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Looking for the perfect gift to please your favourite gardener, farmer, or fisherman? Look no further than our handmade, sand-cast weathervanes. With 13 different designs to choose from, these premium aluminum and brass weathervanes are the perfect adornment for any house or shed. Plus they’re locally made right here in New Zealand!What’s a Weathervane?Apart from making an eye-catching feature, weathervanes (sometimes referred to as “wind vanes”) are used to tell the direction of the wind. This trusty invention has been around for over 2,000 years! To easily determine which direction the wind is coming from, simply take note of the direction the spinning arrow is pointing.The Production ProcessEach weathervane is crafted by hand using the traditional method of sand casting. This is a metal casting technique that dates back to ancient Egyptian times! To craft our weathervanes, molten aluminum is poured into a mold made from sand and allowed to set. Once removed from the mold, each product is then assembled by hand before being professionally powder coated in black for a long-lasting finish. The resulting product is rust-free, solid, and ready to last for generations to come! Each of our weathervanes have smooth running movement and are plate welded to the base stem for easy installation. Gubba’s weathervanes feature premium rust free materials including a Galvanised Steel stem and mounting plate, aluminum rods, and brass and aluminum castings. We package the weathervanes in a cardboard gift box inside another shipping box for peace of mind in transit.The DesignsOur range features 13 different designs, meaning there’s something for almost everyone. Keen fishermen are spoilt for choice with our Snapper, Trout, Whale, Marlin or Sailboat designs. Choose your favourite pet or farm animal, such as a classic rooster, cow, cat, dog or horse, or opt for our iconic Kiwi design for a touch of kiwiana style. For a traditional look the Arrow is also very popular.Whether it’s a gift for a loved one or a special touch for your own home, shed or batch, these premium weathervanes are sure to be a hit. They tick the box for both form and function, and bring all the benefits of locally made, quality craftsmanship. Browse the range below!Rooster WeathervaneSnapper WeathervaneArrow WeathervaneCat WeathervaneTrout WeathervaneMarlin WeathervaneHorse WeathervaneKiwi WeathervaneYacht WeathervaneWhale WeathervaneBull WeathervaneDog WeathervaneKangaroo Weathervane

Have you tried out a Sneeboer garden tool? As founder Arie Sneeboer used to say; “One who once has held a Sneeboer tool in his hands never wants anything else”. It really is buy once, buy well with these premium, hand-forged garden tools. But be warned - once you have one Sneeboer tool, you’ll be tempted to expand your collection!Over 100 Years of HistorySneeboer’s history dates all the way back to 1913, when Arie Sneeboer established a forging workshop in Bovenkarspel, a small town in the Netherlands. Arie’s forge began in a humble garden shed - but he was confident local growers and market gardeners were in need of quality tools that would last the distance. He was right, and the demand for Sneeboer garden tools soon spread!Thus Sneeboer was born and is still going strong over 100 years later. The company is currently run by the 3rd generation of the Sneeboer family (with the 4th generation preparing to take the reins soon!). The Sneeboer brand has become internationally renowned for their quality craftsmanship, with gardeners around the globe swearing by their wide range of stainless steel garden tools.The ProcessThe modern Sneeboer factory operates two forges. Coal is still used to power each of the four fires, with the family maintaining that this is the most effective method for forging. Their skilled master craftsmen use anvils to traditionally craft tools, and sledgehammers to shape the molten steel. The oldest of these hammers was made back in 1920, and is still in use today! Overall, the same techniques that were developed more than 100 years ago are still used now - contributing to the enduring quality and impressive reputation Sneeboer has maintained. Interestingly, Sneeboer personally trains each new member of staff; this is a detailed and lengthy process that can take up to 3 years. This is because instruction in the trade of traditional blacksmith is no longer widely available. It’s special to think of how Sneeboer is helping to keep the art of traditional hand-forging alive!The ToolsWe carry a wide range of Sneeboer’s quality stainless steel tools; there’s something for almost every task in the garden. Each one is forged by hand from quality stainless steel and paired with ash or cherry wood handles. Truly ready to “last a lifetime, and for generations to come!”