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There are many ways to feed your plants; the main thing to get right is to use the appropriate fertiliser for the results you want to achieve. In general, fertilisers are split into three categories: Organic based (animal manure, composted green waste, seaweed etc.), granular or compound (man made), and liquid fertiliser. Each has it's own pros and cons, so it's important to pick the right food for the right situation. Organic Based Improving your physical soil is always going to be a good thing - healthy soil = healthy plants. Organic based materials play a crucial role here. You're mimicking natures own process of improving the soil with plant debris, dead animals etc. breaking down into the soil. Organic matter breaks down to humus over time and humus improves soil fertility, holds on to nutrients, increases water holding capacity, improves soil structure and feeds soil organisms. Organic matter is better applied regularly in smaller amounts as it can be high in nitrogen - particularly animal manure. One thing to be aware of is organic matter generally needs to be aged. For example, fresh manure is very strong and can burn, and fresh bark chips actually take nitrogen from the soil to break down. Granular or compound Granular or compound fertilisers are a helpful tool to help meet specific food requirements for growing plants. They have been formulated into tomato fertiliser or bulb fertiliser for example. They will have different NPK ratings stated on the packet which can direct your choice - we’ll talk more about these later in the blog. Within this category, granular fertiliser will release as soon as it comes into contact with water. Therefore it's important to follow guidelines for application as too much can burn delicate plant roots and get washed away. This is called leaching - where the fertiliser is washed away before the plant can use it, ending up in streams and rivers, contributing to pollution and wasting your money. Granular fertiliser is too strong to use in containers and will usually state it is not recommended on the packet. Compound or slow release fertiliser is a safer option in that it is formulated to release gradually over a stated time period, say 3 months, providing food ‘little and often’ so the plant can use it up and avoid leaching. It is also safe for use in pots. These man made fertilisers will feed the plant but will not improve your soil. Liquid fertiliser Liquid fertiliser are a great tool to get nutrients into a plant quickly. Whether applied to the soil or directly over the leaves, plants will take it up as an instant boost. The downside is that while it is taken up quickly it is also used up quickly so you have to apply regularly, about every 2 weeks if that is the only way you are feeding. Also a safe option for plants in pots. If you are regularly adding organic materials to your garden, feeding with some man made fertiliser specific to what you are growing and supplementing with a liquid feed, you will have happy, healthy plants that produce well and flower well. What is NPK on my fertiliser bag and why is it important? NPK represent the 3 main micronutrients that plants require - Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) The numbers represent the percentages of these nutrients within the fertiliser. There will often be macronutrients and trace elements also added, depending on the plants requirements. Macro nutrients (sulphur, calcium, magnesium etc.) are crucial but generally in tiny amounts compared to the NPK. What do they do? Nitrogen The building block for growing new stems and leaves It helps to make leaves green and helps them photosynthesize Phosphate Root development It helps a plant convert nutrients into growth Aids in fruit and flower development Potash Helps fruit and flower development Helps plants resist drought and tolerate stress Encourages strong stems and well developed flowers Regulates plant growth so harvested fruit is fully formed, high quality and lasts longer It hardens up cell walls of soft, young growth It accelerates ripening, increasing flavour and sweetness It is vital to remember that plants need a combination of all of these nutrients, don’t just look at one as ‘most important’. You can have too much of a good thing so while you can apply nutrients separately, it is safest to apply a balanced fertiliser that has been formulated to tick all the boxes. What to choose? Look at what you are growing, what you want to achieve, and whether it's growing in a container or pot. If you’re growing in the garden, you can use any options. If you are in a pot, you need to look at a slow release or a liquid option. If you want lots of flowers, rose fertiliser is a good option. If you are growing fruit, there are specific citrus and berry fruit formulations and if you are growing a lot of each, it’s worthwhile having them but you can get by using a general fruit fertiliser. With vegetables, it depends on what you’re growing - green leafy veges need mainly nitrogen but veges like cauliflower and broccoli are actually a flower head and need some potassium in the soil. Using a crop rotation system is a helpful way to manage the nutrient use by the plants, see last months blog for more info. Feeding is incredibly important for growing a strong healthy garden. Be strategic and work at improving your soil over time with organic matter, using man made options to target nutrients when needed. Written for bugg® by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

