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The winter care guide for strawberries: How to grow, care for & propagate strawberries   Strawberries are much loved by home gardeners, and a must-have in any edible garden. They’re generous, low-maintenance fruiters — rewarding you with basket loads of delicious treats for very little effort. To set yourself up for summer harvests, the key time to begin is during winter months. If you’re in a warmer climate, aim to plant from June to September. In regions with colder temperatures, snow-prone areas, late August — September is the best time to plant strawberries.  This guide covers both planting your strawberry beds with new plants, and maintaining an existing strawberry patch to keep its fruit production optimal for seasons to come.   Winter strawberry care and cold weather protection During the winter months strawberry plants enter dormancy, but that doesn’t mean your patch should be ignored. Winter is a great time to inspect your strawberry beds for signs of winter injury, like blackened crowns or dying-off runners. Cold temperatures, especially a late spring frost arriving unexpectedly, can cause lasting winter damage. Protecting your young plants with row covers or applying a winter mulch helps buffer against frost damage and cold weather. While the plants aren’t actively growing, winter is also a good time to prepare for the following year. If you’re planning a new bed, check the area and you can even do a soil test before planting. Aim for loose, well-drained soil amended with compost. Keep drainage in mind so you can reduce the risk of fungal diseases like gray mould during wet weather.    Choosing the right variety for your garden It can feel a little overwhelming standing in front of rows of seemingly identical strawberry plants at the garden centre. But if you look close, you’ll find each variety offers something a little different — whether that’s a longer harvest season or a unique flavour profile. Strawberry cultivars generally fall into two categories: short-day and day-neutral. Short-day varieties, like Pajaro and Camarosa, fruit earlier in spring. Day-neutral varieties, like Monterey and Sweet As, aren’t influenced by daylight length, so they fruit over a longer period with multiple flushes. If your goal is an early, abundant spring harvest, opt for short-day types. If you’d prefer a steady supply of berries into the warmer months, day-neutral strawberries are the way to go. For something a little more whimsical, try White Alpine Strawberries. These dainty wild berries have a distinctive flavour — sweet fruit, with hints of white chocolate. Their pale colour also keeps them hidden from birds, you’ll just have to beat the children to them!   Location, soil type & watering Strawberries thrive in a sunny, sheltered spot. Though they love warmth, remember they are woodland natives at heart and appreciate a little afternoon shade. A lightweight netting can do double duty — offering shade from intense summer sun and keeping hungry birds away. It’s best to plant strawberries into rich, fertile soil. It’s important to choose a spot with well-drained soil too.  Before planting, dig in generous amounts of compost, aged sheep manure/pellets or other organic matter.  In containers, use good quality potting mix and stay on top of feeding and watering.  Watering is key. Strawberries don’t like too much water or wet feet (they need good drainage), but letting them dry out (especially during fruiting season) will reduce their productivity.  Strawberry roots are shallow, so planting on raised mounds improves drainage. Make sure the crown of each plant is sitting just above the soil surface to prevent rot.   How many strawberry plants should I grow? As many as you can fit! To enjoy strawberries fresh, in baking and still have enough to freeze, you may need upwards of 20+ plants per person. But if you’re short on space, just 5 plants per person will give you small daily pickings — a bowlful of sun-warmed berries for breakfast or dessert.   Tending to an existing strawberry patch If you already have strawberry plants in the ground, now’s the time for a winter tidy up.  Remove brown, dead leaves and weed around the crowns. If your plants are three years or older, it’s time to replace them — they’ll be past their prime. You can either buy new plants from the nursery, or propagate your own from runners or by division.   How to propagate strawberry plants There are two main methods: From runners – Young plantlets form on long stems sent out from the mother plant. These can be pegged down into pots to root before detaching.  By division – Dividing older strawberry plants (lifting and separating at the crown) can refresh their vigour, give you more plants, and keep your patch productive. You will know when your plant is ready for division when it is more than three years old, and you may notice the plant is becoming very overgrown and crowded. The crown of the plant may even have started to die off, this is a common sign that they are due for a refresh. Division is a good option in the winter if you find you need more plants quickly and have no more runners to propagate from.   How to divide a strawberry plant Lift the plant Gently dig around the base of the mature strawberry plant with a fork or trowel. Lift it out carefully, keeping as much root intact as possible. Examine the plant Shake or rinse away the soil to get a clear view of the crown. You may notice the central section is beginning to die back — a sign the plant is past its prime. Around the outside, you’ll see smaller, naturally formed offshoots known as offsets. Each one should have its own roots and a leafy growing point — these are what you’ll separate and replant. Divide the plant Using your hand or snips, split the crown into sections. Each division should have:— A good root system— A strong growing point with leaves You can usually get 2-4 plants from one healthy parent plant. Replant immediately Plant each division into a small pot or straight into the ground. Make sure the crown (where leaves meet roots) is just above the soil surface. Firm in gently and water plants well. These new plants will fruit reliably for another 2-3 years.   Fertilising & mulching Winter is not the time to fertilise. Wait until early spring to apply a slow-release fertiliser suitable for fruiting plants to help with plant growth and fruit production. After feeding, apply a straw mulch, pine needles, leaf litter or wood chips — anything that mimics the forest floor. This helps with weed control, lock in soil moisture, and keep ripening fruit from rotting on the soil. Once your strawberries are in production, a fortnightly liquid feed will keep them flowering and fruiting.   Companion plants for strawberries Companion planting is a lovely way to support your strawberry patch naturally. Nasturtiums are excellent — they help deter pests (and some dappled shade). Herbs like thyme and basil are good neighbours that can help improve taste. Flowers such as borage and marigold bring in the pollinators. Remember winter is the quiet groundwork that leads to an overflowing summer garden and growing season. With a bit of attention now, your healthy plants will be ready to burst into spring with new growth and reward you for your efforts.   Whether you’re planting new strawberry plants or refreshing what’s already there, these small jobs now will make a big difference later. ________________________________________________ The Sage Journal Winter Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.