. Learn more about a few of our top-selling Sneeboer tools below…Royal Dutch HoeSo useful is this garden hoe, it won an award at the 2013 RHS Chelsea Flower Show for Garden Product of the Year - a very impressive accolade! Sneeboer teamed up with English rose breeder John Scarman to create the Royal Dutch Hoe - a completely new tool at the time, which allows you to work and walk backwards. This leaves a fine tilth without footprints, reducing the chance of replanting weeds with your feet.Planting Trowel - Old Dutch StyleThis trowel will become your go-to tool for all planting tasks. Its sharp, rounded sides and pointed tip makes cutting through soil unbelievably easy. Perfect for planting bulbs, seedlings or small plants, for breaking up or turning soil, or for separating smaller perennials. Beloved British gardener Monty Don has proclaimed this as his favourite tool!WrotterThis traditional Dutch tool’s precisely angled head allows easy weeding around established plants. Easily push into the soil to remove the roots of deep and tap rooted weeds! Fun fact: "Wrotter" is an old Dutch word which means “Tough Worker”. We think this describes this useful tool perfectly.We have over 50 Sneeboer tools to check out - take a look! And next time you reach for your favourite Sneeboer, remember the years of history behind each and every design.

Watching wild birds enjoy your garden brings a special kind of happiness. It’s especially exciting to spot our stunning New Zealand natives thriving, such as Tui, Kereru, Fantail (Pīwakawaka) or Bellbird (Korimako). We think waking up to their vibrant chorus outside your window is an unbeatable way to start the day! One surefire way to coax more birds into your yard is to hang a bird feeder. It’s especially important to keep your feeders topped up throughout the colder months, as this is when naturally available food sources can become scarce. They will definitely appreciate the extra sustenance, and you’ll get to enjoy their company as an added bonus. Plus, birds visiting your garden will gobble up insects or bugs - making them a fantastic, natural form of pest control. A true win-win! Which feeder you choose depends on which birds you are wanting to attract to your garden. Different birds have different dietary needs, ranging from seed, nectar, insects & fruit. We have plenty of styles to choose from, along with a variety of seed, energy food, and nectar options to go with your feeder. Read on to find out which feeder & feed to choose. Wild Bird Seed & Seed FeedersA good bird seed mix is high in energy and rich in essential nutrients - great for keeping your local birds happy and healthy. Use seed to attract common garden birds such as chaffinch, silvereye, dove, goldfinch, greenfinch, pigeon, rosella, pheasant, sparrow, thrush or yellowhammer. Our premium Coarse and Fine bird seed mixes from Topflite provide a ton of health benefits, and are grown right here in NZ! Both are available in 1kg, 2kg, 5kg & 20kg bags. The Coarse seed is ideal for larger seed-eating birds, or for use in windier areas as it’s less likely to blow away. We also have a great Wild Bird Seed Mix from Tui, available in 1kg and 5kg sizes. Pair any of our wild bird seed mixes with the following popular feeders (plus more in our Wild Bird Feeders range)… Topflite Splash and Feed Platform - This handy hanging ceramic dish can be used for seed as well as fruit, or even as a bird bath!  Mason Jar Wild Bird Feeder - Super stylish, this glass feeder features 8 feeding ports, and there’s even a matching Mason Jar Bird Waterer available separately.  Premium Flip Top Wild Bird Seed Feeder - Super convenient, this feeder has a flip-top lid for easy filling, four feeding perches and a quick release base for simple cleaning.  