WHAT TO PLANT THIS MONTH October is a busy month when it comes to planting… If you’re anything like us, you’ll be (impatiently) counting down the days until you can plant out those heat-loving summer crops! But be patient and try to wait until the soil has really warmed up enough before getting them in the ground - for much of the country, this is around Labour Day / late October. In the meantime, you can continue to successively plant / sow veggies that your household enjoys; potatoes, cauliflower, broccoli, peas, beans, carrots, beetroot, spinach, rocket, and lettuce are some popular picks for spring. In the herb garden you can plant basil, coriander, chives, parsley and dill once the risk of frost has passed. Around Labour weekend (you might have to wait a bit longer if you live in a colder area), you can plant or sow the following directly into your garden beds: capsicums, chillis, cucumbers, sweet corn, melons, corgettes, pumpkins and tomatoes. Or you can tray sow them indoors now - use a heatpad or place them in a warm, sunny spot. Even though some of these seedlings are likely available in your local garden centre already, try to resist the urge to plant heat-loving veggies outdoors until the soil warms up a bit more! If you can’t wait until the end of the month, make sure any young seedlings are protected with a cloche. Remember to harden off your seedlings before planting them out; leave the seedling trays outside for a few days before transplanting. IN THE FLOWER GARDEN For a vibrant display of colour, plant sunflowers, cosmos, cornflower, borage, gerbera, zinnia, lobelia, marigold, petunia, sweet pea and begonia. Continue planting summer flowering bulbs - dahlia and gladioli. Stake your dahlias and taller perennials (the stake you use should be roughly two-thirds the height of the fully matured plant). Use an all purpose fertiliser or plant tonic to feed your flowering annuals and perennials. Plant more wildflowers! Sow them near your veggies to encourage beneficial pollinators. TASKS THIS MONTH... You’ve probably started to notice hoards of hungry slugs and snails out looking for food; they’re especially attracted to brassicas and leafy greens. Apply Quash Slug & Snail Control to prevent them munching on your seedlings, or sprinkle some natural NZ Wool Mulch around the base of plants to deter them. Neem is another great natural option - Neem Oil is an excellent organic choice. Prune back existing mint, thyme and sage plants to promote fresh new growth in time for summer. Keep feeding hungry crops: some great options are seaweed sprays (learn how to make your own here), OceanFert, EM1 Garden Concentrate, Compost Boost +, and Rootella. All of which nourish the soil and give your plants essential nutrients to sustain them throughout the growing season. Collect organic matter to use as mulch in your garden beds: seaweed, leaves, cardboard, manure etc. From the sounds of it, we’re in for a particularly hot summer. That means now is the best time to get a garden water tank set up. Make the most of these spring rains, so you have plenty of water collected to keep your garden going once the hot weather hits. Look out for aphids and white cabbage butterfly caterpillar as they will also be actively looking for food. Use a tunnel or net cover to help keep them at bay. We’ve also heard of this simple but clever trick: make your own white butterfly out of paper and place it in your garden. Apparently white butterflies are territorial, it may help to deter them! Give it a go and let us know if it works for you…

The physical prep work is done! Hopefully, if you've read our blogs on crop rotation and successional planting, you'll be inspired to do some planning before you start planting. Plan out the plants you want to grow, where you will plant them in your garden, when to plant them so they will be ready when you want them, if there is preserving you want to do, and how many plants you need to get your necessary harvest. Before you set foot in a garden centre, I highly recommend that you have the list of plant varieties and numbers you need in your hand and stick to it! I say this because when you are surrounded by all sorts of different seedlings and varieties, it's very easy to get carried away and over enthusiastic and end up with a trolley of plants you do not have space for or were not planning to grow. The same has to be said for scrolling through seed catalogues. The gardeners equivalent of a candy store! It’s a really good idea to check out the maturity times for the vegetables that you want to plant. Particularly if you are planting from seed or if you want a specific crop ready at a specific time. New potatoes ready for Christmas dinner is a good example. The fastest waxy potatoes take approx. 