Composting isn’t complicated — it’s a key part of a healthy garden. This step-by-step guide covers the basics of compost bins, the difference between hot and cold methods, and simple tips for turning garden and kitchen waste into rich, usable compost.   There is no better time than autumn to get started on a compost pile. As the daylight hours dwindle and the temperatures drop, you’ll notice the garden shedding all signs of summer.  The leaves on the trees turn amber while the flowers blacken with seed heads, and we are compelled to ‘tidy up’ and put the garden to bed for winter. Amid this, we are consequently left with piles of prunings and deadheads which, if treated appropriately, can be transformed into garden gold come springtime.  Composting shouldn’t be seen as a daunting task, but rather an integral part of a flourishing garden. The trick to success with your compost pile is by simplifying it. Compost bins The simplest way to compost is to use a simple and purpose-designed compost bin. Many bins are a practical solution for small gardens where a ‘compost bay’ is not possible due to lack of space. While these bins can be a bit of an eye sore, if tucked behind a garden shed or fence, they are ideal for beginners who feel intimidated by a traditional pile.  Choose a compost bin with a strong, secure lid and can be rat-proofed by adding some reinforced steel mesh or chicken wire down the bottom and securing with cable ties. Rats can be a common problem and are usually one of the biggest hurdles for people when it comes to composting, so taking this step can make all the difference!  How to use a compost bin - Compost bins function like a giant soup pot – add in the ingredients (brown and green waste) and stir it until it breaks down.   Cold compost - Add ingredients gradually as materials become available.  This is the preferred method by many as storing materials can be difficult if you don’t have the space. This method is perfectly fine, especially if you are just trying to minimise your food waste and don’t intend to use the compost you make quickly.  The cold composting method takes a lot longer to produce usable compost but is a good way to continually break down the materials around your garden throughout the year.  Another point about cold compost is that because the pile doesn’t heat up quickly, you must be careful about what kind of food you put in. Meat, dairy and citrus can attract rodents and take a long time to break down in the bin.  Hot compost - Add ingredients all in one go.  This process is much faster to break down the materials. You can collect bags of brown  waste like leaves, wood chips and paper waste and store in an area like a garage or shed.  Designate a wheelie bin outside for green waste, like clean garden prunings and lawn clippings. Food scraps can be fermented inside a bokashi bin until you are ready to use. How to: hot compost for beginners   Collect materials – brown waste = dried leaves, paper waste, wood chips + green waste = lawn clippings, garden waste, bokashi.   Store in bags / bins until you are ready to build the pile.  When you’re ready, start by adding a good layer of wood chips. This will help with drainage.  Then begin to layer the green and brown waste until you have reached the top.   A good ratio is 40% green and 60% brown. If you don’t have enough greens your pile will fail to heat up but if you don’t have enough browns there will be lack of airflow and structure.   Add a bucket full of water into the bin at the halfway point, and once again when you reach the top.  Keep pushing the materials down as you build the pile. The pile won’t heat up if the volume of materials is too low.  Once full, close the lid and wait a few days.   After three days, use an aerator to turn the pile. This will be difficult the first time you  do this as the bin is so full and compacted. Go slowly and take your time.  A week later, check on your bin. The materials should be a lot more condensed and looking broken down. The pile should also be steaming – this is a good indication you have made a hot compost pile.  To keep the temperature up you must turn the pile again.  The purpose of turning the pile is that the centre will always be the hottest, so you must  move the cooler materials on the outside into the middle. This also helps to add oxygen into the pile.  Keep turning every few days from now on until the pile stops heating up.  Your pile must remain at a high temperature of 55 degrees for 1-2 weeks to kill  pathogens and weed seeds.  Once the temperature of the pile lowers, leave to cure for 12 weeks. This is an important step as using hot compost too early can risk burning your plants.  When worms return to the bin and soil appears crumbly and loose you may use the  compost in the garden.  This is when having two bins comes in handy, one can be left to cure while you build the next one.   ________________________________________________   The Sage Journal Autumn Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.

Sneeboer’s guide to winter tool maintenance There’s something rather grounding about caring for your garden tools. Maybe it’s the scent of linseed oil warming into the grain of a wooden handle, or the satisfying smoothness of a freshly sharpened blade. Whatever it is, these small acts of maintenance — often done in the off-season — connect us to the quieter side of gardening. At Gubba, we believe that quality tools are an investment, and like any good investment, they deserve to be looked after. Sneeboer tools, crafted in the Netherlands using traditional techniques, are built to last generations — but only if you show them a little love. Now is the perfect time. As the garden slows and the first frost arrives, it’s an ideal window to clean, sharpen and oil your tools so they’re rested and ready for the busy spring ahead. Why Maintain Your Garden Tools? Your tools are right there with you through every planting, weeding, digging, and pruning session. They tackle wet soil, stubborn roots, and the odd forgotten stone. Without care, metal rusts, wooden handles dry out, and blunt edges make even the simplest task hard work. Worn tools don’t just slow you down — they can damage plants and strain your hands. A few mindful minutes in autumn or winter helps preserve their strength, sharpness, and function for years to come. The Four-Step Ritual for Caring for Your Tools 1. Clean Start by removing soil, sap and debris. A Sneeboer hand brush works wonders here — it’s firm enough to scrub off dried-on dirt without harming the tool. For any tough rust spots, a wire brush or even a fine rust eraser can gently bring the metal back to life. Be sure to dry your tools thoroughly — moisture is the enemy of steel. 2. Sharpen Once clean, sharpening makes a huge difference. A sharp blade cuts cleanly and efficiently, saving you time and effort come spring. Use a Sneeboer sharpening stone or fine file and follow the natural bevel of the blade. For shovels, hoes, and hand tools, sharpening just once or twice a year is often enough. Tip: don’t rush. Take your time. Sharpening is as much about feel as it is about technique. 3. Oil This is the satisfying part. A good wipe-down with boiled linseed oil — included in the Sneeboer Maintenance Kit — protects both steel and timber. It prevents rust, feeds the wooden handles, and brings out the natural grain. Apply with a soft cloth and allow it to soak in. If it’s been a while, your tools may need two coats. Oiling handles keeps them supple and less prone to cracking, especially in changing humidity. 4. Store Smart Hang tools off the ground in a dry, well-ventilated space. Damp sheds or concrete floors can encourage rust. Use wall hooks or racks to give each tool a home. If you’ve sharpened blades, consider wrapping them or adding protective covers for safety. Out of sight doesn’t mean out of mind — good storage is the final act of care. The Sneeboer Maintenance Kit: All You Need, in One Place To make this ritual simple, Sneeboer has designed a complete Tool Maintenance Kit — beautifully practical and thoughtfully made. It includes: A wire brush for removing soil and rust A sharpening stone for clean, crisp edges A bottle of boiled linseed oil to condition and protect A soft cloth to apply oil and polish metal surfaces Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out with your first quality tools, this kit makes it easy to start strong — and stay sharp.

