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How to give your flower planters the ‘X’ factor When it comes to creating a flowering planter, the default method is to plant one type of flowering plant, either in a single colour or a combination. They will look pretty but there is a way that you can ‘level up’ and create flowering planters that have a lot of visual interest by utilising different heights, textures and growth habits. The idea is called ‘Thriller, filler, spiller’ and it helps you select the appropriate plants to work together. The Thriller is as the name suggests, the star of the show! It’s going to be the tallest and showiest of the plant choices. You want something that is going to look good for a long period of time. You can use a perennial as the thriller which can then be planted out in the garden after the season changes or it outgrows the pot. Alternatively a large growing annual flower will work fine too, especially if you like to change your pots in each season. The Filler plays an important role as the supporting cast. They are generally a ‘mounding’ plant and fill in the spaces and can add contrast with colour to make the thriller look good. The filler is what makes the planter nice and full in appearance. The Spiller adds an extra element to the planter, spilling over the pot edge and softening the lines between the plants and pot. They can add texture and colour to contrast against the other plants. They don’t even have to flower, a foliage plant can work really well in this situation. To start you will need to decide whether the pot will be viewed from all sides or just from the front as this determines where you place the components and how many you need. If the pot is viewed from the front only, the thriller goes at the back, the fillers in the middle and the spillers at the front. If the pot is viewed from all sides, the thriller goes in the middle, the fillers surround it and the spillers are placed around the edge of the pot. When selecting the plants, consider what you want to achieve with colour. Do you want something that stands out, that is bright and colourful? If so, choosing colours that are bright and that contrast beautifully are going to give you plenty of impact. Think colours that are opposites on the colour wheel or using white to contrast against dark colours. If you like colour but still want something more harmonious, use different shades of the same colour to create a tonal effect. Alternatively you can go for something more neutral in colour and let the textures be the champion. Using tones of greens with white or silver or using the paler, icy shades of colours will work well in this situation. These are suggestions to get you started on selecting your plant combinations. Thriller plants - these don’t necessarily have to be flowering, they could be sculptural. Digitalis Perennial Salvias Tropical impatiens Gaura Juncus grass Dwarf Canna lily Dwarf Papyrus (Queen Tut) Filler plants Achillea millefolium Tulbaghia Geranium Petunias Calibrachoa (mini bells) Verbena Coleus - part to full shade positions Heliotrope Impatiens - full to part shade positions Cineraria silver dust ( Dusty miller) Spiller plants Agonis flexuosa Dichondra silver falls Lysimachia (Creeping Jenny) -For part shade positions Cascading Lobelia Cascading Scaevola (Fan flower) Choose a combination that works for the situation where the pot will be (sun - shade) and for the size of the pot. A larger pot gives you the advantage of not drying out as quickly, especially when you have quite a few plants in the same space. You can try a new combination each season or if you have a perennial as the thriller, you can ring in seasonal changes with different fillers and spillers. Don’t forget to use a good quality potting mix, a slow release fertiliser formulated for flowering plants and water your pots regularly to get the best results. Have fun with choosing your combinations and enjoy the show they give this season! Written for Gubba by Kelly Jean Reyland (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

