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Whether by necessity or for looks, container gardening has been around since people started living in cities. The container itself is really limited only by your imagination and drainage holes! You can choose from ceramic, metal, terracotta, plastic or even glass. The rule of thumb to follow for successful container gardening is choose the plant and get a suitable sized pot for it to grow into or choose a suitable sized plant to grow into the pot that you already have. Issues tend to occur when the pot is the right size for the plant right now but there is no room for the plant to grow. Small pots dry out very quickly and root bound plants (the roots have no space to grow so they grow round in circles, filling the pot) in small pots even more so. So please ensure that there is room for the plant to grow into the pot or be prepared to repot into the next size of pot each year or so. Some plants can even break the pot if they get too full of roots. There are plenty of options to plant in the pot – if you have a position in mind for your pots, select plants that thrive in those conditions. Is it full shade – part shade – full sun? Also choose plants that need similar living conditions and water requirements so they can live happily together in the same pot.   Do you want the planting to be permanent or is this a container that you want to change each season? If it is permanent – do you want it to be evergreen or deciduous (sheds its leaves in autumn)? Evergreen plants will shed a few leaves regularly but will look the same year-round. Deciduous plants shed all their leaves over the space of a week or so but there is generally the bonus of seasonal interest in the way of foliage changing colour in autumn and potentially spring blossom. A word on potting mix. You get what you pay for. If you are planting trees or shrubs that are going to be in the pots for years, I highly recommend that you invest in a premium potting mix. They have all the additions such as wetting crystals and coir fibre that help a plant thrive long term. The slow-release fertiliser will run out, generally in 9 months to 1 year. After that you are responsible for feeding your plants. If you are planting containers that will be changed every season, you have the opportunity to refresh and add new potting mix. In this situation you can use a middle range potting mix where the fertiliser won’t last as long. The cheapest bags will have little to no slow-release fertiliser and no extras. If your potted plants aren’t thriving it could be they are planted into cheap potting mix. Compost or garden soil shouldn’t be used in pots in place of potting mix. Compost is too rich and is still breaking down so it can get quite warm in the process and shrinks down quite a lot. Soil is full of living organisms that need access to the other living organisms around them so when we contain them in a pot and cut off access, they die off and the soil structure becomes very compacted. Feeding and watering your potted plants is vital if you want a good display and healthy plants. As mentioned in the word about potting mix, the slow-release fertiliser will only last for so long, anywhere from 3 months to 1 year. After that time, there are nutrients in the mix to feed the plant. So ensure that you put a reminder on your calendar to top up slow-release fertiliser and during the warmer months, top up with a liquid fertiliser to give them a boost. Liquid seaweed and kelp pellets are a great health tonic, but they don’t replace fertiliser. Granular fertiliser from Tui or Yates are too strong for use in pots and will state on the packet if they are not recommended for use in pots. If you have dogs, avoid using blood and bone or dried blood in your pots as you may come home to find the plants pulled out of the pot and potting mix everywhere.   Watering is particularly important in pots as the roots are contained and can’t go searching deeper for water. Pots are generally free draining unless the pot has a saucer under it. With a saucer in place, they can stay quite damp so consider what you are planting into them. When planting larger shrubs or trees, you can mix up to one quarter of compost into the potting mix as this will help retain more water. This will help prevent stress during the warmer months. It’s not uncommon to need to water larger potted plants twice in the hottest summer months.   Potted plants don’t tend to need much watering over the cooler months as they don’t physically require as much water and rain will generally provide ample moisture. Keep an eye on the pots though as you can get areas that are sheltered from rainfall by buildings or other plants, and these will need hand watered when necessary. Make sure you turn off any automated irrigation systems. As with any potted plants, the general rule of thumb is to water deeply, less often rather than a light sprinkle every day. Plants should be allowed to dry out (just not completely!) before watering again. It’s best to water in the morning and if possible, only water the soil rather than over the foliage to help prevent fungal disease. If you have drippers or sprinklers set up in your pots, it’s best if these are used in the morning so the plant has the moisture available during the heat of the day. But again, you need to keep an eye on your pots – especially if it is on an electronic timer- because it will water them on schedule regardless of whether they need it or not. After your pots have been planted for several months, it pays to take notice if the water you apply is running straight out the bottom of the pot. Or after you finish watering, when you scratch below the surface of the potting mix, it is still dry. Potting mix can become hydrophobic where it repels water. It also happens to soil in garden areas where it doesn’t get rainfall such as under house eaves. In this situation you need to apply a soil ‘re-wetter’ that will remedy the issue and get the mix absorbing water again. Saturaid and Yates ‘Concentrated soil wetter’ will both sort this issue out. Container gardening is hugely rewarding, particularly when you don’t have a lot of garden space or a big section. Many plants can be grown very successfully in a container. The key to beautiful thriving pots is to put some thought into what you’re going to plant beforehand, get the right stuff for planting them and keep a regular eye on them once they’re planted! You can enjoy a garden wherever you live, and you can take it with you if you leave. That’s a big bonus!  By Kelly Jean Reyland of Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz) Images:"Container garden" by Richard Masoner / Cyclelicious is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0."container garden on the patio" by thomas pix is licensed under CC BY 2.0.

