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Everything. Actually. But I will make a disclaimer – that does depend on the type of mulch you use! They are not all created equal! We’ll get to that later in the blog though. Good mulch improves the quality of the soil, maintains soil moisture levels and helps to suppress weeds. It does take work as it needs to be renewed at least annually but the benefits definitely outweigh the negatives! With a hot dry summer forecast, in my view the best thing we can do for our garden is to ensure it has a thick layer of mulch spread all over it to help maintain that precious soil moisture and keep the plant roots cool which helps to make our plants more resilient to the stresses of drought. Applying mulch essentially mimics what happens in nature. Leaves and other plant material fall on the soil, creating a protective layer which breaks down over time and improves the soil. Soil that is left exposed to the elements is vulnerable to erosion from both wind and rainfall, soil moisture evaporates easily and plant roots are exposed to fluctuations in temperature. Weeds are also more likely to spring up and compete. None of these are helpful things. The usual mulch options have their pros and cons. Choose wisely! Bark - a favourite due to its natural look and the different grades and colours. It also has the benefit of eventually breaking down and improving the soil. Beware of using freshly chipped bark, the initial breaking down process actually draws nitrogen out of the soil, affecting your plants. Choose carefully and look for an already aged bark supply. If there are already perennial weeds in the garden before you lay the mulch, it is helpful to lay a layer of cardboard which will help to suppress the weeds from coming up and through the mulch. Bark is a convenient and economical option with bagged or bulk options freely available. Compost - You might think, isn’t that just soil? But no. Compost is green matter in its final stages of breaking down into Humus which is a super helpful type of organic matter to have in your soil. If you make your own compost, you have the benefit of controlling what goes into it. Ensure if you are buying it that you get it from a reputable source. Be wary of council collected green waste compost that can have noxious weeds or weed killer residues in it. Your soil will love you if you spread this around on a regular basis – even better if you make your own to use! Pea straw - Not always easy to get hold of in urban areas and not ideal for windy areas but if you have access and your spot is sheltered, it is an effective choice. Ensure that it is laid in a thick layer. Be aware that you may get pea seedlings popping up but these are easily removed. Pea straw absorbs water and holds it. Weed mat - it hit peak popularity when the stones and native grass ‘low maintenance’ gardens were popular in the late 90’s. Unfortunately, many people thought using black polythene was a cheaper and suitable substitute. Please don’t do this!!! Soil is a living organism so it needs to breathe and get food and water. Woven, permeable weed mat has its place in steep areas where mulch will just slide off or under stones for both weed suppression and water retention. But even if the soil can breathe and get rain water, it doesn’t get any organic matter to rebuild and refresh. This doesn’t leave the soil in the best condition over time. There are now more natural options available such as coir fibre (the fibre off the outside of a coconut) which holds soil moisture but will break down over time. This is a great option where new plants will eventually grow and cover the soil up but it just needs some cover in the short term. Stones - this is a decorative mulch rather than one that improves the soil. Ensure that you use a layer of permeable weed mat so the stones don’t work into the soil. Weeds will still drop into the stones but will pull out easily. The issue with stones is that they will absorb heat during the day and release it during the night. This can be a helpful thing for creating a microclimate for tender plants but it does also make a hot and dry spot, hotter and drier. Rainfall is more likely to evaporate off the rocks before it gets down to the soil. Choose its position carefully. Larger leaves are much easier to remove when they fall on the stones, rather than many small leaves that settle in amongst the stones. Commercial mulch products - These are the best of both worlds, combining food and protection for the soil. Expensive for large areas as you can usually only buy it as a bagged product. Convenient for getting home and moving around the garden because it is a bagged product. Can be used in large pots as well. Improves the soil as well as provides protection and retains moisture. A highly recommended option if the expense isn’t a barrier. Mulch, like the natural process it mimics, is best applied in several applications throughout the year, this gives the mulch a chance to breakdown before the next layer is laid. It is also vital that the soil is damp before the mulch is laid. As a general rule, the soil moisture level will stay the same after the mulch is laid, so thoroughly dampen or lay it after a decent rain. Apply it in spring or autumn when there is plenty of soil moisture and it will retain it throughout the drier months. In order for it to be truly effective, a thick layer of at least 5 cm is needed but ensure that you don’t bury the trunk or stem of the plants / trees. Keep the mulch back from touching it where possible. This helps avoid collar rot setting in and other issues that can keep a plant /tree from thriving. Help your plants stay happy and healthy and thrive through summer and save yourself time and money on watering! Mulch is a win-win situation. Written for bugg® by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)Shop the collectionPlant & Soil Care