70 days, the slower growers 90-100 days. Check the variety you want to grow and plan backwards from your date. Allow a few extra weeks to allow for unforeseen circumstances. Waiting for Labour weekend to plant spuds for Christmas dinner leaves no margin for error! If you are planting from seed you need to allow for a few more weeks before you can plant out. You have more flexibility in how many you sow at a time (which is great for successional planting) but you need to allow for losses. You can start earlier if you are starting your seeds inside or in a glasshouse which is a bonus. The main cause of drama when planting your summer garden, is the timing of when you can start to get your plants in the ground. At the first sign of sunshine in August some people are in to buy their tomatoes and other tender veges to get them planted. In warmer, temperate areas that is a safe option but in most areas of NZ, the soil is still too cold and there is too much of a risk of frost and cold, windy weather. Planting outside too early generally means being very careful and intentional about covering plants up at any sign of bad weather or more commonly, a repeat trip to the garden centre for replacement seedlings. Labour weekend has for a long time been the time to get your vege garden planted. The risk of frost is then minimal, soil and overnight temperatures are much warmer and there are longer daylight hours to get out in the garden to plant and tend to it. On the topic of successional planting again, it’s a good plan to avoid planting everything at Labour weekend. Plant some seedlings and then wait 2 or 3 weeks and plant some more so you can have a consistent supply of vegetables coming ready throughout summer. You can keep planting every few weeks up until the start of Autumn with some of the faster growing plant varieties. A few tips when planting out your garden... When buying seedlings or sowing seeds, it's always a good idea to ‘harden off’ your seedlings. If seedlings have been inside or in a warm, sheltered spot, they can be very soft and not able to withstand wind and colder temperatures. Put them outside in a semi sheltered spot during the day for a few days for their outer layer to harden up before planting them out. Stake tall growing plants such as tomatoes and support climbers such as peas and beans so you avoid plants snapping or plants sprawling over other plants. You can also make the most of vertical spaces and climb cucumbers, pumpkins and melons vertically over archways or up support panels. When planting seeds, the general rule is to sow them at double the diameter of the seed, deep. It also pays to cover with netting as birds love to pull out young seedlings. Thinning your plants is well worth the effort to get good results for your harvest. Root crops are always best to sow directly into the ground where you will grow them. They tend to grow wonky if they are transplanted. It can be very tempting to try different and unusual varieties, and it is great to try new things, but for the majority of your plants, stick to your tried and true varieties and just introduce a few new ones to test out each year before you commit to a large harvest that you might not like the flavour or texture of. If you are impatient or kids are helping with the gardening, the smaller varieties will be ready to harvest much sooner. Cherry tomatoes and lunchbox or bullhorn peppers instead of regular tomatoes and capsicums are good examples of these. They are also good to snack on when out in the garden! Be prepared to protect your plants in the event of unseasonal cold, windy or very wet weather. It doesn’t have to be pretty - just protective! Don’t forget to follow a crop rotation - read this blog for more details. Written for bugg® by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

Essentially different vegetables are grouped into families and each growing season you plant each 'family' of vegetables in a different position in the garden. So you split your garden up into zones and you plant a family of vegetables in a new zone each year, with a minimum of 4 years before you plant the same crop back in that zone. We do this for a number of reasons. Different 'families' have different nutritional needs and different pests / diseases that affect them. Plants using the same nutrients each year can lead to deficiencies in the soil. Planting the same plants in the same spot year after year increases the chance of disease and pest building up in that spot. Planting in different spots each year limits the spread of disease in particular. The legume (peas and beans) family actually draws nitrogen from the air and stores it in nodules on their roots, replenishing the soil. If you leave the roots in the soil to rot down after harvest, the nitrogen is released for the next crop to use. If you remove the roots with the plant, the nitrogen will be lost. What are the families? Root crops: carrots, beetroot, parsnip, onions, garlic, leeks etc. Brassicas and greens: cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage salad greens, lettuce, spinach, silver beet