One of the best ways to keep your summer garden looking tidy and to encourage more flowers is the simple act of deadheading. Most perennial and all annual flowering plants will flower again if you remove the finished flowers, so being regular in deadheading means a consistent show of flowers through summer and into autumn. If you have an event happening at your place this summer/autumn and you want flowers (and in particular roses!) to be looking their best at the time, you need to be dead heading them 6 weeks before the date to give them time to reflush and rebloom on time. There is another benefit to deadheading. Removing the spent flowers stops the formation of seed heads which if left to mature will do their best to spread themselves around your garden, into gravel pathways or cracks in paths or driveways. Some gardeners are happy to let nature take its course but if you prefer to choose where the plants will grow, stopping self seeding is very helpful. This also relates to weed control. If you don’t have time to deal with a weed right now but it has a seed head on it? Pinch off that flower head! Then you only have one weed to deal with rather than a potential 2000 seeds being released into your garden to grow! To keep summer flowering shrubs looking good and to keep them looking bushy and dense, the time to give them their annual prune is after they finish their main flowering in summer. If you leave it until later in autumn or winter there is a very strong likelihood that you will remove the flower buds for the next summer. So do it in summer after they finish blooming. You may find some that never seem to stop blooming so in those cases you will just have to pick a time and sacrifice some blooms when you trim it. The exception to this rule is of course fruiting shrubs like feijoas, the time to trim them is after they fruit or you will be removing all the potential fruit. Another thing to consider when planning out your floral show is to consider if you want fewer large size flowers or many smaller flowers. It is the same concept as thinning out the developing fruit to ensure you get bigger fruit rather than lots of small ones. If you want to focus on bigger flowers, removing side shoots, pinching off lateral flower buds and even limiting the number of shoots growing from the crown of a perennial plant will channel energy into the remaining shoots and buds. Pests and diseases can start to appear as plants get stressed in the summer heat. Doing a regular wander in the garden will help you recognise quickly when a pest or disease appears. When you spot the first signs, ensure you act quickly. Physically removing the affected part of the plant will remove the first infestation and help to stop or slow down the spread. Make sure that you throw the affected parts in the rubbish bin (not on the ground or in the compost bin) and wash your hands if it is a fungal disease. You don’t want to accidentally spread the spores to other plants in your garden. Follow up with an appropriate spray in order to knock out any remaining insects, eggs or fungal spores and follow up with another spray as per the bottle instructions (approx 10-14 days). Fungal diseases do not go away on their own and pests can reproduce generations of offspring in a short period of time so do something at the time you first see it and (pardon the pun) nip the problem in the bud! Producing fruit and flowers takes a lot of energy so ensure your plants are well fed, either with an appropriate slow release fertiliser or with regular liquid feeding. If your weather is dry, water deeply but less often. A plant watered deeply once or twice a week will send its roots down deep into the soil where they will be less affected by temperature and moisture fluctuations at the soil surface. When you water, ensure the water is directed at the soil, not over the top of the plant. Water on the leaves increases the chances of fungal disease especially in warm weather. And keep in mind that plants may wilt simply because it is really hot, not because they are thirsty so always check the soil moisture before you water. You may find when you check on them later in the day when it has cooled down they have perked back up without being watered. Spreading a generous layer of mulch over the soil when it is damp will also help hold the soil moisture in while making the garden look tidy. Mulch will over time improve the quality of your soil as well which is always a good thing! Finally, as the summer rolls on, make a point of noting any parts of the garden that are lacking summer colour or interest. Go and visit a garden centre at that time as they will have plants in flower available at that time to help you fill the gaps. Likewise if there are plants that are not performing or flower colours are clashing with neighbouring plants, make a note of them to move them in autumn if you want to move the plant or simply get rid of it now and find something that does have a flower colour that works! Summer is such a colourful time in the garden but it can be a big job to keep it looking good. Think of it like a marathon, it’s slow and steady that wins the race.