Summer can be a glorious time of year when flowers bloom prolifically in the garden. But how do we ensure that our plants keep flowering over the months of summer and into autumn? Watering and feeding your plants are both important to ensure the plant is as happy and healthy as it can be and we’ll talk a little more about feeding later in the blog. The best thing you can do to ensure lots of flowers is to deadhead your plants. When we go back to the basics of what a plant's purpose in life is – it is essentially to reproduce. The main way plants reproduce is by creating seeds. These seeds develop after a flower is pollinated. Once the seeds have matured, the plant will have a unique method that disperses the seeds so they can go on to grow into the next generation of that plant. Once seed has been set and dispersed the plant's life cycle has been fulfilled. In the case of what we call ‘annuals’ - colour plants like pansies or petunias we buy in punnets or as ‘potted colour’ that typically only last a season or two - they will then start to die to create room for the next generation to grow up. This is where deadheading comes in. If you remove the flower as soon as it dies or wilts, you have stopped seeds being created and the plant’s life cycle hasn’t been completed. The plant then produces another flower to produce seed and complete its life cycle. This is how you get a flowering plant to keep on flowering throughout the summer and into autumn and avoid having to plant another round of plants. Keep dead heading right through summer and into autumn. Now plants that we call shrubs, perennials and biennials – essentially anything that lives longer than a year- don't die after setting seed but the principle generally remains the same. Remove the flower before it sets seed and the plant produces another flower to try again. There are a few exceptions, some roses only have one intense flush of blooms and once they finish, that is it for the year. Dead heading won’t extend their flowering season. Rambling roses for example, only have a single flush. Most modern roses are bred to be ‘repeat flowering’ which means they will produce new flowers about every 5-6 weeks if you deadhead them. So if you are choosing a new rose to plant, keep an eye out for ‘repeat flowering’ on the label, this will help lengthen the summer flower show in your garden. Top tip! If you want roses to be flowering in your summer garden for a wedding or event – deadhead and feed them six weeks out from the date. Another top tip! When you dead head, don’t just pull off the petals, you need to cut it off further down the stem. The rule of thumb for roses is to cut just above the first set of 5 leaves. A further benefit of dead heading is that you are essentially giving your plant a light prune as you do it. This encourages the plant to ‘bush out’ or form more side branches which give you more stems for flowers to form on. It is usually worth sacrificing the first flowers on the plant when you plant it, pinching the main growth tip out. This causes it to be a shorter, bushier plant with lots of branches and flowers, rather than a taller plant with fewer side stems and fewer flowers. If your plant has gotten quite ‘leggy’ or straggly during the growing season, a hard cut back will sacrifice the current flowers but you’ll end up with a bushier plant with many new blooms on it. A little bit of planning goes a long way with colour, so consider what colour you already have in your garden and see where and when the gaps are. One of the easiest ways to ensure you have some colour in the garden all year round, is to visit a public park or garden at least once a month and see what is flowering at that time and then pop into a garden centre and see if it is available in store. (Take a photo of the plant with you!) Whenever possible choose long flowering plants to include in your garden. Options like salvias, perennial petunias, federation daisies and gaura are all fabulous options that flower right through to the first frosts- and they will generally last a few years, making them good value for money. Flowering takes a lot of energy for the plant to produce, energy that is diverted from plant growth and root growth. Ensure that you feed your plant regularly so it has all the resources it needs to grow and thrive – as well as flower beautifully and repeatedly. Be strategic in what you feed with. If you are encouraging flowers, a food that has a higher K (Potassium) rating in its NPK rating than Nitrogen is a good place to start. A rose fertiliser is always a safe option for flowering plants as it is going to be formulated to encourage lots of blooms. A fertiliser that is high in Nitrogen (N) is going to encourage green leafy growth but not flowers. This is ok to feed with after it’s finished flowering but not if you want it to perform in summer! Liquid fertiliser is a great option for a quick boost, but use it in conjunction with a