a sunny position that you can espalier a tree against? This art of training the trees to grow horizontally or in a fan shape has been practiced for centuries. It not only looks great but is a very efficient way to grow fruit.If you are wondering when to plant fruit trees, most garden centres will get their new seasons open ground grown trees in winter when the trees are dormant and can safely be lifted, bagged and transported. Container grown trees are becoming more available in autumn which tend to be smaller and easier to get home. Ideally anytime that isn’t during the heat of summer is fine for planting.It’s worth doing some research first before you buy a tree or plant. Ensure the intended position gets enough sun, improve the soil if you need to and ensure you have enough space for the tree or plant to grow to its potential size. Some fruit trees need a little more care than others in the form of a spray program to keep pests and diseases under control. If you aren’t prepared to do that, look for varieties of fruit that have a higher natural resistance to pests and diseases. If you are interested in growing your own fruit, I highly recommend that you go into your local garden centre and have a chat with a knowledgeable staff member who can start you on your journey to delicious, sun-ripened home-grown fruit.By Kelly Jean Reylandwww.gardenadvice.co.nz

It’s time to plant Spring.There is nothing quite like the sight of a sea of spring bulbs to lift your spirits and make you smile. Indeed, as our temperatures fall, I’ve particularly been enjoying the pictures flooding social media as Keukenhof’s 7 million spring bulbs burst into bloom on the other side of the world, in The Netherlands.Spring bulbs are the ultimate in resilience, patience and reward. Bulbs are tucked into the soil in autumn and during winter their brave green tips appear through the soil and just as the winter feels like it’s never going to finish, they burst into bloom. Bright, cheerful and brave, announcing that spring is on its way.Daffodils, Tulips, Freesia, Crocus, Anemones, Ranunculus.....the list goes on. They all flower at slightly different times, so if you do a little research, you can have a show of blooms that extends from winter right through into early summer as one variety starts as another finishes. If you particularly like one type of flower or you love to pick them for your home or for gifts, stagger your planting of that one variety, planting a number every two weeks and you’ll find you can extend your blooms (and picking) by a month to six weeks. Another way you can enjoy different spring bulbs is to create a ‘bulb lasagna’ where different bulb varieties are planted above each other in layers of colour. As the top layer of blooms finish flowering, the next ones come through and so on. Perfect for pots, small sections or specific colour combinations.Many of our Spring bulbs are originally alpine plants from Europe, perfectly suited to the cold and if you have ever wondered why they flop in warm rooms – that's why! They have their own unique antifreeze that protects them from even a late winter dump of snow. They may look fragile, but they are tough! This is why many of the bulbs perform best with a winter chilling period and can be the reason why bulbs won’t flower the following the season in warmer areas. In these areas, it’s best to chill them for 12-16 weeks before planting when you initially buy them and if you want them to flower again, it’s best to lift them and chill them again before replanting. Alternatively, you can treat them like annuals and plant new ones each year.When you are buying from a store, choose firm bulbs – check the packets before you buy! - any soft or squishy ones are a sign of disappointment to come.Choose the right situation for them to flourish. Full sun to part shade – think of the classic images of masses of daffodils or bluebells under bare deciduous trees – are best and well drained soil is a must.If drainage is an issue at your place, plant them in pots.Spread mulch or compost over them annually to help improve the soil and feed with a bulb fertiliser that has higher levels of phosphorus and calcium to support bulb development. The best time to do this is when the green tips start poking through and while it seems counter intuitive, once the flowers finish and start trying to set seed. It’s at this point when the bulb starts to store resources for the following season. Allowing the foliage to die back, without cutting them off, enables as many nutrients as possible to be stored for next years flowers. It is also a good idea to cut off any seed heads as they start to develop as these will divert precious energy from being stored.At planting time, the general rule is to plant them 3-4 times their height, deep. For example, a 4cm high bulb would be planted 12-16cm deep. Many of the bulb packets come with a handy planting depth guide on the back of the label. If you want your flowers to stand up tall on strong stems, please take care to plant them at the correct height. Flowers that flop over at the first hint of a breeze do not put on a good show!There is a wide world of bulbs, with many treasures that are not easy to find. Many just aren’t grown commercially anymore so your best source is other gardeners, markets and often church fairs! If you have a hankering for the stunning Alliums you see on social media, they are no longer allowed to be imported due to the threat of pests and diseases to NZs sizable onion export crop. There are limited numbers already here, new ones just can’t be brought in. If you are on the hunt, search online or ask other keen gardeners – most are very happy to share or pass on where to find these gems!A garden with interest in every season is a garden you’ll actively enjoy all year round. Take the time now to plant bulbs for spring colour. You’ll be so glad you did!By Kelly Jean Reyland of Garden Advice NZ.www.gardenadvice.co.nz