A beautiful garden isn’t just about color and fragrance in the spring or summer — it’s about creating a landscape that offers interest and beauty year-round. Trees can be the stars of your garden, providing a constant source of interest throughout the seasons. With careful planning, you can select trees that offer points of interest that change as the months pass. Here’s how you can create a garden that shines in every season, with trees that offer something special year-round. Winter wonders: standout trees for the cold months Winter might seem like a time when your garden is sleeping, but it's actually one of the best seasons to highlight trees with unique characteristics. As many plants go dormant, the bare branches and bark of trees can create a striking effect. Trees with decorative bark Trees with striking bark are especially eye-catching during winter. Whether smooth or textured, colored or patterned, the right tree can be a winter highlight. Interesting winter bark: Silver Birch (Betula varieties) Red/yellow stemmed Dogwood (Cornus Sibirica) Crepe Myrtle (Lagerstroemia) Red-stemmed Maple (Acer senkaki) Trees with berries and fruit Some trees hold onto their berries even after the leaves have fallen, providing both a beautiful winter display and a valuable food source for birds. These trees are especially useful in winter when many plants are bare. Interesting winter fruit and berries: Crabapples Persimmons Hawthorn (Crataegus) Spring: the magic of blossom and fresh new growth Spring is the season that most people associate with flowers, and for good reason. Trees bursting into bloom are a gorgeous sight after the long winter months. To extend your bloom time, you can plant different species or varieties that flower at slightly different times. Early Bloomers Magnolias Flowering Cherries Dogwoods Late Spring and Summer Blooms For longer-lasting color, consider trees that flower in late spring or summer. These are often a little more subtle but still provide interest throughout the warmer months. Crepe Myrtle (Lagerstroemia) Silk Tree (Albizia julibrissin) Calycanthus 'Hartlage Wine’ Fragrant Trees In addition to their beauty, many trees offer delicious fragrances in the spring and summer. Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) Mock Orange (Philadelphus) Lilac (Syringa) Summer: subtle beauty and structural drama In summer, leaves take center stage. The lush green canopy can provide a dramatic backdrop, but some trees stand out because of their unique textures, shapes, and sizes. The drama of tree formDon't underestimate the power of a striking tree shape. Whether it’s a weeping tree or one with a strong vertical presence, these trees can create a dramatic focal point in your garden. Year-round structural trees: Wedding Cake Tree (Cornus controversa variegata) Robinia Lace Lady Weeping Maples Flowering Cherries Dwarf trees for impact Dwarf trees are a fantastic option for small gardens or for creating a unique, scaled-down version of a larger tree's beauty. Dwarf stone fruit trees for spring blossom and summer fruit Ginkgo Ming Princess Miniature Japanese Maples Autumn: farewell to the growing season As the weather cools, many trees put on a spectacular show of autumn color. Maples, oaks, and other trees can turn stunning shades of red, gold, and orange. Autumn color showstoppers If you live in a climate where fall color is prominent, the right tree can turn your garden into a vision of colour. Maples Liquidambar Ginkgo (Maidenhair Tree) Tupelo (Nyssa sylvatica) Year-round interest: the importance of planning To create a garden that looks great all year long, it’s essential to plan with an eye toward seasonal interest. From the striking bark and branches of winter to the colorful flowers, fruits and foliage of spring, summer and autumn, there’s always something to enjoy if you choose your trees wisely. Consider the unique features of trees like blossom time, fruit-bearing, bark color, leaf texture, and tree shape when making your choice. Remember, it’s not just about filling your space — it’s about making sure there's always something to catch your eye, no matter the season.   Written for Gubba by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

Evergreen trees are increasing in popularity as people seek easy care options for their home. What are the benefits and costs of evergreen and deciduous trees? Evergreen trees Benefits Consistent appearance year round Provide shelter from wind all year round Provide shade from sun all year round Provide privacy from neighbours all year round Costs They shed small amounts of leaves all year long (especially small leaved trees) They can block out the sun in the winter Not as simple to deal with pests and diseases when they are always in full leaf Block views all year round Deciduous trees Benefits Creates seasonal interest, as many have blossom in spring/summer and beautiful autumn leaf colour. Provides shade in the summer and lets the sun through in the winter They drop their leaves at one time of the year Fallen leaves are a useful