granular or slow release fertiliser - it’s a bit like an energy drink for plants - utilised immediately but used up really quickly so they have to be reapplied about every two weeks if they are your main form of fertiliser. Again, check the NPK rating so you are using something appropriate for your expected results. If your plants are in pots, they will need slow release fertiliser applied approximately once a season. Slow release fertiliser is safe for plants in pots as it won’t burn roots. Always check the fertiliser packet as it will state if it is not recommended for use in pots. Remember that potting mix is a case of you get what you pay for and the more expensive mixes will have longer lasting fertiliser in it. Make sure you read the packet (it will state anywhere from 3 to 12 months), as you are the main source of food for the plant after the fertiliser in the mix runs out. Water plays an important role too. If a plant is allowed to dry out to the point of stress or wilting regularly, the plant will think it is going to die and it will ‘bolt to seed’. Essentially it rushes to flower so it can set seed before it dies, to go on and create another generation. Avoid this situation as even if you deadhead the flower, the plant is already at death's door. When you water, avoid getting the moisture on the leaves to help prevent issues with fungal diseases which will affect the plant health and therefore the number of flowers. You can have a wonderful display of colour right throughout summer and into autumn, by getting the basics of feeding and water right and utilising dead heading to use the plants natural processes to your advantage. A little bit of regular effort will reap an ongoing reward of colour! Written for bugg® by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

There are many ways to feed your plants; the main thing to get right is to use the appropriate fertiliser for the results you want to achieve. In general, fertilisers are split into three categories: Organic based (animal manure, composted green waste, seaweed etc.), granular or compound (man made), and liquid fertiliser. Each has it's own pros and cons, so it's important to pick the right food for the right situation. Organic Based Improving your physical soil is always going to be a good thing - healthy soil = healthy plants. Organic based materials play a crucial role here. You're mimicking natures own process of improving the soil with plant debris, dead animals etc. breaking down into the soil. Organic matter breaks down to humus over time and humus improves soil fertility, holds on to nutrients, increases water holding capacity, improves soil structure and feeds soil organisms. Organic matter is better applied regularly in smaller amounts as it can be high in nitrogen - particularly animal manure. One thing to be aware of is organic matter generally needs to be aged. For example, fresh manure is very strong and can burn, and fresh bark chips actually take nitrogen from the soil to break down. Granular or compound Granular or compound fertilisers are a helpful tool to help meet specific food requirements for growing plants. They have been formulated into tomato fertiliser or bulb fertiliser for example. They will have different NPK ratings stated on the packet which can direct your choice - we’ll talk more about these later in the blog. Within this category, granular fertiliser will release as soon as it comes into contact with water. Therefore it's important to follow guidelines for application as too much can burn delicate plant roots and get washed away. This is called leaching - where the fertiliser is washed away before the plant can use it, ending up in streams and rivers, contributing to pollution and wasting your money. Granular fertiliser is too strong to use in containers and will usually state it is not recommended on the packet. Compound or slow release fertiliser is a safer option in that it is formulated to release gradually over a stated time period, say 3 months, providing food ‘little and often’ so the plant can use it up and avoid leaching. It is also safe for use in pots. These man made fertilisers will feed the plant but will not improve your soil. Liquid fertiliser Liquid fertiliser are a great tool to get nutrients into a plant quickly. Whether applied to the soil or directly over the leaves, plants will take it up as an instant boost. The downside is that while it is taken up quickly it is also used up quickly so you have to apply regularly, about every 2 weeks if that is the only way you are feeding. Also a safe option for plants in pots. If you are regularly adding organic materials to your garden, feeding with some man made fertiliser specific to what you are growing and supplementing with a liquid feed, you will have happy, healthy plants that produce well and flower well. What is NPK on my fertiliser bag and why is it important? NPK represent the 3 main micronutrients that plants require - Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) The numbers represent the percentages of these nutrients within the fertiliser. There will often be macronutrients and trace elements also added, depending on the plants requirements. Macro nutrients (sulphur, calcium, magnesium etc.) are crucial but generally in tiny amounts compared to the NPK. What do they do? Nitrogen The building block for growing new stems and leaves It helps to make leaves green and helps them