Spring is on the horizon and with it, warm weather and planting your spring /summer veggie garden. While some people are itching to get their tomatoes planted at the first sign of warmth – please wait! For most of NZ, it’s still a while yet before the soil and air temperatures rise enough and the threat of frosts has passed. August is prep time in the vegetable garden. Time to look back at the previous garden and remember what was planted where. It’s always good to look at what went well and what didn’t when you are planning what to grow for this year. Keep in mind that best practice is to not plant the same plant in the same place year after year; this helps to prevent pests and diseases building up. Crop rotation also ensures the plants don’t all need the same nutrients year after year and enables the soil nutrients to be used or replenished strategically. If you are an avid veggie gardener and grow year round, it doesn’t hurt to give the soil a little rest before planting the summer garden. Turn the soil over, mix in some compost and fertiliser and leave it to settle for a few weeks before planting begins. If you are a summer gardener and the garden has been left over winter, you may need to remove some weeds before doing the same thing as above.   A word on fertiliser – consider what you are planting and what grew in that spot the previous year. Plants need a combination of nutrients and minerals but broadly speaking, leafy plants need nitrogen for green leafy growth, root crops need phosphate for root development and flowering plants need potassium for flower/fruit development so choose an appropriate fertiliser to apply. An organic based fertiliser such as sheep pellets has the benefit of improving your soil as well as feeding the plant so that is always a good base to start from. There is more on improving the soil later in this blog. You can apply a specific granular fertiliser such as tomato fertiliser to ensure the correct mix of nutrients are present during the growing season. Good soil is the key to good harvests. Any improvement you can make to your soil will pay back in healthier plants and increased yields. In any soil, whether it is heavy clay right through to light and sandy, the best thing you can do is add compost and do it at least once or twice a year, every year. Compost is organic matter, which helps free draining sandy soil retain more moisture and nutrients. It will also help break up the very small and tightly packed clay particles to improve the soil structure, drainage and access to nutrients in clay soils. Every time you harvest vegetables and are about to plant something new in that spot, dig some compost into the soil before planting. Spread a layer around as mulch to help conserve soil moisture if it’s in a garden that you don’t dig over. It will get incorporated into the soil by the earthworms, it just takes a little longer than digging it in. Compost has the ability - over time - to turn rubbish or average soil into excellent soil. Another way you can add organic matter to the soil is to plant a ‘green manure crop’ in spaces that will be empty for a while, the winter vegetable garden can be a prime example. Sow a crop of lupin, mustard or oats, let them grow for a minimum of 6 weeks or you can let them grow until they are about to flower. At this stage you cut them down - the finer the better- with hedge shears and then dig them into the soil. You need to give them time to break down into the soil before replanting so allow plenty of time if you’re going to do this. Don’t pull them out by the roots. The entire plant with the top (cut up finely) needs to be dug into the soil. The finer the top is chopped, the faster it will break down into the soil.   There are other benefits to a green manure crop than just improving the soil. Lupins take nitrogen out of the air and fix it as nodules on the plant's roots, natural fertiliser at its best! Mustard is a natural soil cleanser, and an effective remedy if you find wireworms in your potatoes. As Alexander Graham Bell once said, “before anything else, preparation is the key to success”. So spend some time planning and preparing your veggie garden and the rewards will follow! By Kelly Jean Reyland of Garden Advice NZ (www.gardenadvice.co.nz)

Gardeners around the globe have harnessed the power of seaweed for thousands of years, using this rich source of nutrients to improve soil quality and promote healthy plant growth. Today, there are plenty of amazing, organic seaweed fertilisers available (in fact, you can find a few right here), but did you know that you can easily make your own seaweed tonic at home? Seaweed is packed full of minerals, trace elements, and growth-promoting hormones, making it an excellent organic fertiliser. If you live near the coast and have access to seaweed, get ready to roll up your sleeves and get gathering: Step 1: Harvest This can be a fun weekend activity (especially with the kids in tow), or get your gumboots on and brave a stormy, wintery day. Here in NZ we are lucky to have such an accessible coastline - most of us are never too far from the sea! You can collect various different types of seaweed, but the main variety you’ll find here is kelp. It's best