source of organic matter for compost bins and the garden Easy to deal with pests and diseases when they are dormant in winter. Costs They drop all their leaves They look bare in winter You lose privacy from neighbours when leaves drop. As you can see there are valid points for and against both evergreen and deciduous trees. It is important to assess what is most important to you. If it is low maintenance then you need to weigh up if it is easier to deal with one dump of leaves over a few weeks with deciduous trees or the continual leaf drop from an evergreen tree. Don’t dismiss the benefits of passive cooling either. Deciduous trees provide shade to your home over the hot months, reducing the need for air conditioning and allows the sunlight into the home in winter, reducing the need for heating. This can make a significant difference to your home heating bill. In terms of appearance, they both have benefits. Evergreens provide consistency all year round and important structure in the garden during the winter months. Deciduous trees provide a seasonal change in the garden which can include blossom and autumn foliage colour. A combination of both and careful placement of the trees will give you the best of both worlds!  Written for Gubba by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

When a bouquet of flowers can easily cost $50-60+ to buy, you can understand the desire to have plants in your garden that you can pick flowers or foliage from throughout the year. Whether it is picking to display in your home or to giveaway, there are plenty of options to give you lots of variety to choose from. It is a good idea to consider what shrubs or perennials are good for picking as these are long term plants and will give you more material to pick each year with little input. Bulbs are great in that they come back each year but they are generally only available for a limited time span so you need to plant different varieties that will flower at different times. Annuals are the candy store where you get to choose what colours and varieties to plant each year. There are many varieties that are available in seeds that you can’t buy as seedlings, and you can try out new colours or shapes in an economical way. You may be able to collect the seeds off some varieties for free seeds to grow the following year. Foliage is a flower picker’s best friend as it provides the backdrop for the flowers, and it fills out the bouquet, so you don’t need as many flowers. Think colours and textures when it comes to selecting foliage and the overall feel that you are after for that particular bouquet. Foliage is often available year-round, making it invaluable in winter when other pickings can be scarce. Trees for foliage Olive tree Eucalyptus tree Feijoa tree Bay tree Evergreen Magnolia Shrubs for foliage (F) and flowers (*) and berries (B) Leucadendron -F Proteas * Leucospermum (pincushion flowers) * Phyllica (Flannel flower) - F Brachyglottis (Senecio) - F Pittosporum – F (Pitto Tobira has scented flowers as well) Osmanthus pearly gates -F, * Rosemary – F, * Nandina – F, B Ozothamnus (Rice flower) -* Flowering japonica (ornamental quince) - * Roses - * Perennials for flowers Alstroemeria Scabiosa Chrysanthemum Dianthus/ carnations Delphiniums Achillea (ornamental yarrow) Eryngium (sea holly) Lavender Queen Anne's lace Geums Gypsophila (Baby’s breath) Monarda (Bee Balm) Bulbs / tubers for flowers Dahlias Lilies Freesias Peonies Tulips Anemones Ranunculus Lily of the valley Daffodils Annuals for flowers Sunflowers Zinnias Sweet Peas Didiscus (Ornamental carrot) Amaranthus Antirrhinum (Tall snapdragons) Aquilegia (Granny’s bonnet) Corn flowers Cosmos Gomphrena Nigella These lists are only a starting point as there are many varieties out there that are good for picking. To extend your picking options as long as possible; Use plants that readily rebloom after picking – sweet peas, alstroemeria, iceberg roses etc Choose plants whose flowers last a long time in the vase. This is an asset in a picked flower! Alstroemeria, chrysanthemum, lilies, zinnia, peony and protea are all long lasting blooms. Don’t forget to consider the months when you run out of picking options. These are good times to visit public gardens to see what they have in their seasonal flower displays, to get some inspiration. Alternatively visit your local garden centre as they will usually have the plants that are flowering at that time in stock. Bulbs are the exception to this rule, spring flowering bulbs are available in stores from February and summer flowering tubers like lilies and dahlias usually appear from July onwards. You will need to get these bulbs/tubers during those times. If you are intentional with adding flowering plants in the months where you have little or no picking options, you will over time, develop a year-round picking garden. One of the best things you can do is start keeping notes on what you grow, noting how long they flower for, when they flower during the year and how long they last in the vase. Details like if they open from a bud once picked are useful to know. It is difficult to keep track of all the individual details in your memory, so a picking flower diary is a useful tool to have. Remember that even if you don’t pick the flowers to use, keep deadheading them as they finish blooming to encourage more blooms to follow. Some plants will flower right through summer and autumn if you do this regularly. Picking your own flowers for you or someone else to enjoy is such a satisfying activity. Try it yourself, you might be surprised how addictive it can be!  Written for Gubba by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