photosynthesize Phosphate Root development It helps a plant convert nutrients into growth Aids in fruit and flower development Potash Helps fruit and flower development Helps plants resist drought and tolerate stress Encourages strong stems and well developed flowers Regulates plant growth so harvested fruit is fully formed, high quality and lasts longer It hardens up cell walls of soft, young growth It accelerates ripening, increasing flavour and sweetness It is vital to remember that plants need a combination of all of these nutrients, don’t just look at one as ‘most important’. You can have too much of a good thing so while you can apply nutrients separately, it is safest to apply a balanced fertiliser that has been formulated to tick all the boxes. What to choose? Look at what you are growing, what you want to achieve, and whether it's growing in a container or pot. If you’re growing in the garden, you can use any options. If you are in a pot, you need to look at a slow release or a liquid option. If you want lots of flowers, rose fertiliser is a good option. If you are growing fruit, there are specific citrus and berry fruit formulations and if you are growing a lot of each, it’s worthwhile having them but you can get by using a general fruit fertiliser. With vegetables, it depends on what you’re growing - green leafy veges need mainly nitrogen but veges like cauliflower and broccoli are actually a flower head and need some potassium in the soil. Using a crop rotation system is a helpful way to manage the nutrient use by the plants, see last months blog for more info. Feeding is incredibly important for growing a strong healthy garden. Be strategic and work at improving your soil over time with organic matter, using man made options to target nutrients when needed. Written for bugg® by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

The physical prep work is done! Hopefully, if you've read our blogs on crop rotation and successional planting, you'll be inspired to do some planning before you start planting. Plan out the plants you want to grow, where you will plant them in your garden, when to plant them so they will be ready when you want them, if there is preserving you want to do, and how many plants you need to get your necessary harvest. Before you set foot in a garden centre, I highly recommend that you have the list of plant varieties and numbers you need in your hand and stick to it! I say this because when you are surrounded by all sorts of different seedlings and varieties, it's very easy to get carried away and over enthusiastic and end up with a trolley of plants you do not have space for or were not planning to grow. The same has to be said for scrolling through seed catalogues. The gardeners equivalent of a candy store! It’s a really good idea to check out the maturity times for the vegetables that you want to plant. Particularly if you are planting from seed or if you want a specific crop ready at a specific time. New potatoes ready for Christmas dinner is a good example. The fastest waxy potatoes take approx. 70 days, the slower growers 90-100 days. Check the variety you want to grow and plan backwards from your date. Allow a few extra weeks to allow for unforeseen circumstances. Waiting for Labour weekend to plant spuds for Christmas dinner leaves no margin for error! If you are planting from seed you need to allow for a few more weeks before you can plant out. You have more flexibility in how many you sow at a time (which is great for successional planting) but you need to allow for losses. You can start earlier if you are starting your seeds inside or in a glasshouse which is a bonus. The main cause of drama when planting your summer garden, is the timing of when you can start to get your plants in the ground. At the first sign of sunshine in August some people are in to buy their tomatoes and other tender veges to get them planted. In warmer, temperate areas that is a safe option but in most areas of NZ, the soil is still too cold and there is too much of a risk of frost and cold, windy weather. Planting outside too early generally means being very careful and intentional about covering plants up at any sign of bad weather or more commonly, a repeat trip to the garden centre for replacement seedlings. Labour weekend has for a long time been the time to get your vege garden planted. The risk of frost is then minimal, soil and overnight temperatures are much warmer and there are longer daylight hours to get out in the garden to plant and tend to it. On the topic of successional planting again, it’s a good plan to avoid planting everything at Labour weekend. Plant some seedlings and then wait 2 or 3 weeks and plant some more so you can have a consistent supply of vegetables coming ready throughout summer. You can keep planting every few weeks up until the start of Autumn with some of the faster growing plant varieties. A few tips when planting out your garden... When buying seedlings or sowing seeds, it's always a good idea to ‘harden off’ your seedlings. If seedlings have been inside or in a warm, sheltered spot, they can be very soft and not able to withstand wind and colder temperatures. Put them outside in a semi sheltered spot during the day for a few days for their outer layer to harden up before planting them out. Stake tall growing plants such as tomatoes and support climbers such as peas and beans so you avoid plants