etc. Fruiting vegetables: tomatoes, potatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, courgette, corn etc. Legumes: peas & beans How do I carry out crop rotation? We recommend that you keep a record of what you plant each year so you can keep track of your rotation. Keep the zones well separated if possible. You will need the same number of zones or beds as the years in your rotation. If space is an issue in your garden, you can always incorporate container growing into your plan so you can have more zones that you can rotate plants through. Container growing also has the benefit of starting with fresh potting mix if you have had a particularly bad year with pests or diseases. Zone 1 - Legumes Zone 2 - Brassicas/Greens Zone 3 - Fruiting veges Zone 4 - Root veges The following year, Legumes are planted in Zone 4 and the other 3 families move up into the zone before them. The families move through each of the zones over the 4 years and in the 5th year, the legumes are back to zone 1. Why are they rotated this way? Year one/ Zone one - Legumes. They fix nitrogen into the soil and help improve the soil structure. Year two/ Zone one - Brassicas/Greens. They need plenty of nitrogen and use up most of what the legumes leave behind. Year three/ Zone one - Fruiting Veges. They need some nitrogen along with phosphate and potassium. Year four/ Zone one - Root veges. They need more phosphate and potassium than nitrogen. Year five/ Zone one - back to legumes to replenish the soil with nitrogen. Crop rotation does take a little planning. It’s also working smarter not harder. Vegetables will grow more successfully if they are in soil that has the best nutrient levels for what they need. And the saying ‘an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure’ is very true. If we can avoid pests and diseases building up in the soil, we lessen the need for pest and disease control and the risk of failed crops. Sounds like a win-win! Written for bugg® by Kelly Jean Reyland of Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

September is a particularly exciting month for us here in the southern hemisphere - the start of a new season... spring! It may still be a bit chilly out there, but the days are getting longer and the warmer months are officially within sight. In the garden, we're really starting to gear up for a busy season of growth. There's plenty to do - more than can fit in one guide! - but read on for some September staples. WHAT TO PLANT THIS MONTH Time to sow some seeds! You can sow carrots and parsnips directly into your garden bed. Before planting, it’s a good idea to dig about 30cm into the soil to remove any stones or other debris. If you live in a warmer area you can also sow beetroot directly into the ground. Peas can be sown directly into the garden once soil temps are regularly above 4°C. Keep sowing successively (at 2 week intervals) for a continuous harvest. Sow lettuce, radishes, silverbeet, and spring onions successively (at 2-3 weekly intervals) to enjoy a continuous supply. Sow bok choy, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, leeks, and courgette into trays. Sow summer veggies indoors or in a greenhouse: tomatoes, chillies, capsicums, and eggplants. Once the risk of frosts has passed in your area, plant sprouted seed potatoes. It’s recommended not to replant potatoes in the same area of the garden where they have previously been grown (ideally use a 4 year crop rotation system, but every 2 years should be OK if space doesn’t allow for this). IN THE FLOWER GARDEN Start planting dahlia & gladioli once the risk of frosts has passed. If you’re growing dahlias this year, have a read of this guide on dahlia propagation, written for us by Elly from @daydream.green. The blog touches on 3 methods of propagation: by division, from cuttings, and from seed. Lots of great, practical dahlia info & advice - click here to read. Divide herbaceous perennials such as foxglove and delphinium. These should be split up once the clumps become too large; this refreshes the plant and enhances flowering. Plus you get more plants to use around the garden! Dig up and divide clumps into as many sections as you can, ensuring each section still has a decent amount of new shoots and roots. The older centre of the clump can be disposed of. TASKS THIS MONTH... • Refresh the soil in your container gardens before re-planting. The soil mix in pots should be changed every 1-2 years, and spring is an ideal time to do this. Note; don’t use regular garden soil in your pots! Use a potting mix that has good drainage and offers a good balance of nutrients. • September is a good time to sow new lawns. For a prickle-free lawn this summer, spray now for onehunga weed & broadleaf weeds with a dedicated prickle weed killer. • Sow some wildflower seeds flowers near your veggie garden to attract beneficial insects - these “good” bugs will prey on some of the “bad” bugs. Herbs that flower through a long season such as fennel, dill, parsley, and coriander are also great for this purpose. • Feed your berry plants every couple of weeks with Organic Plant Food +. • Keep on top of weeding!