What is structure in the garden and why is it important? Structure in the garden are the permanent or evergreen elements that remain constant all year round. They provide a backdrop in the growing seasons for the plants that are more seasonal, that drop their leaves or go dormant in winter. These structural plants/elements come into their own in winter as the rest of the plants go to sleep, revealing the ‘bones’ of the garden. Structure ensures that the garden looks good in all seasons. There are different ways to incorporate structure into the garden. Evergreen plants are a great place to start. Include them in your planting scheme and if you are intentional in how and where you use them you can give the garden a sense of order and tie the different spaces together. Creating hedges at different heights can frame and define different spaces. They can create a sense of mystery when you can’t see every area of the garden at once. Using the same plant spaced along a pathway or border can draw your eye to a feature or encourage you to walk along the path. Topiary or clipped evergreens can be used in pairs to mark an entrance or in the garden or in pots as a focal point. Even deciduous plants (those which drop their leaves in winter) if used in an intentional or repetitive fashion can be used to create structure in your garden. While many of the examples pictured are clipped and formal, if you prefer a loose, organic feel, the same principles apply. Many grasses or strappy foliage plants are evergreen and can be swapped in for shrubs. Hard landscaping elements can also be used to create structure in the garden. Whether they are made from timber, stone, brick, metal or some other material, they will create a backdrop for the garden in spring, summer and autumn and become features in winter. Archways, obelisks, plinths, pots, gazebos, sculptures, water features, plant supports, even raised garden beds and pathways are all ways to add structure to a garden. Combine these with evergreen plants and you have a garden that looks good in every season. Written for Gubba by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

Subtropical fruit are those that naturally grow between 23 and 30 degrees latitude north and south of the equator. They can survive in drier conditions than tropical plants which typically need more rainfall and higher humidity. Some have limited or no tolerance to frosts. Most need a well drained soil as they tend to be susceptible to root rot in heavy clay soils. Here are some of the common subtropical fruits in New Zealand. Avocado They will tolerate some frost once established. They must have well draining soil as they are susceptible to root rot. The large varieties grow 6mx 10m in 10 years and there are now some semi and dwarf varieties that can be as short as 3m tall. The varieties fruit at different times of year so if you have space, planting different varieties will extend your harvest. Avocado flowers are an ‘A’ type or ‘B’ type, referring to when they open during the day. To improve cross pollination, planting another variety that is opposite to yours (If you have a ‘A’ type, plant a ‘B’ type and vice versa). Passionfruit They love warmth and sun and are frost tender. They require a moist free draining soil. If your soil is heavy or clay, we recommend that you raise the soil level or plant in a deep pot. They are a vigorous vine so they need a sturdy support to grow on. They are only considered a short term crop with the vine remaining fully productive for 2-3 years. This is generally because they fall victim to root rot. They carry their fruit on the current seasons growth so in early spring, cut approximately half of last years growth off, but leave a framework of laterals to produce new growth (and fruit!) Loquat These trees are relatively hardy but they do fruit much better in a warmer, subtropical position with free draining soil. They need protection from frost when young. Tasting like a tropical apricot they are a delicious addition to the garden. Fruit ripens in November – December. Feijoas The fruit that people love or hate! It is the hardiest of the subtropical fruits, tolerating light to moderate frosts once established. They prefer a full sun position but will grow in a part shade situation, albeit with a reduced crop. They don’t usually require irrigation but periods of drought at critical times will affect yield and quality. Feijoas are a reliably self fertile but cross