Topflite Bird Bach - this cute little house-shaped feeder can also be used for fruit & energy food, as well as seed.  Topflite Lantern Feeder - a sweet & stylish seed feeder, built to last from earth-friendly bamboo.  Tui Antique Wild Bird Feeder - This attractive antique-look feeder features 3 seed feeding portals on the screen and 3 openings on the seed tray base. Seed bells Seed bells are another great and easy option for attracting birds such as chaffinch, goldfinch, greenfinch, pigeons, rosella, sparrow, and yellowhammer. Simply hang up and watch the birds flock in! These are great for encouraging that instinctive pecking action, providing both entertainment & nutrition aplenty. Our seed bell options include...  Tui Wild Bird Seed Bell Topflite Large Wild Bird Seed Cone Topflite Wild Bird Seed Bell High Energy FoodOur range of Topflite Energy Cakes, Truffles & Logs provide an immediate source of energy & protein, making them especially ideal during breeding season or throughout the winter months. Birds absolutely love these yummy vegetable oil treats; they come in flavours such as Blueberry, Peanut, Mealworm and Berry. Use them to attract birds such as silvereye, sparrow, thrush, waxeye, blackbird and yellowhammer. Our Energy Food options include… Wild Bird Energy Truffles - These can be served up in a Topflite Energy Truffle Feeder or a Topflite Truffle Twister Feeder. You can also put these out on your bird feeding platform, or even pierce them onto a stick or branch.  Wild Bird Energy Logs - Suitable for the Topflite Wild Bird Energy Log Feeder. Tip: Silvereye are particularly fond of the peanut flavoured Energy Logs!  Energy Cakes - Place these inside a Topflite Wild Bird Cake Feeder (or you can simply place them out on your dedicated bird table/feeding area!)  Energy Jumbo Log - A bigger version of the Wild Bird Energy Logs, pop one of these into your Topflite Energy Truffle Feeder or The Little Bird Feeder. A little goes a long way!  Topflite Wild Bird Energy Coconut feeder - a feeder & feed all in one! These coconut shells have been filled with nutritious peanut flavoured energy food. Plus once the energy food is finished, you can fill it up with seed or fruit.  Nectar If you’re wanting to attract NZ native birds into your garden, a nectar feeder & nectar mix is a good bet. Tui, Bellbird and Silvereye in particular are nectar feeding natives that will happily visit a feeder. Our premium quality Topflite Nectar Mix creates a honey & glucose based nectar, and has the added benefit of essential vitamins and minerals. Simply mix one part nectar powder to four parts water, and pop the mixture into one of our nectar feeders... Topflite Nectar Feeder Tui Nectar Feeder Fruit Feeders Many of our NZ native birds also love filling themselves up with fruit, including silvereye, tui and bellbird. Freshly cut up oranges, apples, pears, or bananas on a feeder or platform can attract these stunning native birds! Try using cut up fruit with one of these stylish fruit feeders…  Sophie Conran - Apple Bird Feeder Heart Sophie Conran - Apple Bird Feeder House Metalbird Bird Feede Metalbird Hanging Bird Feeder A few important bird feeding tips…  It’s a good idea to keep your feeders topped up year round (not just in winter) so your local birds know where to find it when they need it.  Try to top your feeders up in the morning, as birds do most of their feeding early in the day.  Hang your feeders up high, so your visiting birds are not vulnerable to predators while they feed. Don’t have many trees around? Take a look at our Wild Bird Feeding Station.  Make sure your water station or bird bath is topped up with fresh water throughout summer.  Clean out your bird feeders regularly (every few weeks) to prevent any harmful mold building up.  Do not use honey and water mixed together! Although birds love it, unfortunately so do bees - this can lead to disease among these precious pollinators.  Keep your bird seed dry - check out our Bird Seed Storage Tin.  Finally - remember to be patient! It may take some time for birds to find (and become comfortable) using your feeder. With repetition and a bit of time, they’ll soon be visiting your garden on the regular. Happy bird watching!

