News

Worm farming — or vermicomposting — is one of the most rewarding things you can do for your garden and your household waste. A good worm farm will turn your kitchen scraps into nutrient-rich compost and liquid fertiliser.

Garlic is one of the most rewarding crops you can grow in a New Zealand garden. It's easy, relatively pest-free, stores well, and a single clove planted in autumn returns a full, flavoursome bulb by summer. Whether you have a large vege patch or a few pots on a balcony, garlic earns its place.

Spring in New Zealand means the garden is awake and demanding. Here is what to do, when to do it, and which tools to reach for first.

When secateurs and loppers are not enough, you need a pruning saw. Folding or fixed blade, large teeth or fine, Japanese pull-stroke or European — here is how to choose.

Bypass, anvil, ratchet, Japanese — secateurs are not all the same. Here is everything you need to know to find the right pair for your hands and your garden.

Winter is the season your garden is counting on you. The right cuts now mean better roses, heavier fruit crops, and healthier plants come spring. And the right tools make every cut worth making.  

Naturalists use ‘wintering’ to describe the way animals survive the cold months. Some hibernate, others migrate. As tempting as these strategies might be for us, I think we better weather winter well if we truly engage with it. And that means getting outside, feeling the cold and absorbing as much of the weak sunlight as we can before returning to the fire to get cosy again. And we gardeners, more than most, are well poised to ‘winter’ well. There is no doubt that the garden is a slower, gentler presence in the gardener’s world in winter. But while the uninitiated might assume it slows to a stop, those of us who’ve planted bulbs in spring, or inherited a slipper orchid, or nurtured a daphne bush know there is still life and glory to behold in the midst of the coldest days. In contrast to the other seasons, with their bursting buds, flashy blooms and blazing colours, perhaps one of winter’s more precious gifts is to invite us to look a little closer, to pay a little more attention, to notice the finer details.   Instructions for living a life:Pay attention.Be astonished.Tell about it.— Mary Oliver For this gardener, as well as embracing the brisk morning wander to look for signs of life in the tulip bed, ‘wintering’ involves bringing the outside in, so we can pay attention and enjoy it up close. There are the bowls of dainty, blue iris reticulata – a true winter bulb, with swelling spears making their appearance from mid July. The single potted hellebore on the kitchen cabinet, whose antique hues change from cream through dusky pink and then green over six weeks or more. And the kitchen windowsill herb planters that bring the garden’s constant vitality front and centre above the kitchen sink. Other winter delights to bring close and be astonished by: Pick strawberry flowers (winter flowers steal your plant’s energy when they should be focussing on root development. Lucky us!) A branch of magnolia A vase of paper whites (always the first narcissus for me) and the first of each successive spring bloom Other petit bulbs in a bowl – Daffodil ‘White petticoat’ andcrocus are good options (make a note in your calendar to bowl-plant petit bulbs next autumn!) So get out in the cold, pay attention, be astonished, and bring some of it back inside to enjoy up close. We need both to winter well. How to grow windowsill herbs in winter LocationThe windowsill is the key to success here, as with all plants: light is life. I find my south facing windowsill works just fine with a 180° spin each couple of days to keep them growing straight. What you need: ● Sill-sized pot without a drainage hole (trough vases fit a sill nicely)● Small stones to line the base● Potting mix● Coconut coir● Small potted supermarket herbs● Liquid fertiliser How to do it:Submerge herbs in a bowl of water with liquid fertiliser added until bubbles stop ensuring they’re well hydrated Cover the base of your pot with small stones – this provides a degree of drainage for plant roots Mix equal parts potting mix and coconut coir, and add roughly 2cm to the base of the pot Remove herbs from their pots and if necessary, gently manipulate the root ball to fit inside the pot. Backfill around the plants with the soil/coconut mix, ensuring all roots are below the soil and water sparingly to moisten the additional soil. Note. Parsley often comes packed with 8+ plants, these will quickly crowd each other out so gently divide the ‘plant’ in half and pot the others separately to give away or out in the garden. Maintenance Being winter, watering requirements will be minimal, a weekly touch test to check the moisture in the soil will let you know if you need to add water or leave it be. In such close quarters competition for nutrition will require a fortnightly feed with liquid fertiliser – a dash in ½-1C of water will be sufficient. Basil is best harvested by snipping out the growing tips to encourage bushier growth, more leaves and a longer harvest period.  Initially mint is best harvested by snipping the growing tips, then once established, by cutting the whole stem back to the soil promoting new growth from root nodes.  Parsley is best harvested by snipping the outer leaves right back to the main stem allowing the new leaves at the centre of each plant to grow on. Chives can be snipped at the soil to promote new shoots. A note on coriander: being such a tender plant and not suited to transplanting, it is best grown from seed and can be grown as a microgreen on the sill alongside your other herbs.