Successional planting is the secret to avoiding drowning in cabbages one week and then none for months on end. Here are some easy ways to help spread your harvest… Don't plant everything at once: Instead of planting all your veggies at the same time, start small. Begin with a couple of plants – say, a few cabbages. Then, two weeks later, plant a few more. Repeat and keep on repeating during the growing season. This way, you'll always have some veggies at different stages of growth. Ready-made mixed seedlings: If you're short on time, you can grab mixed punnets of seedlings. They're a variety pack of veggies where you get two or three types of plant. Buy one every few weeks and plant them. If you can’t get a mixed punnet in the variety you want, you can always split the punnet amongst some gardening friends! Take advantage of different growth rates: Not all veggies grow at the same rate. Some are quite slow to mature. Use this to your advantage. For example, different types of potatoes have different harvest times. Plant some early cropping (70-90 days) and some main cropping (90-120 days), and you'll have a longer potato harvest. Grafted plants and different varieties: Grafted plants, like tomatoes, will grow bigger and faster. They've got a faster growing root system. They will give you a head start on your regular veggie harvest. Smaller growing varieties such as cherry tomatoes or bullhorn peppers will always grow and ripen faster than a standard or beefsteak tomato or regular sweet pepper, so plant a selection of varieties for a longer harvest. Plan your preserving: If you're into bottling or pickling, think about how much you need to process at once. Some things, like berries and tomatoes, can be frozen until you've got enough. But gherkins? They need to be ready to go in a short space of time so make sure you plant enough plants at the same time to ensure you get the amounts that you need. Works for fruit too: Different fruit varieties will have different maturity times, choose carefully and you can have a consistent supply of fruit through the summer. It works for some berries too. Different varieties of strawberries are affected by daylight length. Some fruit around Christmas time when the days are longest and some are ‘day neutral’ where they will fruit as long as temperatures are warm enough. Successional planting takes a bit of thought, but it's so worth it. You'll be eating fresh fruit and veggies consistently through the season without the hassle of a feast followed by a famine. Happy planning! By Kelly Jean Reyland of Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

Choosing from the seed stands or a seed catalogue at a garden centre is a bit like a kid in the candy store. So many colours! So many choices! What to choose?! Not only do you have far more choice in varieties but sowing from seed is the best value for money by a landslide. You can get anywhere from 4 seeds to 200 seeds in a packet for $4-5. Seed sowing takes more time and more effort but the results are worth it! If you are keen to try successional planting, seed sowing can easily help you plan out your harvest. After you have made the decision on what varieties to plant, here at the key points you need to know about growing from seed. Sowing in Soil: Some plants like carrots, parsnips, turnips, peas, and beans are best sown directly in the soil because they are root crops or don't like being disturbed. Ensure the soil is well-prepared, free-draining, and rich in compost for good seed germination. Create shallow channels for the seeds and fill them with seed raising mix to provide an ideal environment for germination. A rule of thumb is to plant the seeds at a depth of 2-3 times their thickness in the mix. Sow the seeds at the recommended spacing mentioned on the seed packet, cover them with soil, and gently firm the surface to ensure seed-to-soil contact. In colder regions or early in the season, you can use cloches to protect the seeds from bad weather conditions and cooler temperatures. Always label what you sowed and the date! Sowing in Containers (trays, punnets, or pots): Use a high-quality seed raising mix, which provides good drainage while holding enough moisture for seed germination. If reusing containers, make sure they are thoroughly cleaned to prevent the spread of soil fungal diseases. You can either sow multiple seeds in each cell and thin them later or sow several seeds in a larger container and transplant them once they have 2 true leaves. (True leaves are the second set of leaves that appear) Plant the seeds at a depth of 2-3 times their thickness. Label what they are and when they were sowed Keep the mix consistently damp but not overly wet until germination is complete, which typically takes 1-3 weeks for most species. Covering with some glass, a polythene cloche, or even newspaper can help maintain moisture and temperature. Place the containers in a warm, sunny spot during winter/early spring or in a shaded area during summer. After germination, remove covers and provide adequate ventilation. Keep the young seedlings moist and ensure they receive sufficient light. After 2-3 weeks, the young seedlings will be ready for transplanting into the garden. If you have germinated and grown the seedlings inside, it’s important to harden them off before exposing them to the elements overnight. Do this by sitting them outside in a sunny spot during the day and bring them inside at night for about a week before putting them outside overnight. This will help their outside layer to toughen up. Why aren’t my seeds germinating or what is wrong with them? Seeds not germinating or deformed seedlings can result from a number of things such as overly wet or dry conditions, extreme temperatures, wrong planting depth, soil issues, fungal diseases, pests like slugs and snails, and insufficient light. Make sure you read the back of the packet and follow the recommended planting guidelines and environmental conditions for each type of seed. Use fresh seeds. Open seed packets may have reduced germination rates, especially with certain plant varieties like lettuce, parsnips, celery, leeks, and onions. Following these guidelines will help you start your garden from seeds successfully and navigate any issues that may occur during the germination process. It's all about giving them the right conditions, a little TLC, and they'll be growing Shop our range of seeds, or quality products for seed raising & propagation. By Kelly Jean Reyland of Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)Shop the collectionSeed Raising & Potting