snapping or plants sprawling over other plants. You can also make the most of vertical spaces and climb cucumbers, pumpkins and melons vertically over archways or up support panels. When planting seeds, the general rule is to sow them at double the diameter of the seed, deep. It also pays to cover with netting as birds love to pull out young seedlings. Thinning your plants is well worth the effort to get good results for your harvest. Root crops are always best to sow directly into the ground where you will grow them. They tend to grow wonky if they are transplanted. It can be very tempting to try different and unusual varieties, and it is great to try new things, but for the majority of your plants, stick to your tried and true varieties and just introduce a few new ones to test out each year before you commit to a large harvest that you might not like the flavour or texture of. If you are impatient or kids are helping with the gardening, the smaller varieties will be ready to harvest much sooner. Cherry tomatoes and lunchbox or bullhorn peppers instead of regular tomatoes and capsicums are good examples of these. They are also good to snack on when out in the garden! Be prepared to protect your plants in the event of unseasonal cold, windy or very wet weather. It doesn’t have to be pretty - just protective! Don’t forget to follow a crop rotation - read this blog for more details. Written for bugg® by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

Essentially different vegetables are grouped into families and each growing season you plant each 'family' of vegetables in a different position in the garden. So you split your garden up into zones and you plant a family of vegetables in a new zone each year, with a minimum of 4 years before you plant the same crop back in that zone. We do this for a number of reasons. Different 'families' have different nutritional needs and different pests / diseases that affect them. Plants using the same nutrients each year can lead to deficiencies in the soil. Planting the same plants in the same spot year after year increases the chance of disease and pest building up in that spot. Planting in different spots each year limits the spread of disease in particular. The legume (peas and beans) family actually draws nitrogen from the air and stores it in nodules on their roots, replenishing the soil. If you leave the roots in the soil to rot down after harvest, the nitrogen is released for the next crop to use. If you remove the roots with the plant, the nitrogen will be lost. What are the families? Root crops: carrots, beetroot, parsnip, onions, garlic, leeks etc. Brassicas and greens: cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage salad greens, lettuce, spinach, silver beet etc. Fruiting vegetables: tomatoes, potatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, courgette, corn etc. Legumes: peas & beans How do I carry out crop rotation? We recommend that you keep a record of what you plant each year so you can keep track of your rotation. Keep the zones well separated if possible. You will need the same number of zones or beds as the years in your rotation. If space is an issue in your garden, you can always incorporate container growing into your plan so you can have more zones that you can rotate plants through. Container growing also has the benefit of starting with fresh potting mix if you have had a particularly bad year with pests or diseases. Zone 1 - Legumes Zone 2 - Brassicas/Greens Zone 3 - Fruiting veges Zone 4 - Root veges The following year, Legumes are planted in Zone 4 and the other 3 families move up into the zone before them. The families move through each of the zones over the 4 years and in the 5th year, the legumes are back to zone 1. Why are they rotated this way? Year one/ Zone one - Legumes. They fix nitrogen into the soil and help improve the soil structure. Year two/ Zone one - Brassicas/Greens. They need plenty of nitrogen and use up most of what the legumes leave behind. Year three/ Zone one - Fruiting Veges. They need some nitrogen along with phosphate and potassium. Year four/ Zone one - Root veges. They need more phosphate and potassium than nitrogen. Year five/ Zone one - back to legumes to replenish the soil with nitrogen. Crop rotation does take a little planning. It’s also working smarter not harder. Vegetables will grow more successfully if they are in soil that has the best nutrient levels for what they need. And the saying ‘an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure’ is very true. If we can avoid pests and diseases building up in the soil, we lessen the need for pest and disease control and the risk of failed crops. Sounds like a win-win! Written for bugg® by Kelly Jean Reyland of Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