to collect seaweed that has washed up on the shore and is no longer submerged in saltwater. Take a cart (like the one pictured), or a garden bag to collect your seaweed spoils. Step 2: Rinse After collecting your seaweed, rinse it thoroughly with fresh water to remove excess salt, sand, and any other debris. This step is essential! Step 3: Chop Cut or chop your seaweed into small-ish pieces using scissors or a knife. This will make it easier to handle, and also accelerates the decomposition process. Step 4: Soak Now to create your Seaweed Solution! Place the chopped seaweed in a large container or bucket, then add water to completely submerge it. Let the seaweed soak in water for about 8 weeks. Stir the mixture occasionally, and watch water turn brown as the nutrients from the seaweed leach into the solution. Step 5: Dilute The resulting liquid fertiliser will need to be diluted with water before using it on your plants. A common dilution ratio is 1 part seaweed fertiliser to 3-4 parts water. Step 6: Apply Once you’ve diluted your seaweed fertiliser, you can use it to water your plants or as a foliar spray. Both methods are beneficial for providing nutrients and improving plant health. Apply the fertiliser every 2-4 weeks during the growing season, and watch as your garden blooms! It’s really as easy as that; your resulting seaweed potion will be packed full of potassium, nitrogen, and other micronutrients, all of which promote healthy root growth and overall plant vigour. It’ll also enhance soil structure, water retention, and microbial activity in the soil. Make the most of this natural, readily available resource if you can - your garden will thank you! If you don't have 8 weeks up your sleeve, or perhaps you don't live near a beach with plentiful seaweed, you can find some excellent organic seaweed fertilisers & tonics in our Organic Garden range. An important note; always ensure to check local regulations before harvesting seaweed from natural environments, as some areas may have restrictions or guidelines for collecting seaweed.

August: the last "official" month of winter! Spring is on the horizon. While there's still a decent amount of cold & wet weather ahead, we can start thinking about the busy growth seasons coming up. Read on for what to plant in August, some general maintenance tasks, and a reminder on refreshing your soil before spring.   WHAT TO PLANT THIS MONTH Plant strawberries if you haven’t done so already - get them in now so they get the benefits of the cold weather. For your established strawberry plants, remember to pinch out the first few flowers to let the plant become more established. This will set you up for a better harvest.   Plant rhubarb, and lift and divide any established crops. Start sprouting your seed potatoes; get these in by September at the latest if you want to harvest by Christmas. The following seeds can be sown now: kale, culiflower, cabbage, celery, beetroot, lettuce, broccoli, silverbeet, peas, carrots and spinach. These seedlings can be planted: spinach, cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce, leeks, and silverbeet. IN THE FLOWER GARDEN Plant summer flowering bulbs: dahlia (in frost protected areas), begonias, and gladioli. Add some bulb food to the soil as you plant them. Add a top dressing of bulb food to your spring flowering bulbs while you’re at it. New season roses are in store and can be planted! You can also plant hebes, violas, azaleas, lavender, rhododendrons, calendula. Hopefully you’ll be enjoying the first of your spring flowering bulbs; hyacinth, daffodils and tulips, depending on your location. OTHER TASKS TO DO IN AUGUST...   Protect your winter crops from fungal and bacterial diseases with some FreeFlo Copper. Continue to spray approx. once every 2 weeks. Use Enspray Oil to control sooty mold, mites, aphids and white fly on fruit and citrus trees. The oil smoothers pests & their eggs to protect your plants. A low toxic option for controlling pests. Give your established blueberries & strawberries a head start with some fruits & berries food. Now is a good time to fertilise the lawn, ready for spring growth over the next few months. Dig in your established cover crops. They’ll break down into the top layer of soil within a few weeks, adding valuable nutrients back into the soil. Plan your crops for the upcoming season! Spring is on the horizon, so now’s the time to sit down (we recommend with a nice cup of tea) and plan out what you want to grow, and where to plant it. This Five Year Record Book from the RHS is great for planning & recording.  REFRESHING YOUR SOIL FOR SPRING In order to get the most out of our gardens, whether that’s more flowers, bigger veggies, or increased resistance to pests and diseases - we need to feed and enrich our soil. The simplest and most effective way is to add organic matter. This can improve soil structure, nutrient content, and water-holding capacity, leading to more abundant growth. Prepare your garden for spring planting by digging in generous helpings of organic matter like compost, worm castings, sheep pellets, manure, leaf litter or lime. Dig your organic matter about 5cm into the top layer of soil to enrich it for the upcoming growth season.