Wonderful worms! These squiggly, squirmy earth-dwellers can make some people squeamish. But they are the ultimate waste disposal experts, breaking down our refuse and transforming it into nutrient-rich castings that replenish and revitalise our soil. Starting a worm farm is a great method for diverting your organic household waste from landfill; read on to find out why & how to to start your own worm farm. Vermicomposting with Tiger Worms‘Vermicomposting’ is the use of worms for converting organic matter into a nutrient dense product known as vermicompost. In other words, worm farming! Here in New Zealand, we use Tiger Worms (Eisenia foetida). These worms have alternating red and yellow stripes along their bodies, hence the “tiger” name. These guzzlers can consume their body weight in food each day, making them perfect for worm farms and compost heaps. They live and feed close to the surface of the soil, and tend to stay in one area. How does it happen? The worms eat soft, moist organic materials (they like decaying food scraps, compost, manure, and even sewage), and pass them out as ‘vermicast’ (often referred to as worm castings), and liquid ‘worm tea’. Worm castings and tea are packed with valuable minerals and nutrients, conditioning the surrounding soil and making a near-perfect organic fertiliser that plants can easily absorb. Worm farming at homeCreating your own worm farm is a fantastic, efficient way to compost your kitchen scraps, diverting them from landfill & creating the perfect plant food for your garden. Once established, worm farms are relatively low maintenance - put your scraps in, and wait for the worms to do the work! Starting your worm farmThere are a number of different worm farm designs available - Hungybin, Subpod, and various tiered worm farm systems are popular options. Choose a sheltered, shady spot for your worm farm and start off with a bedding of shredded cardboard, compost, or coconut fibre for them to live in. You’ll want at least 250g Tiger Worms to get you going (that’s about 1000 worms). Use a worm blanket to keep them covered - place this over top of the food (beneath the lid). Worms are sensitive to light, so this allows them to come up to the surface to feed. You can also use a simple piece of cardboard as a worm blanket (but beware they may begin to eat this!). You also need to make sure your worms are kept nice and moist by sprinkling water over the worm blanket every so often. Make sure they’re not too wet though - your worm farm should not appear soggy. If it becomes too sodden, mix in some dried leaves or paper to keep things aerated & to improve drainage. Feeding your wormsHow much food you place in your worm farm will depend on how many worms you’re starting off with - start by feeding in moderation, and you’ll be able to adjust as you go. You can expect 1kg of worms to eat about 5 kg of food per week. Your worms will continue to breed, meaning the worm farm will be able to consume more over time. It can take a couple of months for your worm farm to reach full capacity; as a guide your Tiger Worm population will double their weight in about 4 months if conditions are ideal. Fun fact: worms will actually limit their breeding to the space & food available - how clever is that! A good place to start is providing your worms with a 3cm (approx.) layer of food every one to two days. If you notice the food isn’t being eaten, you may have overfed them - don’t keep adding more! Stop for a few days until they catch up, as your worms won’t like lots of rotting food sitting on top of them. Also remember to cut your scraps up into smaller pieces - this helps the worms digest faster and speeds up the process. Your worms will gobble up foods like egg shells, fresh fruits and vegetables, shredded paper or brown cardboard, coffee grounds, or tea bags. Try to give them a variety of foods, rather than just one type. Things to avoid feeding your worms… Spicy foods Meat Dairy Pasta or bread Oils and fats Onion or garlic Citrus or other acidic foods Cooked foods Shiny/glossy paper or cardboard …And you’re away!Now that you’re all set up, you can sit back and let the worms do the heavy lifting. The method of harvesting your worm castings and worm tea will vary, depending on the type of worm farm you have chosen. Once harvested, just remember to dilute your worm tea with water before using it as a liquid fertiliser, as it will be very concentrated. You can use your castings as a top dressing, a side dressing, or worked in to the soil. Worm castings improve soil aeration, drainage, and water retention. They contain all the essential nutrients that plants need and can be used on any type of plant without the risk of nutrient burn!  These wriggly little creatures are real powerhouses that have so many benefits to offer. With a little effort, you’ll be reducing your waste, recycling nutrients back into the soil, and enhancing soil quality for a thriving garden - so many wins. Happy worm farming Gubba Gardeners! P.s. Worm farming not for you, but still want the benefits for your garden? You can buy natural worm castings here.  