Successional planting is the secret to avoiding drowning in cabbages one week and then none for months on end. Here are some easy ways to help spread your harvest… Don't plant everything at once: Instead of planting all your veggies at the same time, start small. Begin with a couple of plants – say, a few cabbages. Then, two weeks later, plant a few more. Repeat and keep on repeating during the growing season. This way, you'll always have some veggies at different stages of growth. Ready-made mixed seedlings: If you're short on time, you can grab mixed punnets of seedlings. They're a variety pack of veggies where you get two or three types of plant. Buy one every few weeks and plant them. If you can’t get a mixed punnet in the variety you want, you can always split the punnet amongst some gardening friends! Take advantage of different growth rates: Not all veggies grow at the same rate. Some are quite slow to mature. Use this to your advantage. For example, different types of potatoes have different harvest times. Plant some early cropping (70-90 days) and some main cropping (90-120 days), and you'll have a longer potato harvest. Grafted plants and different varieties: Grafted plants, like tomatoes, will grow bigger and faster. They've got a faster growing root system. They will give you a head start on your regular veggie harvest. Smaller growing varieties such as cherry tomatoes or bullhorn peppers will always grow and ripen faster than a standard or beefsteak tomato or regular sweet pepper, so plant a selection of varieties for a longer harvest. Plan your preserving: If you're into bottling or pickling, think about how much you need to process at once. Some things, like berries and tomatoes, can be frozen until you've got enough. But gherkins? They need to be ready to go in a short space of time so make sure you plant enough plants at the same time to ensure you get the amounts that you need. Works for fruit too: Different fruit varieties will have different maturity times, choose carefully and you can have a consistent supply of fruit through the summer. It works for some berries too. Different varieties of strawberries are affected by daylight length. Some fruit around Christmas time when the days are longest and some are ‘day neutral’ where they will fruit as long as temperatures are warm enough. Successional planting takes a bit of thought, but it's so worth it. You'll be eating fresh fruit and veggies consistently through the season without the hassle of a feast followed by a famine. Happy planning! By Kelly Jean Reyland of Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

Choosing from the seed stands or a seed catalogue at a garden centre is a bit like a kid in the candy store. So many colours! So many choices! What to choose?! Not only do you have far more choice in varieties but sowing from seed is the best value for money by a landslide. You can get anywhere from 4 seeds to 200 seeds in a packet for $4-5. Seed sowing takes more time and more effort but the results are worth it! If you are keen to try successional planting, seed sowing can easily help you plan out your harvest. After you have made the decision on what varieties to plant, here at the key points you need to know about growing from seed. Sowing in Soil: Some plants like carrots, parsnips, turnips, peas, and beans are best sown directly in the soil because they are root crops or don't like being disturbed. Ensure the soil is well-prepared, free-draining, and rich in compost for good seed germination. Create shallow channels for the seeds and fill them with seed raising mix to provide an ideal environment for germination. A rule of thumb is to plant the seeds at a depth of 2-3 times their thickness in the mix. Sow the seeds at the recommended spacing mentioned on the seed packet, cover them with soil, and gently firm the surface to ensure seed-to-soil contact. In colder regions or early in the season, you can use cloches to protect the seeds from bad weather conditions and cooler temperatures. Always label what you sowed and the date! Sowing in Containers (trays, punnets, or pots): Use a high-quality seed raising mix, which provides good drainage while holding enough moisture for seed germination. If reusing containers, make sure they are thoroughly cleaned to prevent the spread of soil fungal diseases. You can either sow multiple seeds in each cell and thin them later or sow several seeds in a larger container and transplant them once they have 2 true leaves. (True leaves are the second set of leaves that appear) Plant the seeds at a depth of 2-3 times their thickness. Label what they are and when they were sowed Keep the mix consistently damp but not overly wet until germination is complete, which typically takes 1-3 weeks for most species. Covering with some glass, a polythene cloche, or even newspaper can help maintain moisture and temperature. Place the containers in a warm, sunny spot during winter/early spring or in a shaded area during summer. After germination, remove covers and provide adequate ventilation. Keep the young seedlings moist and ensure they receive sufficient light. After 2-3 weeks, the young seedlings will be ready for transplanting into the garden. If you have germinated and grown the seedlings inside, it’s important to harden them off before exposing them to the elements overnight. Do this by sitting them outside in a sunny spot during the day and bring them inside at night for about a week before putting them outside overnight. This will help their outside layer to toughen up. Why aren’t my seeds germinating or what is wrong with them? Seeds not germinating or deformed seedlings can result from a number of things such as overly wet or dry conditions, extreme temperatures, wrong planting depth, soil issues, fungal diseases, pests like slugs and snails, and insufficient light. Make sure you read the back of the packet and follow the recommended planting guidelines and environmental conditions for each type of seed. Use fresh seeds. Open seed packets may have reduced germination rates, especially with certain plant varieties like lettuce, parsnips, celery, leeks, and onions. Following these guidelines will help you start your garden from seeds successfully and navigate any issues that may occur during the germination process. It's all about giving them the right conditions, a little TLC, and they'll be growing Shop our range of seeds, or quality products for seed raising & propagation. By Kelly Jean Reyland of Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)Shop the collectionSeed Raising & Potting