An autumn guide to harvesting, sorting, seed-saving and storing pumpkins and potatoes. As autumn approaches, gardeners are finally rewarded with the fruits of their labour. Autumnin the garden means harvest season, with pumpkins and potatoes, for many, being high on thelist. Understanding the right time to pick and how to store these crops can make a big differencein your winter pantry. Here are some straightforward tips to help you make the most of your precious harvests thisautumn. Harvesting pumpkinsYou’ll know it’s time to harvest pumpkins when they’re at a decent size, and the skin deepens in colour and hardens off. You will notice the vine begin to shrivel and dry too, and the tendrils closest to the pumpkin will die back completely.   At this point it’s ok to cut the pumpkin from the vine, leaving about 10cm of stem which helps the pumpkin to cure and prevent rot. A withered stem also prevents insects from entering and causing damage.  Once inside, don’t store on a cold, concrete floor or similar which can lead to rot. Store on top of cardboard, a piece of wood or even hang up inside a fabric or mesh bag.  Saving pumpkin seedsWhen the time comes to use your pumpkin, select the best-looking ones to save seeds from. You can simply scoop the seeds out and wash in a colander before leaving out on a paper towel to dry off. Once dried completely, you can store in a paper envelope to sow the following year. Pumpkin seeds can last for up to six years if stored correctly – in a cool, dry place away fromdirect sunlight. Harvesting potatoesYou can eat potatoes straight out of the ground after they’ve flowered, but if your intention is to store them over the winter, you need to wait until the potato plant yellows and dies back. Waiting 2-3 weeks after foliage die-back for the skins to harden can increase their storage ability. Waiting for a period of dry weather, if possible, will make the process easier. And leaving the soil on the potato to dry off before storing is best to avoid rot. Sorting & saving seed potatoesOnce harvested, you can sort the potatoes out into piles – for storage, to be eaten straight away or thrown away.  Any potatoes that have gone green or are rotting will have to be discarded. There will be potatoes that should be put into an ‘eat now’ pile. This mayinclude potatoes that have minor skin damage or feel a bit soft. Potatoes for storing will feel firm, with no wounds.  Harvest stage is a good time to save your seed potatoes for spring. To do this, pile each crop(all potatoes per plant) and select the healthiest looking potatoes from each pile. Store in asack in a cool, dark place to stop them from sprouting until next planting season. Winter storagePumpkins usually last three months in a cool, dry place but can store up to six months if you are lucky. Pumpkins continue to ripen after they are picked so storing upside down can aid in this process, and is said to make the pumpkin taste even sweeter. (Be careful not to damage the stalk if you choose to do this.) Potatoes prefer cool, slightly humid conditions, stored in the dark to prevent sprouting. A cardboard box with newspaper at the bottom or a sack below the pantry should be sufficient for most gardeners. The main thing to remember is that warmth and light will trigger sprouting in potatoes, so keeping them cool and dark is the main thing.________________________________________________The Sage Journal Autumn Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.

Planting perennials, propagating new plants and putting the perennial garden to bed for autumn and winter. Autumn is nature’s final flourish, bringing a golden hush to the garden as blooms fade and seed heads stand tall. There is beauty in this quiet decay, but with shorter days and rain setting in, you may notice your garden beginning to sag under the weight of fallen leaves and plant remains. When it’s time to put your garden bed to rest, it helps to know which plants need pulling out and which are simply due for a seasonal trim. A well-rounded garden often contains both annual and perennial plants, and they have quite different needs in autumn. In this guide, we’ll focus on perennial plants — what they are, how to care for them, and how to make the most of this transitional time of year. What is a perennial?A perennial is a plant that lives for more than two years, returning reliably each season, often with more vigour. You may have heard the phrase: “First year sleep, second year creep, third year leap.” This refers to how perennials typically take time to establish. Slowly in the first year, spreading in the second, and thriving by the third. Compared to annuals — which complete their life cycle in one season and need replanting next year — perennials are more reliable and require less long-term maintenance. When is the best time to plant perennials? That depends on the type of perennial and your local climate: Frost-sensitive perennials (like Salvia or Scented Geranium) are best planted in spring, especially in regions where winter temperatures dip below zero and there is risk of ground freezes. Dormant winter perennials (perennial flowers like Echinacea or Agastache) can be planted in early autumn to mid-autumn, before they die back for the season. Just remember where you plant them! (This is where plant tags can come in handy.) Herbaceous perennials and woody shrubs (like Achillea or Hydrangea) are perfect to plant in autumn. The cooler temperatures allow the root system to establish without the stress of the hot summers, and increased rainfall means less watering for you — win-win! Perennial pruning tipsPruning perennials can be a personal preference, but there are a few general guidelines worth considering: For a tidy look: Cut back perennials in late autumn, then finish with a layer of mulch for a clean, formal feel. For visual interest and to encourage local wildlife: Leave seed heads and dried stems in place through the winter months. They provide food and habitat for birds and insects, and add structural winter interest to the garden. Prune in late winter instead. For tender varieties: Delay pruning until after the last frost. The fresh growth of plants like Salvia or Penstemon may suffer if cut back too early. How to prune perennials: Use sharp, clean secateurs or garden knives Identify if the plant is herbaceous (soft plant stems) or woody. For herbaceous plants: Cut dead, brown material to around 20cm above the ground. Leave any green basal foliage intact. For woody perennials: Trim back by a third to half of the plant to prevent legginess. Don’t prune too heavily — some won’t recover! Bonus tip: Use healthy cuttings for propagation (see below). Time to lift & divide perennialsPerennials are the workhorses of the garden, but after a few years they can become crowded, woody or stop flowering. That’s when it’s time to lift and divide them. Signs it’s time to divide your plants: The plant is dying off in the centre Stems flop over Flowering is poor When to divide perennials: Spring-flowering perennials → Divide in autumn  Late summer/autumn-flowering perennials → Divide in spring How to divide perennials: Water well the day before. Use a spade to dig a wide circle around the plant. Gently lift it out. Tease apart the bare roots by hand or cut with snips/spade if needed. Replant with fresh compost and a dose of seaweed tonic to ease transplant shock. Propagating perennial plants by division or cuttings?Autumn is a great time to grow your perennial plant collection or share plants with friends. Free garden plants, yes please! After pruning or dividing, propagate cuttings or pot up divisions to establish over winter forspring planting. Some perennials can’t be divided and must be propagated from cuttings. Examples of theseare: Hydrangea, Salvia, Penstemon, Verbena bonariensis, Scented Geranium, Roses, Lavender, Rosemary, Mint and Chrysanthemum. How to take perennial cuttings: Choose non-flowering lateral shoots with healthy growth. Cut with clean snips and place in a ziplock bag to prevent moisture loss. Strip lower leaves, leaving two sets of leaves at the top. Use a free-draining mix (eg. potting soil + sand/pumice). Insert cuttings around the edge of the pot, where it’s moist and