We're shining the spotlight on Grosafe! Grosafe is a family owned kiwi business. Their range of organic products for both home gardeners and the horticultural industry, have become highly recommended staples in any gardener's kit. They have a strong emphasis on good quality fungicides, insecticides, and a range of seaweed fertilisers and foliar sprays. We talked to Robbie from Grosafe about what motivated the business, her best garden tips, and more.Q. What was the motivation behind Grosafe - how did you come into the business, and why?Grosafe was established in 1995 by my husband Mark Yortt as a post harvest operator with kiwifruit in Katikati. Mark had kiwifruit orchards and a pack house. Having a background in horticulture he was interested in finding products that would help a grower with his crop care and protection. Mark was also very keen to try and register products that could be BioGro certified but were also commercially viable and had good formulations. Grosafe now has over 15 BioGro products that we offer to growers.Q. What type of garden do you have: picking, productive, or a mixture?We live by the beach so we are limited on what we can grow at the beach with our sandy soils and harsh conditions, but we do have a large avocado orchard which supplies early fruit to the domestic market around New Zealand. We are harvesting avocados at the moment.Q. What are the most important things to do each season to maintain a healthy garden?Spring: Making sure plants are protected from insects and fungicide attacks before pests get established. Feed plants with good foliar and fertiliser feeds while they are going into bud burst, i.e. BioPower Seaweed Flakes and OceanFert are great natural stimulants. Summer: Close monitoring for insect pressure and keep plants healthy with watering. Autumn: Same for the spring and summer, monitoring and keeping the garden healthy with foliar foods, and insect and fungicide control.Winter: Good pruning and clean up sprays. The foundation of a healthy start to the growing season.Q. What is your go to garden tool you can't live without?For my vegetable garden it is Enspray 99 and BioNeem for insect control, and OceanFert the soil and BioPower Seaweed for foliar feeding.For my ornamental plants, GroVentive Garden.Q. One Grosafe product you think everyone should have in their kit?EnSpray 99 Insect OilQ. What’s the best piece of gardening advice you’ve been given, that you would like to share?Be proactive instead of reactive, i.e. don't wait to treat your garden for pests as once they are established it can be far more costly to get rid of the problem.Q. Favourite crops / veggies you’re planning to plant this year for summer?I love home grown tomatoes, and salad greensQ. Your go-to recipe in 2023?At this time of the year we love having dishes with avocados, mixed salad greens and seafood with zingy lime/lemon dressings.Quickfire Questions…Q. Favourite flower?LiliesQ. Favourite crop?AvocadoQ. Current favourite Instagram account to follow?@georgiewildingfloralQ. Top book recommendation?Benjamin Hall - SavedYou can view our Grosafe range here. 

You may have heard the term “no-dig gardening” being bandied about recently. Also known as “no-till” or “lasagne” gardening, this method is certainly becoming popular among garden enthusiasts and even farmers around the globe - and we can understand why. No-dig gardening is rooted in ecological principles and sustainable practices; but it also offers a host of practical benefits to the gardener, from less groundwork & maintenance, to healthier soil and reduced weed growth. If you’re curious about this method, and perhaps want to give it a go in your own garden, this guide is for you.What is it?As the name suggests, no-dig gardening involves growing plants without disturbing the existing soil structure. No digging or tilling required! Once you’ve set up your no-dig garden bed it can be left undisturbed (aside from planting new seeds & plants, and topping up the surface with mulch as it breaks down over time). Unlike traditional gardening methods that require turning the soil, no-dig gardening focuses on creating and nurturing healthy, biodiverse soil ecosystems through the layering of organic matter. This method mimics nature's way of composting, allowing the soil to develop naturally and sustainably.A few key benefits of no-dig gardening include…Enhanced Soil Health: Leaving your soil undisturbed allows beneficial soil organisms to thrive. Healthy soil structure creates the foundation for good microorganism and earthworm activity. The subsequent improved nutrient cycling and better water retention = more robust and productive plants.Reduced Weed Growth: By layering organic mulch or compost on top of the soil, no-dig gardening suppresses weed growth.Natural aeration & drainage: Microbes, earthworms & other beneficial bugs create tunnels in your soil, resulting in better aeration and drainage. Biodiversity: A more balanced ecosystem within your soil attracts beneficial insects and wildlife. This in turn helps control pests and diseases, reducing the need for chemical interventions.Slower nutrient release: As organic matter in your soil breaks down, essential nutrients are released to your plants. Digging into your soil increases the speed these nutrients are released. The no-dig method allows nutrients to be released naturally at a slower, steadier rate, which is better for plant growth.Sustainability: No-dig gardening reduces soil erosion, and increased water retention