International composting week has us thinking about all things composting; compost bins, worm farms, bokashi… whatever method you choose, diverting your organic waste from landfill is fantastic, and comes with many benefits for both you and the planet.Unfortunately, an eye-watering 50% of the waste that goes to landfill here in Auckland is organic, meaning it could be composted and recycled back into the soil. All those valuable nutrients from your kitchen scraps are lost once trapped in landfill! And if that isn’t bad enough, this waste releases Methane as it anaerobically rots, a leading contributor to climate change. The scale of the problem can certainly seem overwhelming! But in fact there are many effective ways we can contribute to the solution on an individual level, and yep, you guessed it - composting is a big one.However, we know there can be barriers to composting. You may not have the space, or simply don’t have access to a garden to bury your compost or bokashi product. There are many factors that might make composting difficult for your particular lifestyle. Luckily, there are a couple of clever initiatives that can help you start composting regardless of where you live - read on for the run-down!Introducing ShareWaste, a free initiative brought to you by the Compost Collective. ShareWaste is a web app that facilitates urban composting, by connecting Kiwis who have organic waste with neighbours who have the means to compost them. Once you’ve signed up, you can connect with members who have room for organic waste in their compost bin, worm farm or bokashi bin, or are after scraps to feed their animals. Simply find a host in your area using the map, connect with them, and deliver your scraps (we also think it's a great way to meet like-minded people in your community!).Each host has their own requirements about the scraps they accept, so check around to find someone who suits you. If you have no garden but can manage a bokashi bin in your home, ShareWaste is perfect - you can continuously bokashi your scraps, and donate the nutrient-rich product without having to complete the composting process yourself in your own garden.ShareWaste is also great for avid composters on the go; now when you travel, you can find a host to take your scraps and turn them into soil for you. ShareWaste is not only NZ-wide, but is also available in many areas around the globe, so be sure to check next time you're away from home.If you’re already a compost enthusiast, and have the capacity to accept more organic waste, we encourage you to consider becoming a host. We love the idea behind this free initiative, and are so excited to see how accessible composting is becoming for everyone. Happy composting Gubba gardeners!                 SHOP COMPOST BINSSHOP WORM FARMSSHOP BOKASHI BINS

Poppies are a stunning feature in winter & spring gardens, with the classic red ‘Anzac’ poppy (Flanders poppy) serving as an emblem of remembrance to those who served in WWI & following wars.But how did the poppy become such a symbol? During the spring of 1915 in Northern France, masses of scarlet poppies began popping up across desolate battlefields - often they were the only plants to grow in the broken up soil. Canadian surgeon John McCrae penned the poem In Flanders Fields, inspired by these poppy fields and creating a lasting symbolic memorial to those who had fallen.Following this, handmade silk poppies were sold to raise money for war veterans, and in 1921 Allied countries recognised the first Poppy Day on Armistice Day; November 11th, 1921. New Zealand also placed an order for these silk poppies with the intention of wearing them for Armistice Day, however when the shipment was delayed our Poppy Day was recognised on the 24th of April instead - and it's been that way ever since.Quite fittingly, sowing poppies on Anzac Day here in NZ means they will flower around Armistice Day in November.Sowing your seedsIn mild climates, these beloved blooms are ideally sown in autumn. You’ll want to select a sheltered, sunny spot in the garden with well-draining soil. Anzac/Flanders poppies don’t tolerate being transplanted, so you’ll want to sow them directly into the garden bed. For an even spread of blooms, you can mix your poppy seed with a handful of sand before sowing. This also ensures they aren’t planted too thickly. Sprinkle the mix over your seed bed and cover with a very light layer of soil (or seed raising mix if you have it), ensuring they are still exposed to some sunlight. Keep the soil moist for about 2 weeks or until germination. 