Are you interested in a natural, sustainable way to boost plant health and enhance soil fertility in your home garden? Introducing Effective Microbes, often referred to as “EM”. EM is a natural solution that works wonders in your soil, in turn bringing so many benefits to your plants. Learn all about the magic of effective microbes, and how they can benefit your entire garden ecosystem! What are Effective Microbes? In simple terms, effective microbes are beneficial microorganisms found naturally in the environment that can be applied as inoculants. These tiny creatures include bacteria, fungi and yeasts that work together in a harmonious symbiotic relationship; when introduced into your garden they can have a profound impact on plant growth and overall soil health. Beneficial bacteria, fungi & yeasts First off, we have the beneficial bacteria. These little powerhouses colonise the soil and assist in nutrient cycling, making essential minerals and nutrients more accessible to plants. They also suppress harmful pathogens, which protect your plants from disease. Next we have the beneficial fungi. These fungal microorganisms form mycorrhizal associations with the roots of plants. In a mutually beneficial relationship, the fungi provides plants with water and nutrients, while the plants offer the fungi a source of energy. This partnership significantly enhances the plant's ability to absorb nutrients and water, improving its overall resilience and health. Lastly, the beneficial yeasts play a crucial role in promoting the fermentation process. These yeasts contribute to breaking down organic matter in the soil, which releases nutrients and creates an ideal environment for plant roots to flourish. Beneficial yeasts are what you would use to ferment waste in a bokashi system as well! Four ways to introduce EM into your garden Now that you’ve been introduced to the three main players in EM, let's explore a few easy ways to harness the power of EM in your garden… 1. Compost Tea Compost tea is a nutrient-rich liquid brewed from compost and water, infused with effective microbes. It acts as a natural fertiliser and is a powerful tool to protect your plants from diseases. To make compost tea, all you need is some quality compost, water, and aeration to facilitate microbial growth. Apply it to your garden's soil or foliage regularly for best results. 2. Worm Wee or Worm Tea The liquid that comes out of your worm farm is packed full of effective microbes that will enhance soil structure, and boost nutrient availability. Just remember to dilute it before you water it into the garden. 3. Fermented Plant Extracts Fermented plant extracts are concoctions made by fermenting plant materials such as leaves, fruits, or herbs. Try soaking banana skins, or seaweed if you can collect some from the beach, in fresh water and some effective microbes. These extracts are rich in nutrients and organic compounds that encourage plant growth and stimulate natural defense mechanisms. 4. Mulching with Effective Microbes Adding effective microbes (like EMNZ, or your bokashi liquid) to your mulch layer accelerates the decomposition process. As the mulch breaks down faster, it enriches the soil with nutrients and organic matter, providing an ideal habitat for the beneficial microorganisms. 5. Applying a store bought EM mixture Using EM1 Garden Concentrate or EM Garden Boost (with fish hydrolysate) as a foliar spray, or when you water - is a simple way to boost beneficial biology and add macro nutrients and trace elements to your soil. EMNZ's certified organic microbial inoculants provide a broad spectrum of microorganisms, enzymes, vitamins, and various organic acids - all essential components for healthy soils and therefore plants. They will also support the growth of other important components in the garden, including mycorrhizae, earthworms, and insects already living in your soil! Reap the benefits of EM in your garden: Improved soil fertility: Effective microbes play a vital role in enriching the soil with essential nutrients, ensuring your plants receive the nourishment they need to flourish. Enhanced plant health: By promoting nutrient absorption and disease suppression, these beneficial microorganisms strengthen your plants' immune systems and resilience. Sustainable gardening: Using effective microbes reduces the need for synthetic fertilisers and chemical pesticides, leading to a more eco-friendly and sustainable garden. Harnessing the power of effective microbes is a simple but effective way to nurture your garden. Whip up some compost tea or homemade seaweed spray, and let these tiny superheroes work their magic in your garden. Your plants will thank you with a bounty of vibrant blooms, lush foliage, and a thriving ecosystem! Images used in this article show the difference between treated vs. untreated roots & grass when using EMNZ Effective Microbe products. 