Are you interested in a natural, sustainable way to boost plant health and enhance soil fertility in your home garden? Introducing Effective Microbes, often referred to as “EM”. EM is a natural solution that works wonders in your soil, in turn bringing so many benefits to your plants. Learn all about the magic of effective microbes, and how they can benefit your entire garden ecosystem! What are Effective Microbes? In simple terms, effective microbes are beneficial microorganisms found naturally in the environment that can be applied as inoculants. These tiny creatures include bacteria, fungi and yeasts that work together in a harmonious symbiotic relationship; when introduced into your garden they can have a profound impact on plant growth and overall soil health. Beneficial bacteria, fungi & yeasts First off, we have the beneficial bacteria. These little powerhouses colonise the soil and assist in nutrient cycling, making essential minerals and nutrients more accessible to plants. They also suppress harmful pathogens, which protect your plants from disease. Next we have the beneficial fungi. These fungal microorganisms form mycorrhizal associations with the roots of plants. In a mutually beneficial relationship, the fungi provides plants with water and nutrients, while the plants offer the fungi a source of energy. This partnership significantly enhances the plant's ability to absorb nutrients and water, improving its overall resilience and health. Lastly, the beneficial yeasts play a crucial role in promoting the fermentation process. These yeasts contribute to breaking down organic matter in the soil, which releases nutrients and creates an ideal environment for plant roots to flourish. Beneficial yeasts are what you would use to ferment waste in a bokashi system as well! Four ways to introduce EM into your garden Now that you’ve been introduced to the three main players in EM, let's explore a few easy ways to harness the power of EM in your garden… 1. Compost Tea Compost tea is a nutrient-rich liquid brewed from compost and water, infused with effective microbes. It acts as a natural fertiliser and is a powerful tool to protect your plants from diseases. To make compost tea, all you need is some quality compost, water, and aeration to facilitate microbial growth. Apply it to your garden's soil or foliage regularly for best results. 2. Worm Wee or Worm Tea The liquid that comes out of your worm farm is packed full of effective microbes that will enhance soil structure, and boost nutrient availability. Just remember to dilute it before you water it into the garden. 3. Fermented Plant Extracts Fermented plant extracts are concoctions made by fermenting plant materials such as leaves, fruits, or herbs. Try soaking banana skins, or seaweed if you can collect some from the beach, in fresh water and some effective microbes. These extracts are rich in nutrients and organic compounds that encourage plant growth and stimulate natural defense mechanisms. 4. Mulching with Effective Microbes Adding effective microbes (like EMNZ, or your bokashi liquid) to your mulch layer accelerates the decomposition process. As the mulch breaks down faster, it enriches the soil with nutrients and organic matter, providing an ideal habitat for the beneficial microorganisms. 5. Applying a store bought EM mixture Using EM1 Garden Concentrate or EM Garden Boost (with fish hydrolysate) as a foliar spray, or when you water - is a simple way to boost beneficial biology and add macro nutrients and trace elements to your soil. EMNZ's certified organic microbial inoculants provide a broad spectrum of microorganisms, enzymes, vitamins, and various organic acids - all essential components for healthy soils and therefore plants. They will also support the growth of other important components in the garden, including mycorrhizae, earthworms, and insects already living in your soil! Reap the benefits of EM in your garden: Improved soil fertility: Effective microbes play a vital role in enriching the soil with essential nutrients, ensuring your plants receive the nourishment they need to flourish. Enhanced plant health: By promoting nutrient absorption and disease suppression, these beneficial microorganisms strengthen your plants' immune systems and resilience. Sustainable gardening: Using effective microbes reduces the need for synthetic fertilisers and chemical pesticides, leading to a more eco-friendly and sustainable garden. Harnessing the power of effective microbes is a simple but effective way to nurture your garden. Whip up some compost tea or homemade seaweed spray, and let these tiny superheroes work their magic in your garden. Your plants will thank you with a bounty of vibrant blooms, lush foliage, and a thriving ecosystem! Images used in this article show the difference between treated vs. untreated roots & grass when using EMNZ Effective Microbe products. 