cool. Water, cover with a ziplock bag or humidity dome. Use a heat mat to speed up rooting (2–4 weeks). Pot each cutting individually and water with seaweed tonic. Let them mature before transplanting outdoors. Rearranging the garden borderAutumn is the ideal time to rearrange your perennial flowers and garden border. With summer still fresh in your mind, you’ll know where gaps appeared or where combinations fell flat. Because plant and root growth has slowed, now’s the perfect time to lift and relocate underperforming plants or adjust for better balance. Whether it’s too much full sun, too little moisture or just an uninspiring design — move them now and give them a chance to settle in before winter. Final autumn perennial plant care tipsWrap up your garden prep with a few simple and rewarding tasks: Weed thoroughly to start the next season clean. Weeds compete for nutrients and will rebound fast next spring. Feed your soil: For best results, Apply a liquid seaweed mix or a slow-release fertiliser like OceanFert and add organic matter: compost, aged manure, humates Mulch generously to protect roots, suppress weeds and improve moisture retention. Good options organic mulch options include: Wood chips, pea straw, compost, wool mulch Your autumn perennial to-do list: Plant suitable perennials (see above) Prune selectively, with local wildlife and frost in mind Divide overcrowded clumps Propagate new individual plants Rearrange borders if needed Feed, mulch and tidy up With a bit of thoughtful prep now, your garden will wake up in spring healthier, more vibrant and ready to leap into a new growing season. ________________________________________________ This is a Sage Journal Blog, written for the Gardening Series Sponsored by Bugg

Everything you need to know to prolong your dahlia flowers and prep your tubers for next season  Flowers are so fleeting. They’re such a good reminder to us to live in the present moment. And everyone’s (well, lots of peoples’!) favourite flower, the dahlia, is the perfect reminder of this in autumn at the end of the growing season.  Dahlias are beautiful flowers and long-lasting cut flowers — a must have in your garden beds. These late summer showstoppers take so many months of growing lush, leafy foliage with buds that seemingly take weeks to unfurl when they are young plants in your early summer garden. Finally, by the time we are blessed with abundant blooms, the risk of frost is threatening to end it all for us too soon. But before you start rushing out into the garden to call it a day on their showy blooms, there is still plenty more time left in the season to extend your harvests and prep for next season (as long as the frost-fairy stays away!).  In this article, you’ll find out what tasks you should be doing in early, mid and late autumn in the dahlia patch.  Frost & flowers Dahlias are frost tender perennials. Meaning they will be damaged by a heavy frost, where their foliage will blacken and die back to the underground tuber.   In New Zealand, the warmer climates (areas north of Christchurch) should remain frost-free throughout March and into April. By late April you may have experienced one or two light frosts, depending on your location.  For south of Christchurch, your summer season is typically shorter and, unfortunately, you may experience your first frost as early as the beginning of autumn. So, it pays to be vigilant and have your dahlias prepared for this (more on this below).  Early autumn: Keeping dahlias blooming Extend your harvest If you’re north of Christchurch, you’re in luck — there’s still time to enjoy bucket loads of dahlias! Keep deadheading spent flower heads, and your plants will continue their flower production.  When cutting, go deep into the plant to prevent it from becoming top-heavy.  Prevent disease As temperatures cool, pests and diseases become more active. Powdery mildew is a common issue for dahlias, but you can minimise its spread by removing lower leaves to for good air circulation and improve airflow. If powdery mildew appears on upper leaves, treat it quickly with a homemade milk tea spray. Watch for pests Katydids, caterpillars and earwigs love dahlias — and not in a good way! It’s a good idea to clear away dead plant material to avoid attracting these unwanted visitors. Think of it this way: a tidy garden means fewer pests looking for an easy meal.  Fertilising for continued blooms  If frost isn’t a concern in your area, you can give your dahlias one last feeding to encourage flowering into the winter months. Choose a phosphorus and potassium-rich fertiliser to support strong stems and blooms — avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilisers, as too much nitrogen can weaken tubers. A sprinkle of natural potash at the base of the plants before mulching works wonders for those floppy late-season blooms. Mid autumn: Prepping for the seasonal shift Reduce plant stress With warm days and cool nights, your dahlias plants will appreciate a little extra care. Start a fortnightly seaweed application — either as a soil drench to get beneath the soil surface or foliage spray — to give them a natural resilience boost.  Mulch for protection A layer of compost mulch not only insulates the soil on chilly nights but also helps the soil retain moisture during warmer autumn days. If you lift your tubers later, this mulch will mix nicely into the soil when the time comes.  Label before it’s too late The danger of frost is just around the corner, so autumn is the best time to label your plants! Whether you use tags or flagging tape, having clear labels will be invaluable when lifting and storing tubers.  Save dahlia seeds for a surprise Growing dahlia plants from seed is an exciting experiment, since they never grow back exactly the same as their parent plant. If you want to try breeding your own varieties of dahlias, allow some flowers to go to seed. Ideally, wait until the seed heads turn brown before harvesting, but if rain or frost threatens, pick them early and dry them indoors in a glass of water until they’re crisp.Late autumn: Wrapping up the season Cut back after frost  Once the first hard frost hits, your dahlia foliage will turn black. This is your cue to cut it back and compost the remains. If you don’t get hard frosts, mimic the process by trimming plants to about 20cm above the ground. If you’re leaving the tubers in the soil, mulch heavily around the base of the plants to protect the tuberous roots. If lifting, wait about two weeks to let the tubers harden before storage.  Lifting & cleaning tubers  Carefully dig around each clump, leaving a 10cm margin to avoid damaging the tubers. If your soil is heavy or wet, lift gently and use your hands if needed. Shake off excess soil or rinse lightly to check for disease, though leaving a bit of soil can help prevent drying out. Let them dry in a sunny location for a day or two before brushing off any remaining dirt.  Check for crown gall  While handling tubers, inspect for crown gall — a bacterial infection that appears as white, cauliflower-like growths on the crown or neck. If you spot it, the best thing is to discard affected tubers immediately — do not compost them.  Proper storage for healthy tubers  Store tubers in a frost-free, dry area. The best way to store dahlia tubers is in crates or cardboard boxes to allow good air circulation — airtight containers can trap moisture and cause rot. Keep them off concrete to prevent moisture loss, placing them on a shelf or table instead.  Monitor throughout the season  Check tubers regularly. If they start shrivelling, add damp potting mix. If mould appears, mix in vermiculite to absorb excess moisture. A little attention now ensures strong, healthy plants next spring! —   As autumn settles in, tending to your dahlias at the end of the season will set you up for success next season. Whether you're trying to extend their bloom cycle, preparing to store tubers or saving seeds, these simple steps ensure strong, healthy growth for your dahlias plants for next spring. A little effort now means you'll be rewarded with another season of abundant blooms — ready to steal the show all over again.   The Sage Journal Autumn Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.