A guide for understanding your options and discovering the most effective soil mixes and amendments for your garden. It's winter, when the trees are stripped bare and the flowers have long since set seed and drifted on the wind, that we become most aware of the earth beneath our gardens.  Soil is often overlooked — sometimes considered a bit boring and, at this time of the year, muddy and messy. But, it is where life begins.  Soil is the living, breathing heart of the garden — without it, there is no garden. And so, at this time of year, when the layers of the land are peeled back, it becomes the perfect moment to look more closely at what lies beneath. For many home gardeners, winter is a season of enriching existing beds and also of starting fresh. Lawns can be transformed into borders, raised beds are built and pots are filled in readiness for spring.  With each new project comes a need for soil, and often a trip to the garden centre, where shelves brim with bags of compost, mulch and amendments — each promising something different.  The choice can be overwhelming. In this article, we’ll look at how to make sense of these options and explore the best soil mixes and amendments for the best results to improve the soil health and structure in your garden. Compost — what is it? The foundation of any good garden begins with compost. Whether you’re starting a new garden or converting lawn into beds, compost is the one amendment that benefits every soil type.  Nutrient-dense and rich in organic matter, compost sometimes resembles soil, but it isn’t soil. It’s the by-product of decomposed organic materials and plays a crucial role in feeding plants and improving soil structure. There are different types of compost available to buy, or ways to make your own compost pile! Bagged or bulk compost that is available from the garden centre or landscaping stores are usually made from materials like green waste, animal manures, bark, sawdust and fungi. Premium products can also include additional amendments like certified organic plant materials or gypsum. Mushroom compost is the spent substrate used to farm mushrooms. Once the mushrooms are harvested, the growing medium is collected and sufficiently aged until it can be bagged up and sold to gardeners. It usually contains a combination of straw, hay and chicken manure. It tends to be more alkaline so it could be a good option for gardens with acidic soil (rather than alkaline soils). How to use compost Compost is very dense and rich. Therefore, it should never be used on its own as a potting mix, for raising seedlings or for containers. The correct way to use compost is as an amendment, mixed into existing soil or together with other ingredients. When creating a new garden, you can mix compost through your native soil and it will help to improve the soil structure. If you have clay soil, the compost can help to break up the clay and improve drainage. If you have sandy soil, then the compost will add organic matter and improve moisture retention. Use this ratio as a guide for how much compost to use: 10cm of compost mixed through the top 20-30cm of surface soil for a new garden bed. Garden mix — what is it? If you are building a new raised bed this winter and need to fill it, then garden mix is the right soil for your needs.  Bagged garden mix is made up of topsoil + compost (and can include grit — sand or pumice — depending on the brand). There can also be added ingredients such as bark to improve water retention and synthetic fertilisers, or just natural nutrients in the form of manure. It’s important to check with your local landscaping supplies store what their “garden mix” contains. Some suppliers label compost as “garden mix,” which means you may need to purchase both topsoil and compost separately to create the right blend for filling raised beds or bottomless containers. In the following years, you can simply top up the bed with compost, as the organic matter will continue to break down over time.  