Dahlia flowers may have been considered old fashioned once upon a time, but these days many young gardeners are getting into bidding wars over these bold blooms. The blushy diva Cafe au Lait started the trend with brides-to-be, leaving florists and farmers flapping to keep up with demand. Now the everyday gardener is getting on board, and there seems to be no other flower that has captured our hearts quite like the dahlia has. Garden dahlias are unique in the flower world as they have the ability to come in such a range of colours and shapes. This is due to the fact that dahlias are octoploids, meaning they have eight sets of chromosomes, whereas most plants only have two. This great diversity has generated a collector's phenomenon among gardeners and a corresponding surge in tuber sales. If you're growing dahlias this year, you may be eager to try propagating them to increase your stock and save yourself some money. I promise it's not as hard or complicated as it seems; there are three main methods to propagate a dahlia, which I will demonstrate in this article. Propagation from division One of the easiest ways to propagate your dahlia is to divide the tubers. This requires you to dig up your dahlia tuber clumps in the winter, once the plant has gone dormant. Carefully lift your clump from the soil and leave it to dry before storing. In the spring, the tubers will naturally begin to 'wake up' with increased temperatures, and the eyes will begin to swell. At this time, you can begin to divide your tubers. To do this: Take your clump of tubers and use a sharp knife or secateurs to divide the clump. You may choose to cut the clump in half, quarters, or even individual tubers. Ensure each new clump of tubers or individual tuber has a section of the neck and crown intact. The neck connects the tubers together, while the crown is where the eye is located. A new shoot will grow from the eye, and if you are missing the neck or the crown from your division, it will not be viable. This is why dividing in the spring is the preferred option, as the eyes become more prominent and easier to see. Plant the tuber directly in the garden after the first frost or pre-sprout in potting mix. Propagation by Cutting The next way to propagate dahlias is by taking stem cuttings. Dahlias grown from cuttings will flower and form a new clump of tubers by the end of the season. Most competition show dahlias are propagated from stem cuttings, as it is much easier to control their growth when compared to a tuber propagated dahlia. The colour and vibrancy of the flower are said to be more intense when grown from cuttings. To do this: Take your clump of tubers or an individual tuber and lay them flat in a tray or pot. Cover with an aerated soil mix with added grit (pumice, sand or perlite). Dampen your soil mix but make sure it is not soaking wet. The tubers are prone to rotting and do not have the ability to use water until they grow roots and leaves. Place the tray indoors in a warm spot until the eye begins to sprout, this could take up to three weeks for some varieties. Check the moisture of the soil frequently. You can water lightly if it becomes too dry, but generally you will not need to water until the new shoot emerges. Once the shoot forms at least three sets of true leaves, you can take your cutting. Using a sharp pair of scissors, snip the stem at the base of the tuber. Remove the bottom set of leaves from your cutting, this is where the roots will grow. Dip in a rooting hormone if preferred, and place inside a pot using a cutting mix (potting soil with added grit). Water and place a clear bag over the top of the pot to keep up humidity and prevent the leaves from wilting. Leave in a warm area out of direct sunlight and keep moist. Your cutting should root in four to six weeks. During this time, it is important to be patient, I know it can feel tempting to pull the cutting out to see if roots have formed, but you could cause damage by doing this. Instead, check at the bottom of the pot to see if you can spot any roots. Once roots have formed, you can transplant the cutting to grow on before planting it in the garden. Propagation from seed Finally, there is propagation by seed. This has become an increasingly popular way to propagate dahlias thanks to flower farmer and breeder Erin Benzakein of Floret Farm, who has made information accessible and fun. Seed propagation will give you a brand new hybrid variety every time, and while some plants grown from seed may carry traits from the parent, this isn't a guarantee, and they can end up looking completely different. The added bonus of seed propagation is that it can be a cheaper option when compared to buying tubers. To do this: 1. Harvest dahlia seed heads in autumn once they turn brown and dry, or alternatively, purchase a packet of seed. 2. Sow directly on top of a good quality seed raising mix and sprinkle with a light layer of vermiculite, as dahlia seeds require light to germinate. 3. Place in a warm position indoors or on a heat mat until germination occurs, which should take 10–14 days. 4. Once germinated, carefully prick out seedlings into individual pots to grow on until established enough to be transferred into the garden in late spring. 5. Keep pots protected from frost as seedlings are tender. I hope you feel inspired to propagate your dahlias this spring. I'm sure you will be surprised by how little time and effort it takes to produce so many dahlia plants for you to enjoy in the garden. Happy propagating, friends! Thank you to Elly Keen @daydream.green for writing this blog for bugg®