allows you to conserve water.All of this results in less manual intervention from you, and better plant growth, health & productivity.Get started with no-dig gardening Choose a sunny site (at least 6 hours of sunlight per day). Avoid areas prone to waterlogging or heavy shade. You can create your no-dig garden bed over grass, dirt, or even concrete. You can also use a raised bed or container. You’ll need to gather a range of organic materials: compost, straw, leaves, grass clippings, newspaper, twigs & branches, woodchips, aged manure, seaweed, coffee grounds, etc. You can use store-bought compost, but as always we recommend home-made compost if you have it, as it contains a broader range of nutrients. Clear any existing weeds or vegetation in your chosen area. If you’re creating your garden bed over lawn or dirt, use a thick layer of cardboard or several layers of newspaper to smother grass and weeds. Remember to wet it down with water before layering on your organic material in the next step. Spread a 10-15 cm layer of compost, well-rotted manure or wood chips over the cardboard / newspaper base. Top this with alternating layers of your organic matter - straw, leaves, grass clippings, more compost etc. (You can see why it’s also called the ‘lasagne’ method!). Water each layer as you build to encourage decomposition and settling. Top your no-dig garden bed with a generous layer of compost, and plant in your seeds / seedlings. Finish with some pea straw mulch around your plants. Over time, the layers in your garden bed will gradually break down and create a nutrient-rich growing medium. As this happens, you’ll notice the height will start to drop - keep it topped up with alternating layers of organic matter to keep the process going. Tips for maintaining Your no-dig garden Mulch, mulch, and more mulch! Mulching is going to replace digging. This is the key to successful no-dig gardening, and is how you enrich soil, suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Regularly add layers of mulch, including leaf litter, wood chips, straw, grass clippings and compost. Keep mulch pulled back from plant stems, especially seedlings. Rotate your crops each season to prevent nutrient depletion, and minimise the risk of disease and pests building up in the soil. Don’t overwater your garden. As your soil will retain more moisture, you won’t need to water as often - overwatering could cause the soil to compact down. Continue composting kitchen scraps and garden waste to maintain a steady supply of compost for your no-dig garden. Your organic waste is such a valuable resource - don’t throw it out, compost it yourself to make the most of all those nutrients! Images:Image1 by woodleywonderworks (licensed under CC BY 2.0.)Image 2 & 3 by Samuel Mann (licensed under CC BY 2.0.)Image 3 by hardworkinghippy : La Ferme de Sourrou (licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0.)

Curious about gardening by the moon? We’re delving into this ancient practice many gardeners have used for centuries. Gardening by the moon is rooted in the belief that the moon's phases and positions influence various aspects of plant life. It is said that the moon, with its gravitational pull, can affect the moisture content of the soil and even the sap flow within plants. By working in harmony with these celestial forces, gardeners hope for bountiful harvests, thriving flowers, and healthy, robust plants. Gardening by the moon can be looked at as both a science and an art, blending ancient wisdom with modern horticultural practices. While some may approach it with deep-rooted beliefs and traditions, others see it as a way to tune in to the natural rhythms of the Earth and find harmony in their gardens. Read on to find out some practical tips and handy resources for this interesting gardening technique. Katrina, the Compost Coach behind Blue Borage, has generously shared her knowledge & top resource recommendations for getting started with gardening by the moon: Who wants their gardening to be a little easier, plants healthier, without spending quite so much money on all sorts of remedies? It was the combination of ease, productivity, plant health and cost savings that drew me towards gardening by the moon. That, along with the experience of visiting a friend's biodynamic garden and asking what made everything feel so full of life. Imagine feeling like the garden is quite literally growing itself? Here are some practical tips for home gardeners: Planting and transplanting in the descendig moon phase means there is less transplant shock, and therefore less follow-up care is needed. Use that time you've saved to enjoy cooking a favourite meal from scratch, or creating a beautiful trellis for your summer vegetables to climb up when the weather warms up. Sowing seeds in the ascending moon phase tends to give better results - consider the simple math that when more seeds germinate and thrive, then fewer packets of seeds are needed to fill the garden each season, with progressively less fuss and bother as healthy plants then start to self-seed and the garden quite literally grows itself. A nice thing to do for your fruit trees over winter (in a Descending moon period) is to apply a tree paste. You'll find lots of different recipes online, but I like the book 'Biodynamic Gardening' by Weleda for a thorough step-by-step guide. It's a bit like giving your beloved fruit trees a spa day, which can help prevent fungal issues. Here's a fun tip to experiment with your