For healthy plant growth, aim for a balanced mix of topsoil and compost — remember compost is too dense for plants to grow in alone, and this combination provides both structure and nutrients. How to use garden mix Garden mix is ideal for bottomless containers, raised beds or slightly raised garden edges — anywhere you’re creating a contained space for plants to thrive.  Specialty mixes such as Vegetable Mix, Citrus Mix, Bulb Mix etc. can be used in conjunction with Garden Mix as these have specific NPK ratios (fertiliser) to cater for their intended use. To calculate how much garden mix you need, measure the length x width x depth of the raised bed / container to work out the total cubic m2. For example, a 1m x 1m raised vegetable garden will require 7x bags of 40L Garden Mix and 7x bags of 40L Vegetable Mix to fill the area. Potting mix — what is it? Potting mix is a blend made for pots that have a base and drainage holes. It has special additives that sometimes include peat, bark, coco fibers, pumice, sand and wetting agents. There are also slow-release fertilisers that provide nutrients to the plant for a period of up to six months. How to use potting mix Potting mix is designed to be incredibly aerated and free draining. Do not use it in a garden or raised bed as it does not have the capacity to hold nutrients for a long duration of time. Best used for houseplants and outdoors pots or raising seedlings.  You will notice that potting mix generally has a life span of 3-6 months (depending on the brand). After this time, you will have to replace the tired potting mix altogether or ‘revive’ by adding in worm castings or compost. The best soil amendments Garden soil amendments are ingredients you can add to your soil to improve its structure, essential nutrients or moisture retention. These are especially helpful when dealing with more challenging soil types like clay or sand. For clay soils — This soil type is nutrient packed and has the ability to hold a lot of moisture which is however suffers from soil compaction. You need to loosen the compaction first in order to access those beneficial nutrients. Use gypsum to do this, which is a naturally occurring mineral containing calcium that helps to break up heavy clay soils and improve drainage. (It’s what GIB plasterboard is made from!) Lime is another amendment that can be added to clay soils to help bind the particles together, which improves the structure and drainage.  Both these amendments encourage worm activity which also helps to increase and break down organic matter. For sandy soils — This soil type is difficult to work with as it is incredibly free draining and does not hold a lot of nutrients. It requires a lot of organic matter to build moisture retention within the soil. Animal manures, like well-rotted horse, sheep, chicken or cow manure in particular, are extremely beneficial due to their high organic matter content. Aged manure is best, as opposed to fresh manure. Mulch is hugely important for sandy soil. It helps to lock in that moisture and also prevent erosion.  Choose an organic rich mulch, like aged wood chips or a thick chunky leaf mold mixed with decomposed seaweed.  Stay away from anything too fine, like pea straw or dry leaves as these are too light and will allow moisture to evaporate. It is in winter, when the soil is exposed, that we’re given the chance to reconnect with the foundations of our growing spaces. By understanding our soil and choosing the right blends for our garden’s needs, it’s the best time to lay the foundation for healthy plants and abundant growth in the seasons to come. Whether you’re filling a new raised bed, amending tired ground or refreshing your pots, every garden begins with healthy soil. ________________________________________________ The Sage Journal Winter Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.