pollination with another variety will improve the overall crop size as well as fruit size. Birds are the main pollinator for feijoas. The fruit is ripe when they drop off the tree. They can be cut back very hard if needed but do it after fruiting so you don’t remove the flower buds later in the season. Figs They do particularly well in areas with long hot summers and will cope in colder climates in a sheltered sunny spot. Birds stealing the fruit is the main issue with figs and netting is a necessity to ensure you get any fruit. Some varieties fruit two or even three times in a season. They can be espaliered against a wall or grown as a tree. All figs are self fertile and do not require a pollinator. Tamarillos The most adverse to cold and frost, they prefer a minimum day temperature of 15 degrees celsius. They love heat. They need a rich, free draining soil. They are fast growing, cropping in only their second winter after planting. They grow to approx 3m x 2m. They benefit from regular feeding and watering during dry spells. Persimmon Preferring heat, in the cold they go dormant, tolerating the cold to –2 degrees Celsius. They need a long warm season for the fruit to mature so plant in a sunny spot, sheltered from cold, harsh winds. Avoid areas with late spring and early autumn frosts. They will tolerate most soils but do best in rich free drained soils. Until they establish, the wood is thin and weak so support is crucial and don’t let it fruit before the branch framework is established. They start fruiting from about 4 years old. They can grow successfully as an espalier. Birds will eat the fruit off the tree so keeping the tree more compact so bird netting is possible is a sensible idea. They are an attractive small tree with large glossy leaves, beautiful autumn leaf colour and the fruit looks stunning holding on the tree into winter. There are two different types of persimmon. Astringent and non-astringent. Astringent are heart shaped, they are harvested when the fruit has turned fully orange but is still firm. It is left at room temperature to soften before eating. Non- astringent varieties that are a round, flat shape can be picked firm (store with bananas or apples to enable it to ripen further) or left to ripen on the tree and eaten at either stage. Fuyu is the common variety available in supermarkets or to buy as fruit trees. It is non-astringent. There are more sub tropical fruit options including cherimoya and casimiroa available in New Zealand but they are less available to buy as fruit or as plants. If you want to grow some of these subtropical varieties in your garden, ensure you have the right conditions or protect and shelter as required to keep it happy and thriving.  Written for Gubba by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

What exactly is Propagation? It is the creation of plant specimens by natural processes from the parent stock. There are two types of propagation - sexual and asexual. Sexual propagation is drawing from the genes of the parents to create another plant. The floral parts of the plant are pollinated and seeds are created. Plants grown from seeds are a unique mix of the parents genetics. The resulting plants are all variable. Sexual propagation is growing from seeds or spores. Asexual propagation is taking part of one parent plant and causing it to grow into a new plant. Plants grown from asexual propagation are a genetic ‘carbon copy’ of the parent plant. The resulting plants are all identical. Asexual propagation techniques that you could do at home - division, cuttings, layering, grafting and budding. To grow from seeds you either purchase seeds from a seed company or save the seeds from a plant in the garden. There are two different types of seeds available from a seed company - open pollinated and hybrid seed. Open pollinated seeds has been pollinated by any pollinators - bees, wasps, insects etc - and as a result has pollen from whatever plants the pollinator has visited included in the seed creation. There can be a wide range of genetic variability in the seeds that then grow into plants. Heirloom seed varieties are always open pollinated. Hybrid seeds are developed in a controlled pollination situation where only the pollen from the two desired parents with the desired attributes ( pest and disease resistance, yield, vigour, flavour etc) is used for pollination. The seeds are then grown to see what attributes they have. And this process is repeated and repeated until consistent results are produced and those seeds are then sold. The resulting plants should be very consistent and true to form. The downside with hybrid seeds is once planted in the garden and open to pollinators, the seed collected from them will not reproduce true to form. So to get the consistent results you have to continue buying the hybrid seeds. The time and effort that goes into creating the hybrid seeds is why they are more expensive than open pollinated seed. To collect seeds, you simply need to let the plant bloom, be pollinated and to create a seed pod or fruit. You