A guide to harvesting and saving seeds from your most treasured plants, flowers and vegetables in autumn. The autumn garden may seem daunting to some… Plants tower and flop, pests are plentiful and rusty seed heads seem to outnumber the blooms. It’s at this time of year that we can feel a tad agitated as we wander the garden.  There is an urge to cut everything back and start fresh. If you, too, feel compelled to wipe the slate clean, don’t rush to toss it all into the compost bin and close the lid on the season.  Instead, muster that last bit of energy to save a few seed heads from your most treasured plants. We promise your energy will return, along with the promise of spring, and those little gems are the ticket to a flourishing garden once again.  Tips for saving seeds Select the healthiest plant(s) for seed saving. This is usually the first to flower or fruit, the tallest, tastiest, or most unique colour variation.  Do not cut off the flower or vegetable until the seed is ready for harvest.  If you’re saving seed from a flower, wait until the seed pod turns brown.  For fruits like tomatoes or pumpkins, wait until they ripen on the vine.  Protect the seed pod with a mesh bag if worried about birds or animals getting to it first. How to harvest seeds for saving Harvest on a sunny day, preferably in the afternoon or once morning dew has dried.  Cut off the seed pod and store in a breathable container (like a cardboard box or bag) in a cool, dry area for two weeks.  You can begin to separate seeds from the chaff after this time. How to sort seeds for saving There are several methods to use for separating out the seed from the chaff:  Manual removalSome seeds are large and can be easily removed from the pod. This is the case for the legume family like sweet peas, peas, beans and lupin, or flowers like calendula, sunflowers or cornflowers.  Shaking in a bagSome seed pods can be placed into a sealed ziplock bag and given a good shake to loosen the seed. This is a helpful method for flowers such as hyssop, foxglove, nigella or poppy.   Blowing or winnowingOther pods, like cosmos, can be broken apart and given a gentle blow to separate the chaff from the seed. ColanderBreak up seed heads and let the seed fall through the gaps with the remaining chaff left at the top. This technique is helpful for brassicas, leek, parsleyor coriander seed.  Paper towelSeeds inside fleshy fruit like tomatoes or pumpkins can be washed and drained inside a sieve and left to dry on top of a paper towel.  Tomato seeds will stick to the paper towel but remain viable. Simply sow the paper towel when the time comes to germinate.   How to store your harvested seeds Store in an airtight container or ziplock bag and label with the plant name and harvest date.  Freshness matters. Use within one year for optimal viability. (Seeds can last for up to six years if stored correctly, although you may notice germination rates decrease the older the seed is.) Store in a dark, cool place away from direct sunlight and extreme heat to prolong seed life. Cross-pollination of seeds Some types of vegetables and flowers can cross-pollinate, resulting in offspring different from the parent. This is more common in flowers than it is in vegetables. Flowers that are known to cross-pollinate are: Dahlias, cosmos, poppies and zinnias.  Legumes like sweet peas, beans and peasall self-pollinate, ensuring consistent traits in saved seeds.  Tomatoes are mainly self-pollinating but can be cross-pollinated by manually transferring pollen.  Experimentation with cross-pollination can lead to new cultivars and exciting discoveries in your garden! —Once you have squirrelled away some seeds, you can choose to scatter them around the  garden in autumn (only if they are hardy) or wait until spring.  — Saving seeds is an easy and cost effective way of increasing the stock of the vegetables and flowers you love in your garden. There are many benefits to saving seed. It opens the door for you to appreciate the life cycle of plants and the possibilities of plant breeding.  Seeds harvested from your own garden will be more suited to your garden’s climate and as a result, you will notice that the plants adapt and become more resilient to the environmental conditions and pests in your area.   The Sage Journal Autumn Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.