A hedging guide and list of the best shrubs and best hedge plants for both privacy and beauty.   Winter is one of the best times to plant hedging and screening plants. Cooler temperatures and softer soil make it easier to dig and establish new plants, while the lack of heat stress gives roots time to settle in and grow strong before spring. Whether you’re planting evergreens for year-round privacy or deciduous shrubs for seasonal interest, getting them in the ground during winter sets them up for success in the growing season ahead. — Choosing the right privacy hedge When it comes to creating a private, beautiful landscape, the right hedging and screening plants are essential. Whether you're looking to block out a nosy neighbour or create a stunning backdrop for your garden, selecting the best privacy hedges, shrubs and trees is crucial. The right plants can offer year-round beauty, reduce noise and provide shelter for local wildlife - as well as the privacy and structure you're after. One of the first steps in creating a privacy screen is selecting the right plants for your needs. Privacy hedges come in various forms, from deciduous shrubs to evergreen trees, and each has its own advantages. Selecting the right privacy hedge depends on your climate, soil type, and the level of maintenance you're willing to commit to.  Evergreen foliage is an excellent choice for year-round privacy, as it maintains its dense foliage and lush appearance throughout the seasons. ] Best time for hedge planting In most regions, the ideal time to plant evergreen trees and shrubs is from winter to early spring. This timing allows the plants to establish strong roots before the growing season begins, ensuring they can thrive throughout the year. During this period, the ground is also soft enough for digging but still cool enough to encourage root development before the summer heat sets in. This is especially important for evergreens, which benefit from having time to establish their roots. Soil considerations For optimal growth, well-drained soil is a must for most hedging plants. Adding organic matter such as compost, chopped seaweed, chicken and sheep manure at the time of planting can improve soil fertility and help your hedge establish faster. Incorporating hedging into landscape design When planning your hedge, consider the mature height and plant sizes to ensure your hedge fits your overall landscape design.  Regular pruning will help maintain the desired shape and dense growth of your hedge, whether you're aiming for a formal evergreen look or a more natural, informal hedge. Fast-growing hedges for quick privacy For those who need privacy fast, Olives are one of the best fast-growing hedge plants available. This evergreen hedge can reach a mature height in just a few years, providing an effective sound barrier and privacy screen.  Other fast-growing shrubs to consider are the Griselinia ‘Broadway mint’, known for its glossy green leaves and fast growth rate. Another large, fast-growing option is Alnus jorullensis. Native plants for low-maintenance hedges Incorporating native plants into your privacy hedge is a great way to support local wildlife while ensuring that your hedge is well-suited to your local climate. In New Zealand, Pittosporum, Griselinia, Olearia and Corokia are great native hedging options. Or for something a little different, try hedging Muehlenbeckia astonii. — Top 10 effective hedging & screening plants 1. Alnus jorullensis (Evergreen alder) Fast-growing and evergreen, though it may drop some leaves in winter and appear a little sparse during the coldest months. Alnus jorullensis is excellent for wet or boggy sites — it tolerates water-logged soils better than most hedge plants. Best for a taller hedge option. Grows quickly to a large size, so it's best suited to big gardens or rural properties needing fast vertical screening. (Definitely not a good choice for small spaces!) Loropetalum Rubrum 'Firedance' Part of the witch-hazel family, Loropetalum offers a striking mix of foliage and flowers. It is a great attracter of bees and pollinators when in flower. Variety to try: Loropetalum Rubrum 'Firedance' — deep burgundy / purple-pink foliage and fringed pink flowers. These often blooms in winter, brightening up the garden during the cooler months. Location: Sheltered spots with well-drained soil. Slightly tender in exposed or frosty areas. Laurels — Laurus nobilis (bay) & Prunus lusitanica (Portuguese laurel) Laurus nobilis (Bay laurel) is not only culinary-friendly, but also makes a versatile formal hedge or topiary. It features aromatic dark green leaves. Prunus lusitanica (Portuguese laurel) is fast growing and highly adaptable. Its glossy green foliage, red stems and dense habit make it ideal for privacy screening. This versatile shrub thrives in a variety of soil types, including sandy and well-drained soils, and is well-suited to formal hedges. Michelia Michelias make a beautiful hedge. A Michelia (now commonly listed under the Magnolia genus) is an evergreen flowering shrub or small tree loved for its sweet blooms, glossy foliage and ability to be shaped into an elegant hedge. Many varieties flower from late winter into spring, helping to brighten the garden during quieter months. Their velvety buds and softly fragrant flowers make them a standout in both formal and informal settings. Try varieties: 'Bubbles' – compact, ideal for hedging especially if a flowering hedge appeals. Velvety buds open into fragrant, creamy flowers. 