pruning (and even with your lawn mowing): if you want to encourage fresh growth, make your cuts in the waxing moon phase, but if you want to discourage fresh growth, then cut when the light is decreasing in the waning moon. Before following advice from a moon calendar, check in with your own energy levels – do you have energy to give to the garden today, or is it more a case of just enjoying the space, and getting energy back? This can be a reciprocal exchange that develops over time. Biodynamic moon calendars Here are the two calendars I use: Biodynamic Association of New Zealand The Astro Calendar by Brian Keats (Australian times) Biodynamics is going a bit deeper, adding in a few more layers of different rhythms, and a few more planets. For me, the main difference is taking into consideration the ascending and descending cycles of the moon, as well as the waxing and waning. Skeptics might look at all the details and say 'why bother?' These people will find the majority of home gardeners and commercial growers agree. It takes a special sort of gardener to want to synchronise with natural rhythms, it's often someone who is inclined to treat their plants like pets, who likes to make sure the water isn't too hot or too cold when watering their garden, and who asks permission before pruning. A sensitive gardener. On a commercial scale, biodynamic growers and winemakers tend to be not just sensitive, but also dedicated to improving the health of the soil in a very objective, measurable and scientific manner, while also growing the highest quality of food possible. These are people who simply have to develop an acute awareness of weather patterns and learn to respond quickly to subtle nuances that indicate early signs of plant stress, pest pressure or the onset of disease in the sense of 'dis-ease', or the opposite of optimal health. You could almost call it sacred agriculture, and many call it cosmic agriculture. You may not see yourself as a sensitive gardener, but perhaps you want the healthiest soil possible, with the most nutritious vegetables, plants with greater tolerance of drought (or floods), that are naturally resilient to pests and disease. These motivations are just as valid. As we all gradually lessen the load of toxic chemicals in our food and our soil, we will all need to explore natural support systems – including the moon's cycles. Which approach to follow? There are lots of methods, with lots of commonalities between them, but as is often the case with holistic wellbeing, it can seem like you have to choose the 'right' one. I recommend you test out a few of them for a year or so, and if you have the headspace, then find a way to blend multiple approaches. For women who menstruate, layering your personal cycle into your garden planning is a really sensible step towards efficient use of fluctuating energy levels. Maramataka: Here in Aotearoa New Zealand it makes sense to learn to follow the seasonal markers that helped the people of this land grow food long before industrial agriculture came here. Tuhi Stationery: My favourite bilingual diary. Tuhi include a Maramataka guide with each calendar they send out. Living by the stars: He's active on the 'Living by the stars' Facebook page, and has an impressive wall planner. Professor Rangi Matamua has won numerous awards for his work. He's got a really fun video teaching the hand gestures for all 29 phases of the moon. Maramataka Māori: Heeni Hoterene shows the wider context of Maramataka – it's so much more than just gardening and fishing, but something that can be used by businesses and large organisations to foster wellbeing at work and in the community. There's a wall planner so you can see at a glance where the moon is at, on any day. Due to regional and iwi variations, it's wise to go find a local person to teach you the local version of the Maramataka. There are plenty of people teaching this, please invest in their resources so they can continue to develop this work. Other perspectives Moon clock If you're looking for a simple way to begin aligning tasks with the waxing and waning cycles of the moon then this is a “gardening by the moon” clock from Gubba. Moon wheel Similar to the clock, this is another simple looking tool: you simply turn the dial to align the date with the phase of the moon, and you have a cycle of tasks that suit the waxing and waning moon cycles. Koanga Institute This is one of the most thorough guides I've seen, and informs thousands of homesteads and gardens around the country. Final advice Your garden is unique, your taste in food, flowers, shrubs, trees, and garden decor is also unique. There's a risk in following a lunar calendar that you start to take on someone elseʼs ideas of what should be done each season. Trust your instincts, tune into your garden, and let the plants, the soil, and the surrounding wildlife tell you what's most important. Blue Borage offers the following guidance... A free monthly overview of the biodynamic moon calendar on YouTube here. A handy download here to list the tasks you have ahead this month, and then find the best times for just those tasks - let's keep things practical and simple. Consulting service to make a plan unique to your space. Book a free diagnostic call here to see if we are a good fit for each other. The 12 month 'DIY Almanac' programme to help you create a comprehensive garden planner that also tells a story of what matters most to you, an heirloom to pass on to future generations. Click here.