Dahlia flowers may have been considered old fashioned once upon a time, but these days many young gardeners are getting into bidding wars over these bold blooms. The blushy diva Cafe au Lait started the trend with brides-to-be, leaving florists and farmers flapping to keep up with demand. Now the everyday gardener is getting on board, and there seems to be no other flower that has captured our hearts quite like the dahlia has. Garden dahlias are unique in the flower world as they have the ability to come in such a range of colours and shapes. This is due to the fact that dahlias are octoploids, meaning they have eight sets of chromosomes, whereas most plants only have two. This great diversity has generated a collector's phenomenon among gardeners and a corresponding surge in tuber sales. If you're growing dahlias this year, you may be eager to try propagating them to increase your stock and save yourself some money. I promise it's not as hard or complicated as it seems; there are three main methods to propagate a dahlia, which I will demonstrate in this article. Propagation from division One of the easiest ways to propagate your dahlia is to divide the tubers. This requires you to dig up your dahlia tuber clumps in the winter, once the plant has gone dormant. Carefully lift your clump from the soil and leave it to dry before storing. In the spring, the tubers will naturally begin to 'wake up' with increased temperatures, and the eyes will begin to swell. At this time, you can begin to divide your tubers. To do this: Take your clump of tubers and use a sharp knife or secateurs to divide the clump. You may choose to cut the clump in half, quarters, or even individual tubers. Ensure each new clump of tubers or individual tuber has a section of the neck and crown intact. The neck connects the tubers together, while the crown is where the eye is located. A new shoot will grow from the eye, and if you are missing the neck or the crown from your division, it will not be viable. This is why dividing in the spring is the preferred option, as the eyes become more prominent and easier to see. Plant the tuber directly in the garden after the first frost or pre-sprout in potting mix. Propagation by Cutting The next way to propagate dahlias is by taking stem cuttings. Dahlias grown from cuttings will flower and form a new clump of tubers by the end of the season. Most competition show dahlias are propagated from stem cuttings, as it is much easier to control their growth when compared to a tuber propagated dahlia. The colour and vibrancy of the flower are said to be more intense when grown from cuttings. To do this: Take your clump of tubers or an individual tuber and lay them flat in a tray or pot. Cover with an aerated soil mix with added grit (pumice, sand or perlite). Dampen your soil mix but make sure it is not soaking wet. The tubers are prone to rotting and do not have the ability to use water until they grow roots and leaves. Place the tray indoors in a warm spot until the eye begins to sprout, this could take up to three weeks for some varieties. Check the moisture of the soil frequently. You can water lightly if it becomes too dry, but generally you will not need to water until the new shoot emerges. Once the shoot forms at least three sets of true leaves, you can take your cutting. Using a sharp pair of scissors, snip the stem at the base of the tuber. Remove the bottom set of leaves from your cutting, this is where the roots will grow. Dip in a rooting hormone if preferred, and place inside a pot using a cutting mix (potting soil with added grit). Water and place a clear bag over the top of the pot to keep up humidity and prevent the leaves from wilting. Leave in a warm area out of direct sunlight and keep moist. Your cutting should root in four to six weeks. During this time, it is important to be patient, I know it can feel tempting to pull the cutting out to see if roots have formed, but you could cause damage by doing this. Instead, check at the bottom of the pot to see if you can spot any roots. Once roots have formed, you can transplant the cutting to grow on before planting it in the garden. Propagation from seed Finally, there is propagation by seed. This has become an increasingly popular way to propagate dahlias thanks to flower farmer and breeder Erin Benzakein of Floret Farm, who has made information accessible and fun. Seed propagation will give you a brand new hybrid variety every time, and while some plants grown from seed may carry traits from the parent, this isn't a guarantee, and they can end up looking completely different. The added bonus of seed propagation is that it can be a cheaper option when compared to buying tubers. To do this: 1. Harvest dahlia seed heads in autumn once they turn brown and dry, or alternatively, purchase a packet of seed. 2. Sow directly on top of a good quality seed raising mix and sprinkle with a light layer of vermiculite, as dahlia seeds require light to germinate. 3. Place in a warm position indoors or on a heat mat until germination occurs, which should take 10–14 days. 4. Once germinated, carefully prick out seedlings into individual pots to grow on until established enough to be transferred into the garden in late spring. 5. Keep pots protected from frost as seedlings are tender. I hope you feel inspired to propagate your dahlias this spring. I'm sure you will be surprised by how little time and effort it takes to produce so many dahlia plants for you to enjoy in the garden. Happy propagating, friends! Thank you to Elly Keen @daydream.green for writing this blog for bugg®