  As the seasons shift from late summer into autumn and the garden begins to wind down, it's the best time to look ahead and set the groundwork for next spring.  While spring flowers may feel like a distant dream, the work we do in autumn plays a crucial role in bringing them to life. Among the most rewarding tasks is selecting, chilling and planting spring-flowering bulbs — small but powerful packets of potential that will transform a grey, lifeless garden after the winter months.  In this guide, we’ll walk through everything you need to know, from where to source the best bulbs and which varieties best suit your space. To essential planting techniques, chilling requirements and aftercare tips to ensure a garden popping with joy when spring arrives. Where to order spring-blooming bulbs In the autumn time, you will see spring bulbs popping up for sale everywhere online and in the garden centres. There are a range of different suppliers who sell bulbs, and it can really depends on how many you would like to buy which will determine where you source your bulbs from.  If you are interested in starting small, with a pot or two for springtime, then your local garden centre will have everything you need.  But if you are in the market for a larger quantity of bulbs, you will find better deals online with suppliers who sell in bulk, like NZ Bulbs or Bulbs Direct.  Then there are boutique growers who offer specialty spring bulbs and corms. These growers carefully select varieties based on their strength and reliability as a cut flower. If you are interested in growing spring bulbs as cut flowers, then check out retailers such as Gray Floral and Emerden for their range of the most gorgeous ranunculus, anemone, tulips and daffodil bulbs. What variety of bulbs are best  When it comes to selecting the varieties of bulbs, there are some that are suited more towards growing in pots versus growing in the garden, some that you will treat as annual plants versus perennials, and some that grow better in shade or partial shade versus full sun. When selecting your bulbs, think about the intended growing conditions to find the most suitable candidates.  Bulbs for pots Peony tulips ‘Foxtrot’ and ‘Double Price’  Dwarf daffodils ‘Tete-a-Tete' and ‘Thalia’  Hyacinth Iris reticulata (aka Dwarf Iris) Bulbs for cut flowers  Daffodil ‘Ice Follies’ and ‘Bridal Crown’  Tulip single ‘Clearwater,’ Peony tulips ‘Verona’   Fringed tulip ‘Mascotte’  Parrot tulip ‘Cabanna’  Anemone ‘Rosa Chiaro,’ 'Lavender’ and ‘Bianco’  Dutch iris  Ranunculus Bulbs for naturalising  'Naturalising' means planting bulbs with the intention of leaving them in the ground for several  years — or even indefinitely — allowing them to multiply naturally and bloom each season. While some bulbs naturalise easily, others are less suited to this approach. Here are some bulbs that will easily ‘naturalise’ in a New Zealand garden.  Muscari  Tulip Darwin hybrid series — eg. ‘Triple A’, ‘Hakuun’ or ‘Pink Impression’  Daffodil Leucojum (aka Snowflake narcissus)  Daffodil ‘King Alfred’ Bulbs for shade  Bluebells Crocus Convallaria majalis (aka Lily of the valley) Please note: depending on your climate zone, some of these bulbs may be more suited to your garden than others. Those in warmer climates may struggle to grow bulbs that require a cold winter. What to do when your bulbs arrive  Once you have ordered or purchased your bulbs, open the packet straight away and inspect the bulbs to make sure there are no signs of rot or mould. Rot and mould can easily spread to other healthy tulip bulbs, so it is important to promptly remove and bin them. Visually check for signs and give each bulb a nice squeeze — they should be hard and firm, not soft and squidgy.  Once you have inspected your bulbs you can move them into a clean brown paper bag (clearly labelled) and continue to store until planting time.  Prechilling - for tulip bulbs only For areas North of Christchurch, it is recommended to prechill your tulip bulbs in the fridge for 6-8 weeks before planting. This period of prechilling mimics the freezing temperatures that tulips require to form long stems that are suitable for cutting. Without this chilling time, you will likely have very stumpy and short tulips. You can start this process of chilling your bulbs from mid March to early April.  To chill your bulbs, it is best to store them in a clean paper bag with a temperature of around 4 degrees Celcius. Care must be taken not to freeze the bulbs, or they will not survive. During this time, do not store fruit in the fridge (or if you must try an airtight container) to protect the bulbs from ethylene gas, which can destroy the forming flower. Periodically check on your bulbs to ensure they are not frozen or developing mould.  If you live South of Christchurch, you can skip this process, as the soil temperature over winter is cold enough. When is the right time to plant spring bulbs For areas South of Christchurch, you want the longest possible chilling period for tulips to develop long stems. You may also need to get the rest of your spring bulbs in the ground before it hardens or there is snow (if that is your kind of climate). However, waiting until the weather cools is recommended so when you do plant your bulbs, they can begin this ‘chilling’ process immediately. Therefore, planting spring bulbs can begin as early as April through to May, depending on your location.  For our warmer climate areas, you will find after prechilling in the fridge for 6-8 weeks that your tulip bulbs will not be ready to plant out until late May (late autumn). Don't panic if you see others planting their tulip bulbs earlier. As long as you know you have given your bulbs a period of 6-8 weeks in the fridge, you will be rewarded with quality, long stemmed flowers come spring. The remainder of your spring bulbs can also be planted out around this time (or earlier if preferred) as they don’t require prechilling. How to plant bulbs in pots  Choose a large pot — something at least 30cm x 30cm is best. Good drainage is one of the most important components with bulbs as they do rot easily. To avoid this, make sure the pot has a few drainage holes, and cover with broken pieces of pottery or pebbles in the base to prevent the holes from becoming clogged with soil.  Choose a specialty bulb potting mix which has all the added nutrients the bulbs will need.  You can plant your bulbs closer in pots than in the garden. Just make sure they are not touching each other or the side of the pot. A good rule of thumb for planting depth is twice the height of the bulb — 0-10cm for smaller bulbs and 10-20cm for larger bulbs.  It's a good idea to cover the pots with some form of protection from birds or other pests (like rats!) that will dig up the bulbs and eat them. Netting, chicken wire or an upside-down wire basket can work well to deter them. How to plant spring bulbs in the garden Select a suitable planting area in the garden for your bulbs — whether that is full sun, partial shade or full shade — and work in a decent amount of organic matter like compost or sheep pellets into the garden soil. If you have heavy clay soil, you may need to add coarse sand or potting mix into the hole to aid drainage. Bulbs like well-drained soil. To achieve a full look in the garden, plant bulbs in drifts or clusters of 10-25 bulbs — this will give you maximum impact. Most bulbs have a flat end where the roots grow from and a pointed end which is where the flower appears from. Therefore, make sure to plant the pointed end facing upwards.  Like with pots, you want to plant the bulbs at least twice their own depth. Dig a planting hole or trench, and if your soil is heavy clay this is when you can add a 5cm layer of coarse sand or spent potting mix to improve drainage. Position the bulbs at the base, ensuring there is a gap of at least three times the bulb’s width between each one. Cover them with soil, mixing in potting mix if needed. Once planted, water them to help settle them in and remove air pockets.  If you are planting a large number of bulbs in the garden or paddocks, the Sneeboer Great Dixter Bulb Planter is a must. Otherwise try hand tools like this planting trowel or a hori hori.Watering & fertilising   In the first few weeks, you want to be watering more frequently as the roots are developing — being especially mindful with the pots, not to let the potting mix dry out but also not to be so heavy handed that you rot the bulbs.  Bulbs do not need any fertiliser at planting time. Wait until spring when the growth of the bulb foliage speeds up and flowering is imminent. This is when the bulbs are expending the most energy and will benefit from fertilising to encourage more spectacular blooms. This also helps to form the flowers for next season.  You can use quality seaweed mix, bulb fertiliser or slow-release potash fertiliser.   Bulb planting aftercare Picking flowers For most spring bulbs, it is best to leave as much of the foliage as possible when cutting the flowers as this is how the bulb gathers its energy to store over the dormant cold period. Therefore, it is best to be mindful of your expectations for the coming year.  For tulips, most cut flower growers will treat these bulbs as an annual plant, pulling the entire bulb up when harvesting to increase the stem length. But if you would prefer to leave the flowers to enjoy them in the garden, once the flowers fade and seedheads start to form it is important to snip these off quickly, so the bulb does not expend its energy. Leave all the foliage to go brown and die back naturally. This can be difficult for the tidy gardener who wants to clean up an unsightly mess! But, if you want flowers for the following year this is crucial. If you don't like the look of this, plant seedlings like cosmos, hyssop or Shirley poppies, which will grow quickly and conceal the undergrowth.  Once everything has died back you can go ahead and tidy up before mulching with a quality compost (if in the garden).  For pots, you may choose to lift your bulbs and store over summer. Store in a cardboard box, somewhere cool and dry where they are not exposed to damp.  Planting spring bulbs is a pretty easy way to bring colour and life to your garden after the winter months. Though there is a little planning with choosing different bulbs and the right varieties, and taking time to prepare pots or soil correctly, you will be rewarded with beautiful spring blooms.  Whether you are filling pots on your patio, creating swathes of colour in the garden, or experimenting with growing cut flowers for the garden, bulbs are an easy, reliable way to welcome spring. Plant them in autumn, and let nature take care of the rest. ________________________________________________   The Sage Journal Autumn Gardening Series is supported by Gubba Garden Store.  