'Fairy Blush' – this variety has masses of showy blush-pink flowers and a sweet scent. Corokia A hardy New Zealand native. Corokia hedges are low maintenance, wind-hardy and suitable for dry or coastal gardens. Can be easily trimmed and shaped. Try varieties: 'Frosted Chocolate' – smoky-bronze foliage 'Geenty's Green' – fine green leaves (similar to olive leaves) for a classic tidy look. Ilex ‘Largo’ This hedging plant has large, lush dark-green leaves which are held densely, creating a great hedge.  Ilex ‘Largo’ is an ornamental holly hybrid with broad foliage. But despite its holly heritage, the Largo variety is non-prickly and makes a lovely dense hedge. Produces bright red berries. Grows well in: Full sun to part shade with well-drained soil. Does not like wet feet so be careful of poor drainage (root rot). A great alternative to traditional box hedge (buxus) for a slightly taller formal border. Camellia Camellias are a popular evergreen shrub that add lovely winter colour and structure. Some varieties make a great hedge. Sasanqua types are better for hedging than Japonica — they have smaller leaves and more sun tolerance. Though they will thrive in partial shade, preferring protection from hot afternoon sun. Great camellia hedging options: 'Setsugekka' – pure white single blooms. 'Cinnamon Cindy' – fragrant, double white blooms. 'Spring Festival' – showy, pink double blooms. Care tip: Mulch in summer and prune after flowering for best shape and density. Pittosporum This New Zealand native is well-suited to many conditions and is a go-to hedging shrub. Fast-growing, tough and easy to shape. Try these varieties: 'Mountain Jade' (Pittosporum tenuifolium) – an upright, bushy and tight form. 'Lemonwood' (Pittosporum eugenioides) – larger, more free-form growth and soft yellow-green foliage. Pittosporums thrives in: Full sun, well-drained soils. They generally aren't affected by frost, but it's a good idea to protect them from heavy frost when young. Griselinia ‘Broadway mint’ An evergreen favourite for its dense, glossy foliage and neat growth habit. Most commonly seen as a hedge. A hardy hedge choice. Ideal for coastal gardens, as it copes well with wind and salt spray. Caution: Griselinia can be frost tender, especially when young – protect with frost cloth or plant in warmer microclimates. Olea ‘El Greco’ (Olive) The humble olive. 'El Greco' is a slim, compact-growing olive variety, perfect for trimming into a hardy hedge. Reaches up to 2.5m tall, with silver-green foliage that reflects light beautifully. This variety also produces lots of good quality fruit.  Olives thrive in: Full sun, hot and dry conditions, but also tolerant of mild frosts and cooler weather. Well-drained soil is best. Hedge style: Elegant, Mediterranean look.   — Plants for smaller, lower growing hedging Buxus sempervirens (Box hedge) The common ‘box hedge’ is still a crowd favourite, after so long! One of the best low growing hedges for a classic, formal look. Perfect for edging or structured borders. It is slow growing, which also means that once it has been hedged, it required little maintenance as there is minimal clipping required. It’s easily propagated — take cuttings or transplant plants easily. Buxus Microphylla ‘Koreana’ This type of Buxus has attractive lush vibrant green foliage and is prefect for a low growing but informal look. It's a softer, looser form of box hedge. It is a bit wispier than the standard box hedge if you are looking for something different. Great for cottage gardens or low feature hedging. Pittosporum ‘Frankie’s Folly’ or ‘Little Kiwi’ Both are compact New Zealand native shrubs, easily shaped into spheres or kept as tidy hedges. Kohuhu (Pittosporum ‘Frankies Folly’) is a good alternative to box (buxus) with a more NZ-native character. Pittosporum 'Little Kiwi' has tiny green foliage and forms a dense mound. Great for a low growing hedge that you can also shape into balls. Westringia Drought-tolerant and long-flowering, this Australian native is a great low hedge choice. Westringias flower for much of the year. They are a hardy shrub that can handle dry periods and coastal environments. The 'Grey Box' variety is a compact form and has tidy growth up to 45cm, with pale lavender-blue flowers. Perfect for: Coastal, windy or dry gardens where resilience is key.   ________________________________________________ The Sage Journal Winter Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.