need to let the seeds mature on the plant - they generally turn brown or black and they dry out -you can often hear them rattling in the pod. At this point the plant will prepare to spread the seed so you will see the pods begin to crack open. This is the point where you cut off the stem with the seed pods on them, put them in a paper bag and leave it in a dry place for the seeds to fall out and collect in the bottom of the paper bag. Remember to label them so you know what you have saved and discard the stem and seed pod. If you want to try hybridising your own seed, you have to choose two varieties of the same plant with the attributes you want ( flower colour, shape, size etc), and you have to exclude the pollinators, by netting or bagging the flowers before the buds open at all. You then have to act as pollinator, transferring the pollen between the two flowers with a paintbrush and then continue to keep the natural pollinators out of the flower until the seed pods have developed. Then you need to collect the seed as described above and grow the seeds to see what attributes and how they present have been shared amongst the baby plants. Asexual propagation is used in the horticulture industry to obtain consistent plants that can be marketed and sold. The growth habit, the flower shape, colour and size etc are all the same as the parent plant because it is a direct genetic copy of that plant. This is also how a plant that is grown from seed and has all the desired attributes the grower wants is then reproduced. They can’t use seed to produce more plants as they will be variable to the parent plant so they use asexual propagation techniques to create identical plants. The type of asexual propagation depends on the growth habit of the plant. Division is the easiest of the techniques. It is commonly used for clumping plants such as herbaceous perennials -such as agapanthus, flax, daylilies and renga renga- and bulbs. It is typically carried out in winter or early spring (if the plant is frost tender). You can remove small divisions off the edge of the root ball or split it in half. Dig the plant carefully up, avoiding root damage, and place 2 sharp spades back to back in the rootball and force them apart. Growing from a basic cutting involves taking a piece of a plants stem or branch and putting it in potting mix or water to grow roots. There are a few things you need to know; When you take the cutting you need to cut under a ‘node’ ( where a leaf attaches) at the bottom and just above a ‘node’ at the top. This is because growing hormones are located at these points and is where the roots or new growth will develop from. You need to remove all the leaves from the bottom half of the stem before you put it in potting mix or water. If the remaining leaves are large, cut them in half so the plant can still photosynthesis and feed itself while it is growing roots but not have too much greenery to keep alive. There are a number of different methods of taking cutting from different parts of the plant, depending upon the type of plant you are trying to grow. Layering is where part of the parent plant - a stem or branch- is pegged down in contact with the soil while still being attached to the parent plant. The point that is pegged down will grow roots and at that point it can be severed from the parent plant to form its own plant. The most common version of this are the runners sent out by a strawberry plant. Grafting is done to combine the attribute of the top - the flowers, growth habit or fruit - with the growth habit of the bottom ( the rootstock). A simple example is a grafted tomato. The tomato with its specific variety attributes eg Beefsteak, is grafted onto a gourd rootstock. The rootstock is much stronger than a tomatoes root system so the tomato plant grows faster and bigger than normal and produces the tomatoes faster than usual. It has a lot of benefits. Another example is to create a dwarf variety of fruit tree such as apple or citrus variety. The desired fruit is selected and the wood is grafted onto a weaker grower rootstock which means the tree will not grow as big or as strong while still producing fruit. It is important to note that if you ever see green leaves appearing from underneath the graft site ( the leaves of the rootstock) to remove them as soon as possible. If it starts to grow it will take the energy from the grafted material and cause it to weaken and die. Fruit trees and deciduous trees are commonly grafted. Budding is very similar to grafting except instead of a piece of stem being grafted into the rootstock, a bud is removed from the mother plant that has the desirable attributes for the ‘top’ and is slipped under the bark of the rootstock where it attaches and begins to grow. Roses are a common example of budding being used. Propagation is a really interesting skill to learn and develop and it is a useful way to gain new plants or add varieties to your garden at little or no cost.  Written for Gubba by Kelly Jean Reyland from Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)