Like any good gardener, your seed packet collection may have tripled in size over the  summer as you eagerly pinned hundreds of photos on your “Cut Flower Garden” mood board.   Now the time has come to sow and you are left wondering whether your portable nursery  greenhouse is going to cut the mustard. With traditional trays, you’d be lucky to squeeze in  100 of your favourites. And I can see you sweating now cause trust me, you have more  favourites than that. Much more.  Take a deep breath garden besties, what if I told you, there was another way.  Yup, leave the greenhouse shuffle a thing of the past this Autumn because Soil Blocking is  the new, space saving hack that every gardener needs in their life.  2025 was the year I vowed never to run out of space again and finally kicked up the courage  to give soil blocking a go. Admittedly, I was intimidated because you see I’ve never really  been any good at baking and honestly, those blocks looked strangely like my favourite  chocolate brownie recipe.  Hesitantly, I decided to put my big girl pants on and just give it a go. Failure or not I was not  going to let another autumn go by without trying this, supposedly ‘revolutionary’ sowing  technique.  What is Soil Blocking? Soil blocking is a way of starting seeds in compacted soil rather than plastic pots or trays.  You may think this is a newly invented way of sowing but in reality, soil blocking has been  around for centuries.  You see there is evidence to suggest that Aztec used 'soil blocks’ in their floating gardens of  Mexico City. Basically, they would take nutrient dense mud and sediment from lake beds  and form soil cubes to grow their vegetable seedlings in. Cool right?  This ancient old technique was modernised with the invention of a specialised hand  blocking tool by engineer, Michael Ladbrooke and proved hugely popular with European  growers. Following a resurgence in the 1970s to the American market, the rest is history.  What are the benefits of Soil Blocking? With so many benefits of soil blocking, it is easy to see why gardeners all around the globe  are adopting this technique.   SPACE SAVING - This idea of growing more seeds in less space is what appealed to me initially about Soil  Blocking. As a micro flower farmer, I am sowing thousands of seeds in Autumn and I do so  without the use of a traditional greenhouse set up.  Like many home gardeners, I’m limited on space. My propagation room is a couple of  shelves, grow lights and heat mats in my garage and believe me when I say that the juggle is  real.  Enter the micro soil blocker. With this little gem, you can fit 120 seedlings onto one tray! And  when my standard shelf holds 10 trays, well, you do the math.  EFFICIENT - In the past, I have had to sow into punnets and then was dealt the laborious task of pricking  out all the seeds I thought it was a good idea to sow.  I’m ashamed to admit, many times my pricking out was delayed. Leaving seedlings rather  shocked and stunted when the time came to transplant. But with soil blocking there is no  need to prick out.  That part of the sowing process is completely gone – forever! This speeds up the process and  makes the whole journey from seed to transplant just so much more efficient.   HEALTHIER SEEDLINGS - Because the seedlings do not have to go through a pricking out process, they are ultimately  subjected to less root disturbance and transplant shock.   Traditional practices of growing seedlings into cells can also leave the seedling root bound.  Roots grow downwards and then circle around the pot. This makes it harder for the plant to  settle once transplanted into the garden.   With soil blocking the roots are air pruned. This means when they hit the side of the block  (dry air) they stop growing in that direction and instead develop more lateral (horizontal)  roots from the main stem. This results in a more branched, compact and healthy root system.  SUSTAINABLE - Of course, without the need of plastic pots, this practice of Soil Blocking is a lot more  sustainable. Plastic pots tend to disintegrate over time and need replacing. With the soil  blocking tool, you will buy this once and it will last you a lifetime.  Everything you need to get Soil Blocking Materials:  Soil Blocker Micro 20  Soil Blocker Mini 4 or Mini 5 (depending on your preference) - DIY soil blocker mix (see recipe below)  Cafeteria tray   Sistema tub  Brick trowel  Seeds   Vermiculite  Heat mat (optional)  Grow lights (optional)  The Nitty Gritty on Soil Blocking Tools  When it comes to selecting a hand-held soil blocking tool, there are many options on the  market but through my research I found that the OG Ladbrooke, designed and manufactured  in the UK is the absolute best money can buy.  The Micro 20 Soil Blocker  This soil blocker is a must, especially for small-space gardeners and if you can only afford  one soil blocker then this would be my recommendation. The tool makes 20 cubes of 2 x 2cm and is ideal for starting your small cut flower seeds that require light to germinate.  The Micro 20 also has the added benefit of needing less soil to make the cubes which is why I  prefer them and will only use the Mini 4 or 5 for larger seeds or when you need to pot on.  The Mini 4 or Mini 5 Soil Blocker makes 4 or 5, 5 x 5cm cubes of soil.   The Mini 4 Soil Blocker is needed to ‘pot on’ your Micro Blocks prior to planting out (however you may choose to skip  this step, but it requires getting your timing just right!).  The Mini 5 soil blocker is ideal for larger seeds like Sweet Peas that need to be buried underneath the soil. If you are  sowing vegetable seeds then you will likely need this size to accommodate large seeds like  Cucurbits, Legumes and Tomatoes.   Seed pins are included in the Mini Soil Blocks, but you will need to purchase Cube Inserts  and Dowel Pins separately.  Seed Pins - create small holes into the soil block for sowing your seeds directly into. Dowel Pins - create deeper holes suitable for larger seeds and cuttings.  Cube Insert (compatible with the Mini 4 only) - When fitted into the Soil Blocker - Mini 4,  the Cube Inserts make a square hole to ‘pot on’ seedlings started in the Soil Blocker - Micro  20.   