Considering an Aerobin, or maybe you’ve just invested? Great choice. The Aerobin is a fantastic way to divert your organic waste from landfill, and gives you rich, high-quality compost in return. Considering about 50% of the waste we create is organic, this is an effective, practical way to reduce greenhouse gas emissions - plus you’ll gain some amazing benefits in the process. Your garden will thank you! The Aerobin really is a breakthrough in the home composting game. Its central ‘aeration lung’ breaks down organic waste through aerobic composting, and eliminates the need for manual intervention. No need to turn the compost heap anymore! It also features thermally insulated walls, allowing you to compost year-round. These walls retain heat generated by the composting process, and prevent cold air getting inside. The hot temperatures achieved in the Aerobin even allow you to compost pathogens and weeds, thanks to microbic bacteria. To ensure your Aerobin is functioning at its best, there are a few things to keep in mind. Keeping the microbes in your compost happy requires a good supply of air, water, and a balanced diet (much like we do!). Read on for some tips for successful composting… First and foremost, the organic matter you put in your compost needs to be balanced. This results in more microbial activity, and therefore more efficient composting. The two key ingredients for healthy compost are both carbon-rich materials and nitrogen-rich materials. Carbon ingredients are commonly referred to as ‘brown’, as they include materials such as dried leaves, straw or cardboard. Nitrogen ingredients are often called ‘green’ as they include organic matter like fresh leaves, grass clippings and kitchen scraps. Note: although manure is brown in colour, it is actually a nitrogen-rich (green) material.As a rule-of-thumb, your compost should be formed by mostly carbon-rich material. A fairly easy way to manage this is for each part of nitrogen-rich material you add, make sure you add about 4 times that volume of carbon-rich material (if you’re going by weight instead of volume, the general ratio is 30:1). If you’re just beginning some trial and error may be required, but you’ll be able to tell fairly easily if it needs adjusting - too much nitrogen and the biomass will be smelly and slimy; too much carbon and the biomass will be dry, have no smell, and take a long time to decompose. If the compost process is working well, it will have a fresh, earthy scent. Along with balancing your organic materials, you also need to regulate moisture content. Microbes require a moist environment - not too dry, and not too wet. When loaded into your Aerobin, the biomass should feel like a moist sponge. Breaking down your organic matter speeds up the composting process. Crush, break up or cut bulky items for efficient composting. Scrunch up or shred paper (don’t lay in sheets), and mulch green waste materials if possible. You can do this by running a lawn mower over it a few times. Mix up your organic waste, and layer it into the bin - 10-15cm layers work well, although this does depend on the composition of your specific ‘ingredients’. Keep in mind, the Aerobin is most efficient when it is loaded to at least 50% capacity. Your Aerobin also features a ‘leachate tank’ to collect the liquid nutrients dispelled as part of the composting process. You can use this liquid (also known as ‘worm wee’) as a natural fertiliser for the garden. Empty this tank as required, and dilute it 20:1 with water before using it on your plants. Getting started When starting out with your Aerobin, the first thing we recommend you do is load a 10cm layer of dried leaves or twigs into the bottom. This will prevent any blockages. Next, lay in some moist, active compost (this can be purchased from a garden centre to get you started) - this ensures you have a healthy amount of microbes, providing a good base for the composting process to begin. Lastly, start adding your ingredients and you’re away! You can also visit the Aerobin Compost Simulator on the official Aerobin website. This feature allows you to simulate your compost using the specific ingredients/materials you have on hand, to ensure you achieve the ideal mix of carbon and nitrogen rich matter. You can purchase a 200L or 400L Aerobin here. Happy composting!