Companion planting is an age-old practice that can help you to create a flourishing, resilient garden ecosystem. If you're looking to optimise space and enjoy benefits such as enhanced nutrient uptake, better pollination, and natural pest control, companion planting is absolutely a technique worth exploring.The main idea behind companion planting is to foster mutually beneficial relationships between plants, by strategically planting different species in close proximity to one another. By mimicking natural ecosystems, we can create a diverse and balanced environment that supports the overall well-being of your garden. We’ve listed some key benefits below, along with 10 easy companion planting pairs you can try to get you started!What are the benefits?Pest Management: One of the key advantages of companion planting is natural pest control. Certain plants emit chemical compounds that repel pests, while others attract beneficial insects that prey on garden pests. By interplanting compatible species, you can minimise the need for harmful pesticides and maintain a healthier garden ecosystem.Improved Pollination: Some plants rely on pollinators, such as bees and butterflies, to produce fruits or seeds. By growing flowers and plants that attract pollinators near your vegetable or fruit-bearing plants, you increase the chances of successful pollination and subsequently enhance crop yields.Nutrient Enhancement: Companion plants can work together to improve nutrient absorption and soil health. For instance, legumes, such as beans and peas, have the ability to fix nitrogen in the soil, benefiting neighboring plants that require nitrogen for growth. Additionally, certain plants act as "dynamic accumulators," drawing up nutrients from deeper soil layers and making them available to shallow-rooted plants nearby.Weed Suppression: Intercropping compatible plant species can help suppress weed growth by providing shade, reducing soil erosion, and competing for resources like sunlight, water, and nutrients. Maximising Space: Companion planting allows you to make the most of limited garden space. Optimise your garden's productivity by selecting plant combinations that grow well together.Here are some easy companion planting combinations to try in your garden...Tomato and Basil: Tomatoes and basil make a classic companion planting pair. Basil acts as a natural insect repellent, protecting tomatoes from pests like aphids and whiteflies. Plus the aromatic foliage of basil can enhance the flavor of tomatoes when used in the kitchen!Carrots and Onions: Planting carrots and onions together is a win-win situation. Onions help repel carrot rust flies, while carrots deter onion flies. This interplanting is also a great way to utilise space efficiently in your garden.Cucumber and Radish: Cucumbers are known for their sprawling nature, while radishes are quick-growing and occupy less space. Planting radishes alongside cucumbers not only helps deter common cucumber pests, but also serves as an indicator for cucumber diseases. If the radishes show signs of infection, you can take preventive measures to protect your cucumbers.Roses and Parsley: This unexpected combination comes with loads of benefits (and surprisingly, they can look quite good together too!). Parsley deters pests such as aphids and beetles. And as an added bonus, some say parsley can even enhance the fragrance of your roses.Beans and Corn: The combination of beans and corn is a classic example of the "Three Sisters" planting technique used by Native Americans (with the third "sister" crop being pumpkin or squash). Beans climb the sturdy corn stalks for support, while the beans' nitrogen-fixing abilities bring benefits to the corn.Squash and Nasturtium: Nasturtiums are excellent companions for squash plants. They act as a natural pest repellent, deterring squash bugs and other harmful insects. The bright flowers of nasturtiums also attract pollinators, benefiting both plants.Lettuce and Chives: Planting chives alongside lettuce not only adds flavor to your salads but also helps deter pests. Chives repel aphids, carrot flies, and other common lettuce pests. Additionally, the upright growth of chives provides some shade for the lettuce, preventing it from going to seed in hot weather.Spinach and Strawberries: Pairing spinach with strawberries is a great way to maximise space and soil fertility. The sprawling nature of strawberry plants acts as a living mulch, shading the soil and suppressing weed growth around the spinach. In return, the spinach's dense foliage protects the strawberries' shallow roots and helps retain soil moisture.Cabbage and Dill: Planting dill near cabbage family plants, such as broccoli, cabbage, or kale, can attract beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings. These insects prey on pests like aphids and cabbage worms, reducing the need for chemical interventions. Just be sure to keep dill away from carrots, as they may negatively affect each other's growth.Eggplant and Calendula: Calendula is a great companion for eggplants. The vibrant flowers of calendula attract pollinators while also repelling aphids and nematodes. These pests are common problems for eggplants, making calendula a valuable ally in promoting healthy eggplant growth.Companion planting is a simple, practical technique that you can delve into endlessly. By understanding the benefits of companion planting and experimenting with plant combinations, you can enhance pest management, improve pollination, optimise space, and boost overall plant health. Whether you're a seasoned green-thumb or just starting out, companion planting offers a sustainable and natural way to nurture your plants and optimise your harvest. We’d definitely recommend giving it a go!