DIY Soil Blocking Recipe (makes 24 micro soil blocks, total of 240 seedlings)  6 cups Seed raising mix or weed free garden soil  6 cups Coconut coir  3 cups Compost  1 1/2 cups Perlite or Coarse Sand   Worm castings (optional) There are many recipes available, and I recommend experimenting with different ingredients  to find what works for you. Personally, I prefer using seed raising mix to garden soil and the  reason is, I find it difficult to source weed-free topsoil. If you are a beginner grower, things  can get confusing if weeds begin to sprout in your seed blocks. I have been known in the past  to nurture a weed seed for many months before realising, so something to bear in mind.  The other reason I like seed raising mix is that is has the right amount of added nutrients for  the little seeds, meaning you do not need to add any amendments. A lot of recipes call for  added fertilisers but I prefer seaweed feeds every week until planting in the garden. (Remember too much fertiliser can cause more damage to a seedling than none at all.)   Worm castings are icing on the cake if you have them as they will inoculate your soil blocks  with beneficial microbes from the beginning and further strengthen the health of your  seedling. How to Make the Soil Blocks  1. Start by soaking your coconut coir block in water according to instructions. 2. Mix the DIY Soil Block recipe ingredients together in a large sistema tub. 3. Add water a small amount at a time, mixing as you go. Soil blocks need to be wetter than traditional seed trays, but you have to pay attention not to overwater or the soil  won’t stick together.   The best way to tell if you have added enough water is to pick up the soil in your hand, give it  a good squeeze so water runs off and then release. If it sticks together, you are ready to go.  If it crumbles or water does not run out when squeezing, you need more liquid!  4. Next make a pile of soil in your tub and press the tool into the soil. Hold down firmly,  twisting slightly as you do so to compress the soil inside. This may take you a couple  of tries to get your technique right but as you do, you’ll notice water seeping from the  top of the soil blocker, and you will know it is firmly compressed inside.  5. Lift the soil blocker up and have a look underneath. You may find the soil has  mounded slightly and this is where the brick trowel comes in handy. Take the trowel  and scrape the excess from the bottom creating a smooth surface. You can also use  this trowel to further compact the soil inside the blocks.  6. Place the soil blocker on a clean, cafeteria tray and release the spring by pressing  down on the handle. Go carefully, as to no knock your blocks and break them. This  may take a couple of attempts. If you need to redo any, simply use the trowel to pick  them up and place them back in the soil mix.  7. Once you have made all your soil blocks it is time to sow the seeds.  It is no different to sowing in pots or trays. Make sure to read the instructions and sow at the  correct depth. For small seeds like Snapdragons and Poppies, you must surface sow. Only  covering with a fine dusting of vermiculite as they need light for germination. For seeds like  Larkspur or Phlox, these need darkness and therefore you must bury the seed or place the  whole tray in a dark cupboard until germination occurs.  *helpful tip, when sowing seeds make sure to group seeds with similar germination times on  the same tray!   8. Place trays into a clean sistema tub and position in an area with consistent warmth  + light to aid germination. If you do not have access to a heat mat or grow lights, then  you can use a warm room with ample light from a window etc until germination  occurs then move outdoors inside the tubs to grow on. Maximum light following  germination is essential to prevent seedlings from becoming leggy. Watering Tips  Watering is probably one of the most important parts of the whole process and can take  some getting used to if you have only used pots before. Soil blocks will dry out more quickly  than pots or cells do. You need to be mindful of this and prepared to water daily.  The sistema tub will keep up humidity (which is essential for germination). But still the  blocks will dry out without additional water. I prefer to bottom water, to do this fill the cafeteria tray with a cup or so of water daily for the blocks to soak up.  Care must be taken with using a hose or watering can if watering from above. Fine seeds can  easily become dislodged and therefore if you do prefer watering from above, using a mist  setting or spray bottle is recommended.  What’s Next?  Once 50% of the seeds have germinated you can move the soil blocks from the heat mat. I  prefer to take them out of the tub (less humidity at this stage will prevent the seedling from  going leggy) and allow them to acclimatise indoors until the remaining of the seeds have  popped up before placing back into the tub and moving outdoors. Reminder to keep an eye  on watering at this time and do not allow to dry out.  When they are outside, you can place the tub lid on during the nighttime, this will protect  them from heavy rain or slug attacks. While they are still young, do not subject them to harsh  sunlight. This will quickly dry out the blocks and scorch the seedlings.  After about 4 weeks of growing in the micro blocks you will need to either pot on or transplant  into the garden. Before you transplant into the garden, make sure to harden off sufficiently  (gradually increasing the level of sun exposure over a period of 3 days.)  Cool hardy annuals thrive in Soil Blocks, here’s a list of my favourite varieties of cool  flowers to start in March/April:  Ranunculus  Snapdragons  Icelandic Poppies  Stock  Ammi majus or visnaga  Orlaya  Cornflower  Nigella Calendula  Larkspur  Foxglove  Phlox  Statice  Strawflower  Matricaria  Scabiosa  Mignonette  Buplureum  Agrostemma  Persian Cress  Honeywort  Sweet William  Sweet Rocket  Achillea  Delphinium  Tweedia  So, there you have it—your foolproof guide to soil blocking! Whether you’re working with a  tiny grow space or simply looking to give your seedlings the best start possible, this method  is a total game-changer. Not only will you save space, time, and resources, but you’ll also  be nurturing healthier, happier plants from the get-go.   If you’ve been on the fence about trying soil blocking, consider this your sign to dive in. Give  it a go, experiment with your mix, and watch as your seedlings flourish. Who knows? By this  time next year, you might just be wondering how you ever gardened without it.   Happy sowing, garden besties!  Written for Gubba, by Elly Keen