Many of us think of autumn as a time when things start to wind down in the garden. But there are actually a wide range of veggies and flowers you can start sowing now, for both winter and spring yields! Sowing seeds in autumn can provide you with fresh winter vegetables, and can also make for an earlier crop & some beautiful blooms come spring-time. Enjoy our ten picks for planting this autumn… VEGGIES: Carrots Carrots are a nice easy crop to grow, and can be planted in autumn here in NZ. They’ll do well in a sunny spot with well draining soil. Plant them 2cm deep and at least 10cm apart - just make sure they’re sown directly into the garden, as carrot seedlings don’t like being transplanted! They’ll be ready for harvest in about 6 weeks. Broccoli You can plant broccoli right throughout autumn in NZ. If sewing your seeds directly into the garden, make sure you plan ahead and plant them at least 10 weeks before the first autumn frost. Otherwise, grow them in a seed tray and transplant after about 5 weeks. Pick a sheltered but sunny spot, and make sure you plant them at least 30-50cm apart (as they like their space!). The central head will be ready for harvest after roughly 18 weeks - keep an eye on them and harvest before the yellow flowers open up. You can take a second picking a few weeks after the first harvest. Beetroot Beetroot is a great cold-weather crop, as it doesn’t require much space. If you’re growing from seed, soak them in warm water for a few hours before planting - this softens the seed coating and speeds up the germination process. Plant your seeds or seedlings at least 5cm apart, and after about 4 weeks thin them out by removing the smaller seedlings. Water daily for the first 2 weeks following planting, then water as needed. The leaves are ready to be harvested after 7-8 weeks (just make sure to leave a few behind so the root can continue to grow!), and the root is ready to harvest once the outer leaves are about 15cm long. Garlic While garlic is traditionally planted on the winter solstice, it can be sown from late autumn - think May onwards. Choose a sunny, well-draining area of the garden, and start with NZ grown garlic as your seed. Split the bulb into individual cloves and keep the largest few for planting; plant each clove 5cm deep (with the pointed end facing up) making sure they’re at least 20cm apart. You should see shoots within a month, and look forward to harvesting in summer. Lettuce Lettuce is a garden staple that can be enjoyed year-round. If planting in autumn, consider a loose-leaf variety - these are less likely to rot in cold/wet weather than hearting lettuces. They’re also great as you can grow them in planters on the patio or balcony, or straight into the garden! Choose a sunny spot, and sow the seeds just 3mm into the soil (i.e. very shallow!). Water regularly, and when ready to harvest simply pick off outer leaves as needed. Peas This cool-weather crop can be planted from late autumn through to late spring. Peas like full sun, in a spot that is sheltered from the wind. You’ll need a growing structure such as a teepee, trellis or stake (you can even use a branch!) to keep them off the ground as they grow - tall varieties will need more support than dwarf varieties. Sow your peas, spacing them at least 5cm apart. Make successive sowings to draw out the growing season, and harvest frequently after 1 ½ to 2 months. FLOWERS: There are plenty of cool-season flowers that can be sown during autumn. Some will flower during winter, and others will be ready to flower by spring. Sweet Alyssum These annuals are easy to grow, and provide a sweet carpet of colour in the garden. They are especially suited to coastal areas as they thrive in more alkaline soils. If you live in a frost-free part of the country, you can sow this cool-season flower in autumn and see flowers in as little as 2 months! (If you live in a colder area, wait until spring for this one). To start sweet alyssum from seed, scatter the seeds on top of your soil and lightly press them down, ensuring they are still exposed to light. Or, pick some up from your local nursery and directly transplant it into your garden. This annual is a notorious self-seeder, so once established it will come back year after year. Poppies These iconic blooms are a winter garden staple; sow them in autumn for winter & spring blooms. Most varieties can be sown directly into the garden, or sown in trays for transplanting (Flanders Poppies dislike being transplanted so sow this variety directly). They’ll do well in a sunny spot with free-draining soil. Tip: for a more even spread of flowers, mix your seed with sand before sowing. Cover the seeds with a very light layer of soil, and keep the bed moist for about 2 weeks or until germination. Nigella (Love-in-a-Mist) Nigella is a hardy annual plant, which will provide beautiful early spring blooms if planted in Autumn. They’ll do well in a sunny patch of the garden with well-draining soil. Nigella has a relatively short blooming period (about a month), so plant seeds successively every 3 weeks in Autumn to enjoy continuous blooms. Sweet Peas These beloved blooms are stunning with a beautiful fragrance, and come in many different varieties. Some find that sweet peas sown in autumn actually produce a stronger plant & more flowers than those sown in spring! Sow your seeds directly into the garden between March and early June. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot, making sure there is something in place to support it as it grows (a trellis, wall, line, or even a tree will work). Most varieties climb up to 2 metres. If your soil is rich, your sweet peas can flower for up to 3 or 4 months come spring-time! MORE AUTUMN GROWING TIPS… Before planting, replenish your soil by adding a new layer of compost. Give your established plants a boost using a nutrient-rich plant tonic, like seaweed, or seaweed and fish. Invest in garden covers & cloches to protect certain plants from the colder weather, and your brassicas from pesky bugs like whitefly. If sowing seeds directly into the garden, cover with a seed raising mix to protect your seedlings adding some worm castings will encourage growth. SHOP SEEDS SHOP COVERS & CLOCHES SHOP WORM CASTINGS SHOP PEST CONTROL

When you think of the word ‘irrigation’, we wouldn’t blame you if farming or agriculture comes to mind. But you’ll soon find that the average home garden can benefit from a well-thought-out irrigation system too! Irrigation can be implemented in any garden, and brings with it a multitude of benefits that can take your garden to the next level. Read on to find out what you’ve got to gain from installing irrigation in your own garden.Watering by hand is the traditional method of irrigation, and, naturally, is what most backyard gardeners rely on. You might be using a watering can or a hose to do this, and there is certainly nothing wrong with these methods! However, setting up an irrigation system can save you a great deal of time, effort, and money. Plus it can actually make for healthier, stronger plants. Let’s take a look at some of the benefits…. Conserve water: When watering by hand, you end up using far more water than is required. Much of that water will end up evaporating, or as runoff. A well-installed irrigation system can tailor the amount of water going to each area of your garden, resulting in much less waste. Good for your water bill, and good for the environment! Happier plants: Plants grow faster when they are watered with smaller amounts, over a sustained period of time (“drip feeding”). You also cut out the risk of over or under watering, meaning they’ll be healthier & stronger! Vege gardens will have higher yields, lawns will be luscious and less patchy, and so on. Happier soil: Too much water can cause valuable nutrients to be washed out from your soil. Applying a controlled amount of water makes for a healthier soil nutrient balance - and happier soil equals happier plants! Reduce pests & diseases: Irrigation allows you to direct exactly where your water is going. This is an excellent way to reduce unwanted pests, weeds, and diseases in your garden. When water is delivered directly to the roots of your plants, weeds miss out and therefore have less chance to germinate and take hold. Irrigation systems that direct water to the root also mean water isn’t left sitting on the plant itself, reducing the chance of various leaf diseases. Sheer convenience: An obvious benefit is all the time saved. Less time watering means more time planting, planning, harvesting, and simply enjoying your garden. Also, if you’re an avid gardener, being away from your garden probably causes a bit of anxiety. After all, how can you rest assured that your plants are getting the best care while you’re away? An irrigation system solves this! You can go on holiday knowing your garden is in good hands. There are various different types of irrigation systems to choose from, all ranging in cost, automation, and design. It’s up to you to decide how simple or complex you go! Some systems will require more planning and effort to set up, while others are more simple - but either way you’ll soon be reaping the benefits. Commonly used irrigation methods for home gardens include sprinklers and drip irrigation. Our range features a selection of drip irrigation systems, all which allow you to automatically water your plants without electricity, batteries, timers or mains water pressure! There are irrigation solutions for larger flower or veggie gardens, balcony gardens, even indoor pot plants. View the range here.Without a doubt, irrigating your garden can make a big difference - to your water use, to your time, and to your plants. And as we head into summer & the holiday season, now is the perfect time to get irrigating!