They are a favourite flower of many and for good reason. With some care and strategic pruning, a rose bush will reward you with bloom after bloom year after year.Winter cleanupThere are a number of pests and diseases that can affect roses and the old saying ‘a pinch of prevention is worth a pound of cure’ is as true now as it was then. Garden hygiene plays an important role in prevention. Picking up the affected leaves once they have dropped or even better, picking them off the plant at the first sign can prevent reinfection the next growing season or stop an infection or infestation spreading.For deciduous trees and shrubs – like roses – winter dormancy when the leaves are dropped, gives us an opportunity to get rid of any overwintering pests or disease spores that may be lingering. Scale, fungal spores and insect eggs are the main culprits we are targeting with winter sprays.Lime Sulphur is useful if your roses are refusing to drop their leaves and go dormant. Be warned it is messy and smelly and you have to take care to avoid getting it on any surrounding evergreen plants as it works by burning. It’s very important to apply it 2-3 weeks before or after any other sprays as it can react with other spray residue and cause damage.The standard winter sprays are a mineral spraying oil and a copper fungicide. The oil smothers any scale and insect eggs still present and the copper kills any fungal spores and acts as a protectant, especially following pruning. In the past, it was recommended to mix and apply the two sprays together but current best practice is to spray them separately, 1 week apart.Reapply once a month from June – August.PruningIt’s best to give your roses a prune after they are completely dormant, so we recommend to carry it out in July – mid AugustBefore you start pruning – run through your checklist:Is it a sunny dry day (a day that you would hang out your washing is a good indicator!) -It’s really important to avoid damp, overcast days because the cuts won’t seal and disease is more likely to enter through the wounds.Are your secateurs clean and sharp? Starting with sharp secateurs and resharpening as you go will make the job much easier on you and clean cuts will heal faster.Do you have some gloves and arm protection? Rose thorns can cause damage and infection so please cover up.When it’s time to prune – it can be hard to know where to start! For bush roses and standard roses:Start with the 3 D’s -dead, damaged or diseased branches.Once you have removed all of those, look at the overall structure. You are aiming for an open vase shape where plenty of light can get into the middle. Aim to remove any weak or spindly branches and any branches that cross over other branches. Aim to reduce the overall height of the bush by one third. Cut your remaining branches back to a viable bud that is outward facing. When you cut, make them at a 45 degree angle just above the bud. Ideally the bottom of the angled cut should be level with the top of the bud and angled away from the bud.If you are cutting any branches thicker than a pencil, we recommend that you apply a pruning paste to seal the cut.For climbing roses:Remove the 3-D's, the weak and spindly and the crossing branches. The aim is always to get the branches to run as horizontal as possible as the rose will produce flowers right along the length of the stem, rather than just at the tip.After pruning apply a copper spray to help seal and protect the cuts.When the rose starts to come into leaf, apply a rose spray to protect the soft young foliage from aphids and Black spot. This can be applied as a preventative regularly through the growing season or as a treatment at the first sign of pest or disease.Good healthA healthy rose is less likely to be infected by fungal diseases and insects. These will often arrive when a plant is stressed. Environmental stresses include too much or too little water and food so choose a slow release food that is appropriate for a flowering plant (these will have a higher K or potassium level than a general fert) that will provide a small dose of food regularly and ensure you follow instructions for when to reapply.If you have an irrigation system, it is better to water deeply two or three times a week than a small amount every day. Choose an irrigation system that directs the water onto the surrounding soil rather than over the foliage. Spread mulch around the rose to help prevent moisture loss. Utilise products like liquid seaweed or kelp pellets to help improve the health of the rose plant and the soil it grows in. These should be used in conjunction with food, not as a replacement for it.When a rose is in bloom, remove the spent blooms regularly to encourage more flowers to form.Keep your rose happy and healthy and it can live for many years, providing blooms for you to enjoy.Written for Gubba by Kelly Jean Reyland of Garden Advice NZwww.gardenadvice.co.nz